Blend Door Actuator
- Thread starter slaboda
- Start date
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flying_mofo
Member
Motorcraft Part #
Thanks mdall1979. I saw your post and followed your directions. They were very easy to follow. I thought I would be prepared for the change and pre-ordered the part... It turns out that I ordered the wrong part, which I didn't find out until I had the dash apart. Luckily, the local Ford dealership had the part in stock. For anyone who is interested, the Motorcraft part # is YH-1777. I also liked your input to tie off the wrench, I was able to use dental floss.
Thanks mdall1979. I saw your post and followed your directions. They were very easy to follow. I thought I would be prepared for the change and pre-ordered the part... It turns out that I ordered the wrong part, which I didn't find out until I had the dash apart. Luckily, the local Ford dealership had the part in stock. For anyone who is interested, the Motorcraft part # is YH-1777. I also liked your input to tie off the wrench, I was able to use dental floss.
mattdogg02
New Member
First, I've got a 2007 Expedition without dual zone air.
I've had the clicking blend door for a couple days now and just got a chance to check on it. I pulled everything out and found the actuator referenced here, but I believe its to control the heat/cool blend, not the upper/middle/lower blend door. The one changed here was not broken for me, and I think I need to change the other one. Does anyone have a link to that one? I'm afraid its going to require alot more work.
I've had the clicking blend door for a couple days now and just got a chance to check on it. I pulled everything out and found the actuator referenced here, but I believe its to control the heat/cool blend, not the upper/middle/lower blend door. The one changed here was not broken for me, and I think I need to change the other one. Does anyone have a link to that one? I'm afraid its going to require alot more work.
mattdogg02
New Member
Just a follow up (as I hate dead end search results), I found that you can access the floor/defrost blend door from under the driver side, just have to reach up and undo the 2 screws holding it in. Wasn't hard, and saved a bunch over the dealership doing it I'm sure.
babycakes311
Member
Wife's 07 EL Limited passenger side was stuck on hot. Not very good with black interior now that the weather is finally warmer here. Took it by a dealer, diagnosis was bad blend door actuator. Part was only $40, but they wanted 8 hours labor to replace. Had to be an easier way.
Did some searching and found this thread. Ordered the part, had it here next day. Trim and radio came right out. Removing the actuator was pretty easy. Had to get creative removing the back bolt, but well worth it saving 8 hours labor @$100.
Big "Thanks" to all that have contributed to this thread!!! Saved me a bunch!!!
The other actuator on the left side has been "clicking" when moving from defrost to panel to floor. Looking up under dash on the drivers side, I can see the actuator. Shouldn't be too hard to replace without pulling the dash like the dealer would do. Still seems to work fine, just a little clicking noise. Think I will let it go until it doesn't work anymore.
Thanks again to all for contributing to this thread!!!!!
Did some searching and found this thread. Ordered the part, had it here next day. Trim and radio came right out. Removing the actuator was pretty easy. Had to get creative removing the back bolt, but well worth it saving 8 hours labor @$100.
Big "Thanks" to all that have contributed to this thread!!! Saved me a bunch!!!
The other actuator on the left side has been "clicking" when moving from defrost to panel to floor. Looking up under dash on the drivers side, I can see the actuator. Shouldn't be too hard to replace without pulling the dash like the dealer would do. Still seems to work fine, just a little clicking noise. Think I will let it go until it doesn't work anymore.
Thanks again to all for contributing to this thread!!!!!
Great post. I just opened my dash using your instruction and have confirmed this is the part where the clicking comes.
Two things:
The zoomed in view of the motor assembly is actually to the right of the opening.
I'll be buying the part rather than the rebuild and I just want it done.
Thanks for the pics
Two things:
The zoomed in view of the motor assembly is actually to the right of the opening.
I'll be buying the part rather than the rebuild and I just want it done.
Thanks for the pics
Holy cow, I'm pumped.
So, here's what I did...
I pulled the radio panel and radio out to make sure I could, then I confirmed the culprit of the clicking.
I then put it back together and ordered the part as mentioned earlier.
I just completed the project, 40 minutes, with my dad talking the whole time.
[I'm not a mechanic]
Reiteration #1: tie something to your tools.
I used an 8mm socket for the front screw and an 8mm box end for the back screw.
