Engine Replacement Questions

[Rich_007]

2001 5.4
I may be looking at having the engine replaced and am trying to get a wag on end cost and what year model engine to look for and which ones to avoid. Developed what I told myself was a tick a while ago that would go away as soon as engine temp started to come up. This has slowly morphed into more of a knock, and the other morning was a full blown clacking for about the first two seconds after fire up.
Instead of buying another used car in the $5k range and inheriting a bunch of new problems, I am thinking of swapping out the engine and driving it a few more years. It has almost 300K on it and not much else is wrong. Put new fuel pump in last year, new tires, new rotors and pads. I was going to drive it til it died, but I have kind of fallen in love with the old gal and wouldn't mind driving it another 100K or so. I have a shop I trust that is very reasonable. I am going to stop in next week and talk to them about what it might cost.
From reading on here, I have seen things about certain engines that may bolt up, but aren't necessarily any better and have some issues. Things like 2 valve vs 3 valve, etc...
Questions are:
1,) Which engine do I want and which do I want to avoid?
2.) Approx. what should I expect to spend on the engine.

I know there are a lot of variables, water pump, gaskets, etc...
Thanks
Rich

 

[1955moose]

You have a 260 horsepower 2valve engine. It has 2 per cylinder or 24 total. It's best to stay as close to your year as possible as they all have little differences. As far as a 3 valve, or 24 valve total, that's a definite no, unless your shop wants to change out a ton of items. And even then who's to say it would work. If your going the remanufactured route with a warranty, your looking anywhere from $3,000 up to $6,000, depending on location of shop, and price of motor and their labor. At 300k miles, your SUV is at it's life's end. The value of your vehicle is under $2,000 with those miles, possibly less. Maybe you or that shop can find a low mileage engine to keep it going.

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[Machete]

https://www.ford54lightningengines.com/process.php

 

[Killer Ride]

If it were me and this is just my opinion I would find out what was making the noise.... rods, bearings, maybe timing chain? Replace all of those. I would chk and see if cylinders weren't too bad, rehone, or rebore if necessary. Add new H or I rods, for sure as that is the weak point on these motors and balance the whole assembly. Also with a little opening up of a few crucial oil passages you get a lot better oil flow also add a new melting or billet oil pump. Do this and you could Supercharge or Turbo it or just have a bulletproof engine that will go a half million mi. No problem

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[TobyU]

You will have more than the vehicle is worth with anew or reman engine replacement.
Either sell now while running and go look at a lot and find one you like and trust, or get a used engine put in yours.
www.car-part.com will find you engines all over the country arranged by proximity to your zip code.
Friend of mine in Florida just got a 99 4.6 from town car or crown vic with 73K for $525 and installed locally for right at 750.

If you get a 125k or fewer mile engine you should have a lot of life out of it. You could consider doing timing set while it's out as that's not too much more, but I would definitely do the exhaust manifold gaskets and studs/bolts. Gaskets are about 15.00 and studs or bolts cheap too...since these like to rust off and leak.

I put a 06 6.8 in my excursion in 2015. It had 110K on it and was spotless inside valve covers.
Still running perfect.
Got it for a great deal with a trans too and installed myself so very economical.

 

[Rich_007]

Thanks for the inputs.
Haven't heard the noise in the last week. All I hear now is a very light (almost imperceptible) ticking for the first min after starting when cold.
If I wasn't listening for it, I probably wouldnt even notice it. That combined with the fact I am at 275K miles, makes it a non-player to me.
One thing I didnt mention in the orig post was the day before i heard the clacking, I had an oil change done. Shouldn't matter, just coincidence I guess.
I called the shop I use and they said to come in and let the guy that does the engine swaps look at it and he will give me a wag on labor.
Reman engine will be more than I am willing to put into it because of possibility of something else terminal showing up due to high mileage.
But putting a couple grand total in it either by doing a cheap rebuild, or a lower mileage engine out of a wreck or something may be an option.
Thanks again for the info.

