Help with "Brown Wire Mod"

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Irwin

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Fellas, I could use some help with the brown wire mod I keep reading about, as I absolutely hate the thought of my AWD kicking on and off constantly.....the wear and tear on parts worries me a bit.

I read quite a bit on it and decided to go about it a bit differently.

It seemed to be that the best option was to run 2 wires out of fuse 104 under the hood (4x4 and clutch motor) to a relay. I wired the relay according to the diagram and then to a switch, all properly grounded.

Here's my problem, as per diagram I get no juice to the switch (check with voltmeter) I found the powered pole of the relay and switched one of my switch wires to that and I now have power to the switch, but it seems to be jumping through the relay, because I now can not control the 4x4 with my new on/off switch.

Could any of you guys provide me with a generic relay diagram or offer any ideas?

If I would have realized how ackward this relay would be I would've just bought a 30amp on/off switch and be done with it, which is what I have resulted to for now as our michigan roads seem to be getting snow here and there.

Any ideas? Thoughts?

Sorry for the horrible explanation, hope you guys can follow what I mean.
 
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Irwin

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Nevermind.....I had created a constant loop outside of the relay.

Nice to have full control of the transfer case (as ford should have designed it)

I've attached a simple paint diagram for what I ended up doing. Hope this helps anybody out who may be interested in doing this mod.
 

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SWAGGA

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Hmmm, I'd be interested in doing this and I think a lot of others would too... Maybe you should do a write-up if you have time?
 

brianwhite

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so did you just pull the fuse, run a wire from each side with your own inline 30amp...then the relay...or tap the wire before the box..if pulling the fuse and putting a switch inline is an option id rather do that, just cause its easier than hunting the wire behind the dash..also..since you've done it have u noticed a difference..my front end seems to engage in reverse with wheel at full turn...love to get rid of that
 
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Irwin

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Yes, I pulled the fuse (#104), inline fuse, relay, inline switch.

I would always feel the AWD engage when turning sharp from a stop sign, and in reverse as well. It became much more apparent when I installed the 285s.


For a short and simple write up-

I found a $12.00 30amp relay wiring kit from tractor supply company pre-made for fog lights.

After searching through the owners manual I found that fuse #104 controlled the transfer case motor and clutch.

Using the supplied wires with the inline 30amp fuses I plugged them into the notches in the junction block. I ran these wires through the drivers side fender well, and after notching the weather stripping near the kick panel ran them into the cabin under dash.

From there the relay was wired according to the diagram (with a little help from my voltmeter too) and then up to the switch where I notched the trim panel directly behind the steering wheel (it pops out really easy)

With the switch in the "on" position the loop now has continuous power and you have AWD, with it in the off position the GEM cannot read the ABS rings sensing slippage and now you have no power to the transfer case motor so you can leave 2 nice black marks on the pavement if you like.

Attached are some pictures for you guys. Sorry I didn't show my complete work, I have everything together and was just too lazy to take it apart. They show the jist of what I explained above.
 

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SWAGGA

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Thanks for the pics and info.

Question... for the models with the 2wd, awd, 4 h, 4l... if they're in 2wd, is there any chance of AWD kicking in? I would assume not?
 

96mustangV6

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I have the 2wd

But after reading, when in reverse and turned full lock the front end makes like a poping sound like the tire is hopin. Kind of like if its in 4wd. But i only noticed it in reverse. Never in Drive though.
 

rtbrjason

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I'm going to give this a shot myself. I pulled the fuse to test the "2wd" mode and it worked great but of course I can't select 4HI/LO when needed.

It would actually be easier to tap the wire in the cabin if you can find it rather than have to to run 2 new lines cleanly through the firewall. I've not decided which way to go yet but it doesn't help that I can't find this wire at the described location in my passenger kick panel 12 pin harness. Other threads mention it runs on the driver side, one indicating you have to remove the seat and pull back the carpet to get to it.

If anyone knows specifically where in the cabin to look/tap on a 99 expedition let me know. If not I will probably start looking into working 2 wires through the firewall.
 

mazdaparts

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What some of you may be experiencing in reverse is the rear diff locking if you have the limited slip diff. One way to tell is get in some gravel or dirt (semi loose stuff) and cut the wheel hard and back up a few feet. If the inner tire mark has the gravel or dirt bunched up it was probably the diff locking.