The back screw is the challenge.
Tip #1: open you glove box. Empty it. Push in on the sides and it will open to the floor. This gives you a second angle to the damn screw, and you can get both arms in to do the magic.
Tip #2: when pulling the cable plug from the motor, there is a red clip at the top that comes out completely, don't drop it. Then the plug wiggled out.
Tip #3: the shaft that goes into the thingy will probably be off kilter of your new replacement. Just lightly set the new motor on top and twist until is settles in, the twist to line up the screw holes.
So, here's what I did...
I pulled the radio panel and radio out to make sure I could, then I confirmed the culprit of the clicking.
I then put it back together and ordered the part as mentioned earlier.
I just completed the project, 40 minutes, with my dad talking the whole time.
[I'm not a mechanic]
Reiteration #1: tie something to your tools.
I used an 8mm socket for the front screw and an 8mm box end for the back screw.
The back screw is the challenge.
Tip #1: open you glove box. Empty it. Push in on the sides and it will open to the floor. This gives you a second angle to the damn screw, and you can get both arms in to do the magic.
Tip #2: when pulling the cable plug from the motor, there is a red clip at the top that comes out completely, don't drop it. Then the plug wiggled out.
Tip #3: the shaft that goes into the thingy will probably be off kilter of your new replacement. Just lightly set the new motor on top and twist until is settles in, the twist to line up the screw holes.
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2010ExpyEL
New Member
Hey folks. We bought our 2010 Expy in 2012 from a dealer in Little Rock. They paid to have the actuator replaced for the passenger side because it would not blow cold air in the 100+ degree weather we had then. Now, this year, my driver side HEAT does not work. I have read multiple threads and there are several different responses. Some said that there are 2 actuators, one for each side, and others said there was only the one actuator. My Limited has dual climate control, so I will have to assume that there is 1 for each side. I have yet to find where the driver's side actuator is. I did remove the guage cluster and did not find anything back there. Have removed the radio and found the actuator that I think is for the passenger side. Can clearly see the actuator that changes from floor to mid to defrost and it functions properly. Just no heat on driver side. Wife hates driving it when it is cold outside. I need to get it fixed, because "if momma ain't happy, ain't nobody happy" if you get my drift. Any help appreciated.
Blend Door Actuator: Sometimes no fix is all that is needed...
I had the same issue -2007 XLT with the rotary controls. Without any drama it suddenly stopped heating from the front. I had a '97 that had the same issue so suspected the blend door was not being properly repositioned.
Troubleshooting tips: warm up the car (after checking for low low coolant) - check heater hoses coming out of the firewall - both should be warm to hot to the touch - to rule out issues with the heater core. IF you have rear air - check for rear heat. If not heater core, and rear heat works, pretty sure that there is an issue with either the blend door itself or the actuator motor.
Follow the directions earlier in this thread to get to the actuator motor. Took me less than 15 minutes to have everything out and verify that when rotating the control knob there was no vibration or motion out of the actuator. Two bolts out (take care for the back bolt, use the glove box entrance to help) and the actuator pops right off.
Then it began to work. Either the motor was locked up, or perhaps the door was stuck, either way, it was now fully functional - ie when rotating the temperature knob, the plastic spline extending out of the actuator assembly rotated in both directions. I manually rotated the blend door gear to make sure that it was loose - it was. Reassembled the actuator to the door, replaced the bolts, and checked for function - now I was back in business and could control hot vs cold -
Now I had something that i did not have before - the dreaded click click click when rotating the knob all the way to cold - However, realized that the door was now out of calibration, so I performed the calibration process: remove the climate control fuze from the fuze box in the passenger leg area - it was number 15 in mine - for at least a minute - while the ignition was off. Replace the fuze and turn the ignition to on (no need to start the car) . I could hear the actuator rotating stop to stop and calibrating the proper position. Took about 30 seconds. No more click click click. Cancelled my order for a new actuator, and will ride with the "no fix" until it happens again.
Hope this is helpful.
I had the same issue -2007 XLT with the rotary controls. Without any drama it suddenly stopped heating from the front. I had a '97 that had the same issue so suspected the blend door was not being properly repositioned.
