brakes
- Thread starter icegrill
- Start date
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rwinch
Full Access Members
A little more info is needed!!!
- Did you just change the pads, or did you change the calipers?
- Did you get the rotors resurfaced?
- Was it spongy before you changed things?
- When was the last time you changed the brake fluid?
- How do the brake lines (rubber) look?
So, not knowing the above, I will give you MY view of a brake change, assuming I don't have to remove the calipers (open up the brake system).
- I try to do all corners at the same time. Excessive, maybe, since the rears do not wear as much, but it gets you into everything so that it can be checked out.
- Rule 1 - ALWAYS resurface the rotors when you change the pads
- Since you are following Rule 1, remember the parking brakes are actually small drum brakes in the rear. Go over them since the rotors are off, adjust, lube and replace the shoes if necessary.
- Consider ceramic pads to keep the oft talked about brake dust problem down to a minimum.
- inspect all rubber brake lines.
- The rotors are often hard to remove. When you reassemble, apply a good coat of anti-sieze compount on the seating surfaces to make the next time MUCH easier.
- clean everything up and reassemble
- Now, replace brake fluid. Brake fluid ages, and the rubber components seem to break down a little giving the fluid a grey/black look. Check out your brake fluid reservoir.....is it nice and clear or black looking??? You can do this yourself or bring it to a shop to have them power flush it. If you do it your self, there are several kits made to help you, or simply get a buddy and some beer and start at the rear most corner (passenger rear) and bleed the system at each corner until you have clear fluid coming out. I won't go into the mechanics of how to bleed properly unless you need me to....
BTW - If they still feel spongy after this, you may have some trapper air, etc. in the 4WABS master valve, which from what I have read needs to be hooked up to professional equipment (NGS Tester) to get the air out.
Hope this helps.
- Did you just change the pads, or did you change the calipers?
- Did you get the rotors resurfaced?
- Was it spongy before you changed things?
- When was the last time you changed the brake fluid?
- How do the brake lines (rubber) look?
So, not knowing the above, I will give you MY view of a brake change, assuming I don't have to remove the calipers (open up the brake system).
- I try to do all corners at the same time. Excessive, maybe, since the rears do not wear as much, but it gets you into everything so that it can be checked out.
- Rule 1 - ALWAYS resurface the rotors when you change the pads
- Since you are following Rule 1, remember the parking brakes are actually small drum brakes in the rear. Go over them since the rotors are off, adjust, lube and replace the shoes if necessary.
- Consider ceramic pads to keep the oft talked about brake dust problem down to a minimum.
- inspect all rubber brake lines.
- The rotors are often hard to remove. When you reassemble, apply a good coat of anti-sieze compount on the seating surfaces to make the next time MUCH easier.
- clean everything up and reassemble
- Now, replace brake fluid. Brake fluid ages, and the rubber components seem to break down a little giving the fluid a grey/black look. Check out your brake fluid reservoir.....is it nice and clear or black looking??? You can do this yourself or bring it to a shop to have them power flush it. If you do it your self, there are several kits made to help you, or simply get a buddy and some beer and start at the rear most corner (passenger rear) and bleed the system at each corner until you have clear fluid coming out. I won't go into the mechanics of how to bleed properly unless you need me to....
BTW - If they still feel spongy after this, you may have some trapper air, etc. in the 4WABS master valve, which from what I have read needs to be hooked up to professional equipment (NGS Tester) to get the air out.
Hope this helps.
Thanx rwinch, sorry i didn't clarify the problem . I just changed the pads (ceramic). I'll take your advice and changed the fluid; i never thought about changing the fluid at all, usually i just top it off, and yes it is a dark color. I'll be sure to get my rotors resurfaced when i have the time..thanx again man.
monsta
Full Access Members
Ceramics take a bit longer to break in. How did you break in your pads?
How do you go about re-surfacing rotors. Is it as simple as dropping them off to a brake shop and picking them up later? If so, what is typical cost of something like this?
Or can someone actually re-surface rotors themselves? I've never heard of it, but who knows.
Or can someone actually re-surface rotors themselves? I've never heard of it, but who knows.
monsta
Full Access Members
You need a brake lathe to re-surface (also ((incorrectly)) referred to as "turning").
Most shops will charge about 15-20 buck to do it. Beware...most will scare you into thinking that re-surfacing is bad and that you should buy new rotors (from them).
Most shops will charge about 15-20 buck to do it. Beware...most will scare you into thinking that re-surfacing is bad and that you should buy new rotors (from them).
monsta
Full Access Members
I swapped in ceramics without re-surfacing and do not have any problems. My brakes feel better now than they did before.
rwinch
Full Access Members
YEs, most people do simply put new pads in. But resurfacing the rotors is truely the proper way to bring the brakes back to the best operating condition, as it gives the pads a new surface to break in with. Over time, the rotors will wear, leaving a nice glossy (and glazed if overheated) surface. Resurfacing actually roughens up the surface giving the pads something to grab to (more friction), but also takes any warp, uneveness, scraps, gouges, etc. out.
In terms of the shop scaring you into needing new rotors, usually they will say they are getting too thin to resurface. Have them show you the wear, or the excessive warp that they are claiming. If new ones are needed, I can recommend the Brembo brand...cheaper then OEM, and they seem to wear better as well.
In terms of the shop scaring you into needing new rotors, usually they will say they are getting too thin to resurface. Have them show you the wear, or the excessive warp that they are claiming. If new ones are needed, I can recommend the Brembo brand...cheaper then OEM, and they seem to wear better as well.
bnvus
Full Access Members
Good info. Look at the back of the rotor and you will see the "min Thickness" stamped into the casting. Then have the shop measure the rotors right there when you drop them off. This way you know what how close you are to replacement. Typically .003-.005 is taken off each side to true the rotor back up unless they were severly warped from heat.
