Changing fuel filter

[TexEx]

2005 expedition is running a a bit rough mostly at a red light in drive with foot on the break & an occasional knock while in drive at idle. No code/CEL , this yr model has no egr to replace or clean however, getting a stronger than normal smell from the exhaust. My question is would an old original fuel filter cause some roughness plus an strong exhaust odor?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Hamfisted]

How many miles on your Expy? If you don't know when the fuel filter was last changed, then yes change it. But if that's the type maintenance that's been done on the Expy your problem could be anything.

 

[TexEx]

206k, It hasn't been ever changed to my knowledge, I ve done basic maintenance to the engine all new coils, most of the spark plugs, new vct solenoids,air filter, last week when the noticeable rough idle began cleaned MAF & deep cleaned throttle intake..no codes this time either. I was hoping I'd get a code to help me along as I have a cple of different types of odb2 readers..thx.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jb14]

Not sure if it will solve the issue but I would highly recommend you change it out recommended to replace the fuel filter at 30k intervals. It is easy to replace (you need the special tool to remove it, cheap and annoying) You state you have a knock at idle, is it a knock or a tick? Tick would probably be cam phasers knock is different.

 

[TexEx]

Yes its more of a knock, trucks got to be pretty warmed up for it to start...almost feels like a thump, but it's not too consistent.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jb14]

If it's a knock you may want to identify where the knock is coming from. Front, right-left valve cover, etc. Not sure if this is the issue but you make want to look at a few of these videos from fordtechmakeuloco might help identify.

https://www.youtube.com/user/FordTechMakuloco/search?query=2005 expedition lifter

 

[TexEx]

Yes he's been the most helpful, interestingly enough I jist walked out & noticed some coolant pooling up on injector #3 and it appears to be dripping down from what ever this connection is, some component affiliated with the heater system..do you know what this is called (photo 2)?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jb14]

look at the link, when replacing be careful the plastic fitting that connects the heater hose at the firewall can be brittle if crack antifreeze will pool up at #4. Additionally, your coil pack maybe fouled out from the fluid and need to be replaced. You can try to clean and dry the area to see if ok 1st. If bad use Motorcraft coil plugs the aftermarket seems to go out (careful of counterfeit coil packs on ebay)

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/help-id-part-coolant-leak.39211/

 

[TexEx]

Yes those yellow aftermarket COPs are actually holding up for now but I have heard they have a limited lifespan, but just looking at that photo i sent is antifreeze pooling on the fuel injector, I actually didnt notice any down in the coil chamber but going to take a look..

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jb14]

Yes that is fuel injectors looks like connection not the best disconnect battery and try to clean.

 

[Hamfisted]

You can get the heater valve from Rock Auto and replace it yourself to stop the leak. You should take the coil packs off #3 & #4 and blow the sparkplug wells out with compressed air to get any coolant out of there.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...355,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+valve,6860

 

[TexEx]

Thx gentlemen, the fuel filter replacment was quite easy today & cheap, also bought the metal connection release tool..then blew out that area where the coolant was visible in hopes to get the heater control valve to leak again just to justify purchasi g a new one...ran the truck around the block with heater going then came back popped the hood & continued to let it run...no leaking but regardless tomorrow I will pull 3 & 4 coils just to check those out & clean em up. Must admit the truck is running better but still ain't right..we all know our 5.4s very well & how they should run & sound. Conclusively, I do think one of those coils are fouled up..thx again.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Trainmaster]

If the water got into the well, change the plug too. The insulator can be cracked. Cheap insurance. Don't even think of a cheap Chinese coil. If you replace one, get a real one.

If the plugs have been there for 70K miles or so, just replace 'em all. You got a miss.

 

[TexEx]

In hindsight you're right should have left it alone, but it turns out I got it off quick & easy & was lucky not to break the blue plastic lock on the tank side connection..the one on there was a motorcraft which tells me it had been replaced..Im the 2nd owner but have had it since'14.. I agree, definitely not the issue ..thx

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Jb14]

Were you able to clean the injector connection points? looked like from the picture the points were dirty which could also cause a disruption in the signal from, and to the contact points.

 

[TexEx]

Sure did, it must be a coil or plug...running better tho..do you happen to know the exact function of the heater control valve? I see a swivel like arm that compresses but have never actually seen it work..thx

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Hamfisted]

The heater control valve just regulates hot water flow to the front heater core. It's a common leak point with age. The rear is fed unrestricted hot water. The valve defaults to the open position and closes with vacuum applied when you request cold air. There is a blend door in the front HVAC unit but the hot water valve just aids in cutting off hot water flow to the heater core to aid in providing cooler air.

 

[TexEx]

So the lever should contract when the rear air( thermostat all the way red) is on?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Hamfisted]

So the lever should contract when the rear air( thermostat all the way red) is on?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

No, it contracts when you request colder air. The rear temperature selection has no affect on the hot water valve. Only the front.