Troubleshooting tips: warm up the car (after checking for low low coolant) - check heater hoses coming out of the firewall - both should be warm to hot to the touch - to rule out issues with the heater core. IF you have rear air - check for rear heat. If not heater core, and rear heat works, pretty sure that there is an issue with either the blend door itself or the actuator motor.
Follow the directions earlier in this thread to get to the actuator motor. Took me less than 15 minutes to have everything out and verify that when rotating the control knob there was no vibration or motion out of the actuator. Two bolts out (take care for the back bolt, use the glove box entrance to help) and the actuator pops right off.
Then it began to work. Either the motor was locked up, or perhaps the door was stuck, either way, it was now fully functional - ie when rotating the temperature knob, the plastic spline extending out of the actuator assembly rotated in both directions. I manually rotated the blend door gear to make sure that it was loose - it was. Reassembled the actuator to the door, replaced the bolts, and checked for function - now I was back in business and could control hot vs cold -
Now I had something that i did not have before - the dreaded click click click when rotating the knob all the way to cold - However, realized that the door was now out of calibration, so I performed the calibration process: remove the climate control fuze from the fuze box in the passenger leg area - it was number 15 in mine - for at least a minute - while the ignition was off. Replace the fuze and turn the ignition to on (no need to start the car) . I could hear the actuator rotating stop to stop and calibrating the proper position. Took about 30 seconds. No more click click click. Cancelled my order for a new actuator, and will ride with the "no fix" until it happens again.
Hope this is helpful.
BigDaddy747
Member
Any luck with the drivers side hot cold blend door actuator?
Mine is shot now.
Thanks in advance
Ryan
2010ExpyEL
New Member
I was successful in replacing the driver side Blend Door Actuator. I went to the local Ford dealership and asked for a printout on the AC stuff under the dash. The printout they gave me did NOT include the driver side blend door actuator. So, I asked for a printout of the 2010 F150 AC stuff. Lo and behold, there it was, on the bottom of the printout, just mere millimeters from the floor.
I also found a video of an F150 driver side actuator being replaced. It can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5xvlbiaxF4
I did not use the all the exact instructions, but you can get the idea from watching the video. It really wasn't too terribly difficult. I did have to cut the top of the duct work that goes to the back of the truck, just to get the new motor put back in, but it did not affect the heating/cooling in the truck as I only cut the edge of the duct work. Also, as stated in the video, the electrical connector is a PITA to reconnect.
You should be able to accomplish this with a little help. Me and my buddy did it in about an hour and 15.
I also found a video of an F150 driver side actuator being replaced. It can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5xvlbiaxF4
I did not use the all the exact instructions, but you can get the idea from watching the video. It really wasn't too terribly difficult. I did have to cut the top of the duct work that goes to the back of the truck, just to get the new motor put back in, but it did not affect the heating/cooling in the truck as I only cut the edge of the duct work. Also, as stated in the video, the electrical connector is a PITA to reconnect.
You should be able to accomplish this with a little help. Me and my buddy did it in about an hour and 15.
CobraR77
New Member
Wow, this sounds promising. Going to order the part and give it a shot.
We've been dealing with constant heat on the driver side of our Expedition for a while now. Certainly not comfortable in San Antonio.
Thanks for posting.
BigDaddy747
Member
I was able to do it also. I cut the floor duct also. No problems with the wire. Except next time (if there is a next time) because I broke the red clip off in the connector.
Took me 3 hrs by my self with a little extra work as I nicked the spline on the door taking the old one out and had to file it for the new one to fit (had to use a mirror that was fun).
Took me 3 hrs by my self with a little extra work as I nicked the spline on the door taking the old one out and had to file it for the new one to fit (had to use a mirror that was fun).
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Matthew Jorgensen
New Member
This is a great thread... Anyone tackle the rear actuators yet?
2003XLT. I reached in and unplugged both of them. Problem solved.
Heck, I don't even have seats back there anymore. Don't need A/C or HEAT.
The Expy is kind of like a covered short bed pickup now.
LovesTexas
Member
I love this post and the photos make it easy to follow, spoken as a 58 year old woman. As it turned out, my actuator was working fine, which allowed me to move on to the blower itself. Somehow a small plastic bag got sucked up and was blocking where the blower pushed air through. Freak event.
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