Brake pads for towing
- Thread starter Spades
- Start date
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bring_em_on
Well-Known Member
before you do an upgrade on your expy, do you have trailer brakes? I pull a 22ft boat weighing 5000 lbs with trailer and on normal stops, I think it stops easier than when not towing.
I second the trailer brakes. I have been towing a 6000 lb trailer/boat combo for 3 years, and I still have decent thickness on the original pads at 65000 miles.
Ok, then it would be beneficial for an upgrade. Basically any performance pad would help. Usually a softer compound helps stop quicker, but pad wear suffers. EBC makes a decent pad. Might consider a package deal with new slotted rotors. The slots will dissipate the gasses better and prevent pad float on the rotor when stopping, thus decreasing stopping distance. I know a company called Rotorpros does package deals for F150's, Expys, Explorers, etc. Might try them.
bring_em_on
Well-Known Member
The slotted rotors are your best bet. I've heard great things about the Carquest Red and Blue pads but I've not used them.
Adding surge brakes to your trailer is relatively cheap. You can get a kit from Eastern Marine. You're Expedition will thank you for it.
http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/trailerbrakes/
Adding surge brakes to your trailer is relatively cheap. You can get a kit from Eastern Marine. You're Expedition will thank you for it.
http://www.easternmarine.com/em_store/trailerbrakes/
Canadian Expy
Full Access Members
I run hawk pads on mine,with baer rear rotors and power slots in the front.
It stops way better than stock. It has no problems when towing my boat even in the heavy stop and go cottage traffic. The biggest difference is when you really get on them,you can actually feel the difference. I got about 3yrs out of my first set of front pads and rotors.
It stops way better than stock. It has no problems when towing my boat even in the heavy stop and go cottage traffic. The biggest difference is when you really get on them,you can actually feel the difference. I got about 3yrs out of my first set of front pads and rotors.
KWT2000
Full Access Members
you need trailer brakes/ i have surge brakes on my boat trailer and like said it.stops easier with the boat than with out... for sure go.with drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads and you should be good to go
Poppa Wheelie
Full Access Members
Aren't surge brakes different than regular electric trailer brakes? I thought surge brakes are for if your trailer somehow becomes un-hitched. To run true trailer brakes, you need a 7 pin hookup with a brake controller. Which I have and use for my toy hauler. I would not tow it without the trailer brakes.
Also, downshifting can really help if done within reason. Especially on long downhills. I have gone down some long mountain passes with 2nd gear holding me back all the way down.
Also, downshifting can really help if done within reason. Especially on long downhills. I have gone down some long mountain passes with 2nd gear holding me back all the way down.
Surge brakes are activated by a sliding coupler. When you hit the brakes the trailer's momentum will move the coupler forward activating the trailer brakes. The harder you stop, the more the trailer brakes activate. Most boat trailers have surge brakes, at least for heavier boats.
Do not get cross-drilled brakes for towing purposes. The are meant for performance driving and not everyday use. All the holes will do is cause hairline cracks in the rotor if used for daily driving.
Do not get cross-drilled brakes for towing purposes. The are meant for performance driving and not everyday use. All the holes will do is cause hairline cracks in the rotor if used for daily driving.
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Canadian Expy
Full Access Members
I've driven on cross-drilled rotors for towing and daily driving ..never had cracks ever... I think the cracks are on cheaper cross-drilled rotors. You get what you pay for.
Poppa Wheelie
Full Access Members
I must be thinking of the ones that have that cable that hooks with the safety chain. If the trailer breaks loose, it yanks that cable and activates the brakes. My bad. 
Also, as far as drilled rotors go, it's how they're manufactured that makes the difference in durability. If the rotors are cast with holes, they should stand up better to abuse. If they are solid rotors with holes drilled in them, they will develop stress risers around the holes. Unless the holes are chamfered, then the stress forces tend to go around the holes, and stay in the meat of the metal.
Also, as far as drilled rotors go, it's how they're manufactured that makes the difference in durability. If the rotors are cast with holes, they should stand up better to abuse. If they are solid rotors with holes drilled in them, they will develop stress risers around the holes. Unless the holes are chamfered, then the stress forces tend to go around the holes, and stay in the meat of the metal.
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bobthegod
Active Member
Your Expi is not made to tow without the trailer having brakes. Stock brakes can only handle up to 1000 lbs of extra towing weight. Most states have laws concerning towed vehicle and brake requirments. I assume your in Riverside, California (Im in Calif also) and we have a law that says anything over 1000 lbs MUST HAVE brakes. So look into surge brakes as most boat trailers use those and they perform very well. Most other camping trailers have electric. Boats aren't good with electric since the when back into water....smash, boom, bang....electric shorts out.
KWT2000
Full Access Members
federal law states any single axel weighing more than 2999 lbs must have trailer brakes/ any tandem axel trailer must have at least 1 axel with brakes and any tridem axel trailer must have atleast 2 axels with brakes 4 axels or more all axels must have brakes
06EXP
Full Access Members
I would highly suggest looking at www.ebcbrakes.com and their Yellowstuff Pads and Ultimax Rotors.
aircargoo
Full Access Members
i bought best HAWK pads out all around....and yes"...there better then stock when you really get on them.
id get BEST pads out there and change them EVERY season u run that boat on the back of that truck.
i carried 15 bags of cement at 80lbs each.....i felt that on brakes. if your not getting trailer brakes....just look ahead and be carefull....big difference w/boat.
lol...i towed a 17 foot bowrider (90 regal inboard/outboard) with a 89 iroc z.....took it well. orlando to miami.....i did brakes 2 times on that car in 1 yr 2b safe.
(((hiya "stoned06" ))))....u ever get rear lifted on your truck....was curious. i asked u this b4.....always love that pic
id get BEST pads out there and change them EVERY season u run that boat on the back of that truck.
i carried 15 bags of cement at 80lbs each.....i felt that on brakes. if your not getting trailer brakes....just look ahead and be carefull....big difference w/boat.
lol..
.i towed a 17 foot bowrider (90 regal inboard/outboard) with a 89 iroc z.....took it well. orlando to miami.....i did brakes 2 times on that car in 1 yr 2b safe.(((hiya "stoned06" ))))....u ever get rear lifted on your truck....was curious. i asked u this b4.....always love that pic
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Never "lifted" the rear, but I moved the trailer axles forward 9 inches, and the boat back about 3 inches. Found out I was WAAAY heavy on the tongue (850 lbs). Should be around 600 now, but the shop hasn't re-weighed it yet. Doesn't matter, I can't move the axles any further forward due to the swivel bunk location.....they are BARELY missing the front axle of the trailer.
aircargoo
Full Access Members
yea....now that im analizing pic....the boat does look to far forward.
good idea moving axles...
good idea moving axles...
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