Can I, should I, clean the engine?

[fvernet]

Mine is a 2011 Expy with 185k miles. Still running strong. The engine, engine space and everything in there are quite dirty. Is it recommended, or even possible, to clean everything without potentially damaging the electrical conduits/wiring? How would you do it?

 

[07xln]

Absolutely you can clean it. Most of the electrical has water tight connectors and damaging the electrical is really not an issue. With that said though dont go and hit it full on with a power washer cause that could cause issues. I usually cover the alternator with a plastic bag.

My method is hose it down (the entire engine bay) with engine degreaser (everybody has their favorite product to use) on a cool engine and let it sit for the recommended time, usually 10-15 minutes. Then simply hose it off with a light spray of water. I use my power washer but its got a soap dispensing nozzle on it that shoots out a nice light stream of water and nothing powerful. If you want it nice and looking new then you'll have to get after the caked on spots with a brush. After its rinsed you can let it air dry or fire it up and let the engine heat dry it. Afterwards hit it with an engine detail spray and get it looking real pretty

 

[07navi]

I clean all my engines with engine degreaser a a blast from the hose. The trick is to keep it clean so you don't have to be too invasive. Be careful around the cops so you don't get water down in the plug holes. I used to use the quarter car wash but they kicked me out. I never had any problems doing it in 60 years.

 

[Flight-ER-Doc]

Sure you can, and should. It's not at all hard, and you don't need much in the way of tools.

First thing to do is blow all the loose junk off, with a shop vac hose hooked up to the exhaust. This reduces the amount of dirt that will turn to mud.

Then, with a cool engine, spray all the metal and plastic pieces down with some all purpose cleaner - simple green, 409, something fancy from the detail aisle... then scrub it with a kind of firm parts cleaning brush....it lets you get down into small spaces. Rinse, repeat as needed.

If you want to be fancy, spray and wipe down the plastic pieces with some protectant. I like 303. Get the hood gaskets too. Then I lubricate the hinges and lock with silicone spray.

There are a ton of youtube videos on detailing cars, some include doing the engine.

 

[Trainmaster]

I clean mine with spray degreaser and a rag. After a couple of bad experiences I stopped spraying water on them. Everything *should* be waterproof and sealed up. If it's not or if you have insulation breaking down on wires and connectors you could have a problem. I learned that the hard way and I've adjusted my behavior.

In the case of newer Fords, the coils seem to be a weak point. I'd try to keep them dry. I had a few develop consistent problems after soaking.

Nothing like education through pain.

 

[TDBDLB]

After initial heavy cleaning, try tire cleaner/shine spray. Looks nice and removes light dirt/dust to prevent heavy buildup.

 

[postwick]

Find a local car wash that does engine steam cleaning. Does a phenomenal job and less issues with water everywhere.

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

Add me to the lost of "water+coils=problems"...granted, they were aftermarket cheapos and not Motorcraft....waiting on the genius to come along and say that all coils are the same, as are tires and shocks... SMFH.

 

[Machete]

Add me to the lost of "water+coils=problems"...granted, they were aftermarket cheapos and not Motorcraft....waiting on the genius to come along and say that all coils are the same, as are tires and shocks... SMFH.

*****!!! Now that shit right their is fuuuuny. I know who you’re referring to too.

Thanks for the laugh.

 

[07navi]

Add me to the lost of "water+coils=problems"...granted, they were aftermarket cheapos and not Motorcraft....waiting on the genius to come along and say that all coils are the same, as are tires and shocks... SMFH.

Foulmouth strikes again with more bashing.

 

[Machete]

Foulmouth strikes again with more bashing.

If the shoe fits...

 

[BlackBetty]

So… I use water sparingly; basically only mist it before wiping it off. My engine bay is very clean however. Only usually need to removed road dust.

A little trick I learned for a dirty engine compartment is to use tire cleaner; Turtle Wax foam tire cleaner for example. The foam clings to surfaces while it breaks down grease, and grime. You will need a few cans if it’s pretty filthy. Once it has sat on the engine surfaces for about 5-10 minutes I use compressed air to blow it all off. This prevents possible issues that can be had with improper use of/ or excess water.

If there are some nooks, and crannies that need attention you can use a small brush with the tire cleaner (I recently used a small brush dampened with soap and water to do the area directly under the engine cover as I had no access to compressed air while on the road).