 

[Trainmaster]

You should be using a Ford Motorcraft oil filter. They have an anti-drainback valve in them. Without that, an engine will often tick on startup...

 

[1955moose]

Trainmaster that's more a problem on the 3 valve motor than the 2, but as cheap as they are, not a bad idea. I think the oil change might have disrupted something in the top end, or the person working on it didn't put back 6 quarts. I know you probably already did this, but check oil level. Stupider things have happened.

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[Machete]

I’m seriously considering doing the timing job on mine. Complete w Melling oil pump, Melling steel tensioners vs plastic and the new style guides w cam timing is $2000. I might add a new water pump, the radiator hoses and throw in new spark plugs.
Wondering if spending $2500-$3000 is worth it since everything is peachy keen. I am pushing 200k now.

 

[TobyU]

I’m seriously considering doing the timing job on mine. Complete w Melling oil pump, Melling steel tensioners vs plastic and the new style guides w cam timing is $2000. I might add a new water pump, the radiator hoses and throw in new spark plugs.
Wondering if spending $2500-$3000 is worth it since everything is peachy keen. I am pushing 200k now.

No it's not and I wouldn't even consider it. Those must be shop prices at $2,000 to do the timing set and oil pump. There are tons of guys that work on these all the time that charge far less than that.
I could go and take my pick of 2000-2004 expeditions with decent miles and in good shape for between 2 and $3,000.

 

[Machete]

No it's not and I wouldn't even consider it. Those must be shop prices at $2,000 to do the timing set and oil pump. There are tons of guys that work on these all the time that charge far less than that.
I could go and take my pick of 2000-2004 expeditions with decent miles and in good shape for between 2 and $3,000.

So just leave it w all these miles? No preventative action like timing job?

 

[1955moose]

We've had a lot of members go the distance on original timing parts. You might open Pandora's box by tearing into your motor. It shouldn't but does in a lot of situations. Timing chains can go a long time. If it we're a timing belt, obviously you have to get rid of those at 90k. They will snap if you push them too far.

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[TobyU]

Everyone I ever heard that had a problem would start at clicking or tapping from the timing chain, guides, or tensioner. Often this would resolve itself after the tensioner clicked out to the next position or the oil pushed it out. I have also seen some with over 200,000 miles only make the noise on an occasional startup and then a different brand or grade of oil completely made the noise go away.
Very, very few first generation modulars ever jump time or bang valves to Pistons so it's not really something you have to worry about immediately. They will usually give you a long time of warning with tapping and clicking noises before it's strands you.

 

[Machete]

Thanks TobyU. That clarifies it for me. Knowing that rather than a bang ping catastrophic failure these 2v will signal in advance makes my decision to wait much more worry free.

Now, let’s talk about the 6.2l 2v engines lol!
I’m hankering for a pickup truuuuuk.

 

[Rich_007]

Talked to shop about engine swap: He said book labor rate is about $1400. Based on my experience with them, they always quote high, especially on something like this. My guess is their labor will be more like a grand or less unless they run into problems. Used engines with approx 125K miles on them seem to be running about $1200 in my area. I am thinking the out the door bill for an engine swap with a new water pump and timing chain, some gaskets, etc... will be right at the three grand mark. This makes it doable. Then I will just have to hope the tranny or nothing else terminal pops up in the next year or so.
Right now I haven't heard any noise for a while and the ticking has all but disappeared. I just wanted to get some info ahead of time, so if this thing suddenly gives up the ghost, I know whether to junk it or fix it.
Thanks for the inputs.
Rich

 

[TobyU]

Just went through this with two friends of mine in the past 3 months. One purchased his engine for a 98 town car in Florida for $505 and had it put in for 750. It was a salvage yard that does the work too. The other one had an 2008 or 10 Lexus with higher miles that overheated and crack the head or blue head gaskets or whatever.
Cheapest quote from a garage was 1550. Someone a lot more than that. Going rate for mechanics on the side to 700-1200 hundred. It's at someone's place right now to get the engine swap for 750. We will see how it all comes out.