One question for the OP. If you have the switch set to off you are basically killing power to the transfer case shift motor right? Meaning you would have to turn it back on if manually shifting into 4x4 hi or low. I like the idea of having a 2wd option instead of awd.
 
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Irwin

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One question for the OP. If you have the switch set to off you are basically killing power to the transfer case shift motor right? Meaning you would have to turn it back on if manually shifting into 4x4 hi or low. I like the idea of having a 2wd option instead of awd.

Yes, if I want AWD or 4hi/4lo I turn my switch to the on position.


As far as the other ways of completing this mod go I'm not sure, I just found this to be easy and effective
 
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rtbrjason

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Yes, if I want AWD or 4hi/4lo I turn my switch to the on position.


As far as the other ways of completing this mod go I'm not sure, I just found this to be easy and effective

Agree that the fuse is the clearest way to do this and know that it's working. Unfortunately I'm not the type that can just drape wires through the door jamb and over the weather stripping.

I'm looking around now for an easy and clean passage into the cabin with my wires though and not having much luck. I may end up drilling my own hole and sticking a grommet in there to feed my wires through.

I've looked in the cabin for the "brown" wire but I've found several so not too sure which one to proceed with if I were to go that route.
 

rtbrjason

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Got this completed today. Ended up drilling my own hole just below the windshield near the drive side A pillar. Dropped the 2 wires through and connected to a switch on the steering column trim panel below the instrument cluster.

Switch off and truck is in "2wd" without the ability to choose 4Hi/Low (same as pulling fuse). Switch on and A4WD is on and 4Hi and 4Low become selectable.
 
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Irwin

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Agree that the fuse is the clearest way to do this and know that it's working. Unfortunately I'm not the type that can just drape wires through the door jamb and over the weather stripping.

I'm looking around now for an easy and clean passage into the cabin with my wires though and not having much luck. I may end up drilling my own hole and sticking a grommet in there to feed my wires through.

I've looked in the cabin for the "brown" wire but I've found several so not too sure which one to proceed with if I were to go that route.


**The pictures kind of lie there......they're through the door jamb but not draped over the weather stripping. I eventually plan on re-routing these now that I know this can be permanent and practical.

Glad to have helped someone out though! :party52:
 

Big Red Monster

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i only have one question even so u disable the awd, the front diff still has auto locking hubs so the whole assembly still turns as if it has AWD right? so other then being able to do burnouts is there really anything to benefit from doing this mod?
 
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Irwin

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i only have one question even so u disable the awd, the front diff still has auto locking hubs so the whole assembly still turns as if it has AWD right? so other then being able to do burnouts is there really anything to benefit from doing this mod?


For me, the benefit is in knowing that the transfer case isn't slipping the clutch any time the ABS rings are not all going the same speed.

My front end is an Open differential as far as I can tell (I helped yank a buddy out of the ditch, both rears were spinning only 1 front was spinning)

My biggest worry was unnecessary wear and tear on the transfer case and drive line. Here, with michigan winters I've noticed the AWD would kick off before I needed it to. or as stated earlier I would feel the the transfer case kick in at a full lock turn in reverse or drive.

Honestly the mod was more for peace of mind. if I ever sell the rig I plan on removing the mod all together.

After a week of driving on "2hi" though I can say that my MPG has come up to 15.5 from 13.9 on the overhead display.

I'll keep tabs on the MPGs over the next month to see if there is actually any real difference or not.
 

brianwhite

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just did mine, theres a fairly large hole, with gromit, that's plugged on the drivers side that you can run the wires through that's what I did, didn't wanna drill holes, and not crazy about the door jam thing
 

soulsedge

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Hrmmm, it was my understanding that my 02 expi Eddie bauer, was always all wheel (4wd) no matter what?

Are you telling me we can make it someone go into 2WD?

i thought if a vehicle is A4wd your unable to make it change otherwise, unless you have a 2wd switch ?

i'm confused here lol.
 

71Rcode

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I like the before and after MPG change metrics. Keep that coming, everyone. Great stuff and awesome writeup.
 
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Irwin

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It's been about a month or so now and I have averaged 15.5-16.5 town/country driving. I have seen 18.5-19 on the highway at 68-72 mph

I can't contribute all of this to the "2hi mod" because I have been trying to drive with a much lighter foot I do not let the tach go past 2500 rpm and when I feel a shift coming I lightly let off the throttle, it seems to help a lot but I still love knowing that I am only in 2 hi and not constantly slipping clutches in the transfer case
 
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