I am against using silicon based dressing in the engine compartment as it collects dust. This just makes a potential for making a mess of the area you just cleaned so well. My engine bay looks like new with no dressing. I just periodically mist it slightly, and wipe dry with a rag. Good luck.

 

[BlackBetty]

Oh… there is a similar trick I use on helicopters (especially a Chinook… it’s got hydraulic fluid everywhere) while performing phase maintenance. It consists of compressed air, and alcohol. Works really well. However, the alcohol has a tendency to leave a “dry” look on certain surfaces. But, it cleans fantastically!!! Great for removing hydraulic fluid, pro seal (aviation grade rtv), and most anything else. Oh, there is one more caveat… adding high pressure air to alcohol creates a powerful mist that probably it’s great in confined spaces. That might be what’s wrong with me.

On a serious note, if you have something in an area that doesn’t get much visibility, or doesn’t have sensitive surfaces, by all means give this method a try.

 

[Alwaysthinkin]

After you get all that gunk cleaned out just make the engine compartment part of washing your vehicle. If you wipe it down with a damp rag, some cleaner if needed, it stays pretty darn nice over a long time.

 

[Aspen03]

Find a local car wash that does engine steam cleaning. Does a phenomenal job and less issues with water everywhere.

Steam works wonders. I have a Chief 100 refill I use for all sorts of things around the house, among car details. Its killer for cleaning an oven, the shower, kitchen floor, etc. The $ you'll save in chemicals quickly chips away at the high initial cost of a quality steamer that will last you years.

I can clean an engine in about 60% of the time I used to, use 1/5 of the degreaser it used to require and I've yet to have any issues as there is so little water used it would be a challenge to cause a problem. As mentioned by someone else 303 looks great underhood and doesn't tend to attract dust and such. I clean our personal vehicles with only water on the inside and we have 4 kids. They're spotless when I'm done. No smells, no chemical residues, no $13 bottles of whatever necessary. 500-$1k for a higher end steamer is tough to swallow but it gives you a whole new perspective on how to clean.

I've powerwashed many an engine in my detailing years, just be smart and don't use a 15 degree nozzle at 4000psi and blast right into electronic components. Avoid pcm, coils, alt, etc. I would either use a soap nozzle or a 35-40 degree w a 1500-2000psi setup. You don't need much pressure at all for what is mostly plastic these days. These newer 1200psi ultra compact electric units work pretty well for this task. Having a method to dry would be beneficial as well. Air compressor, portable blower, leaf blower, etc. Heck even a nice shop fan works wonders.

I'm going to do both engine bays here in the next few weeks, I'll snap some pics. Neither has been touched since last April or May. They're not grimy but have their fair share of dust and general road grime

 

[Flight-ER-Doc]

Oh… there is a similar trick I use on helicopters (especially a Chinook… it’s got hydraulic fluid everywhere) while performing phase maintenance. It consists of compressed air, and alcohol. Works really well. However, the alcohol has a tendency to leave a “dry” look on certain surfaces. But, it cleans fantastically!!! Great for removing hydraulic fluid, pro seal (aviation grade rtv), and most anything else. Oh, there is one more caveat… adding high pressure air to alcohol creates a powerful mist that probably it’s great in confined spaces. That might be what’s wrong with me.

On a serious note, if you have something in an area that doesn’t get much visibility, or doesn’t have sensitive surfaces, by all means give this method a try.

LOL.

How do you know when a 'Hook is low on 5606? It stops leaking...

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Oh… there is a similar trick I use on helicopters (especially a Chinook… it’s got hydraulic fluid everywhere) while performing phase maintenance. It consists of compressed air, and alcohol. Works really well. However, the alcohol has a tendency to leave a “dry” look on certain surfaces. But, it cleans fantastically!!! Great for removing hydraulic fluid, pro seal (aviation grade rtv), and most anything else. Oh, there is one more caveat… adding high pressure air to alcohol creates a powerful mist that probably it’s great in confined spaces. That might be what’s wrong with me.

On a serious note, if you have something in an area that doesn’t get much visibility, or doesn’t have sensitive surfaces, by all means give this method a try.

How do you mix the compressed air and alcohol?

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