Maintenance on 2007 Exp EL

[rod_costa]

Hey all -


I was fortunate to acquire a 2007 Exp EL with 95K miles for $2500 from a neighbor after her husband passed. She has no idea if any maintenance was done besides 5k oil changes (she had receipts). From driving it, it needs new brakes and has a small stutter when under load. No codes get thrown when it I stutters.

What are the main things I should get done/checked immediately to make sure nothing grandees on me? Assuming the truck was neglected for the past few years that is.


Thanks in advance!


RC

 

[Gary Waugh]

At that mileage, I would be considering flushing all fluids (transmission, differential, transfer box, brake fluid and changing the coolant), change the oil filter. The 2007 model is the last year that had the risky hydraulic cam chain tensioner fitted. Does the engine make a lot of noise when you first start it up and then get significantly quieter after 10 seconds or so? (Usually a sign the tensioners have failed). Obviously check the air filter and then the biggie, is you should look at changing all 8 spark plugs, unfortunately the ones fitted to that year are prone to breaking in half when you try to remove them so I would STRONGLY recommend you get a good ford garage to do this (they have a special socket to reduce the risk of the plug breaking when they undo it) and not try yourself, if you break a plug then its a head off job to get the plug removed and probably an insert fitted (much expense)!! There really isn't much else I can think off. If you have a stutter its probably a rubber pipe that has dry rotted and started to crack so you just need to check all the inlet tract rubber hoses for signs of cracking. They are great cars!! and that was a great price..

Gary

 

[Gary Waugh]

I forgot to mention, but probably also change the fuel filter!! Just for peace of mind.

Gary

 

[Don Hall]

Might be wise to verify age of tires. Any tire older that 8 years may be suspect.

https://www.tires-easy.com/blog/tir...MI3YqM0Kza4AIVCB-tBh1hUwxCEAAYASAAEgJNivD_BwE

 

[1955moose]

Rod you may still have codes, just not a check engine light. I'd go by a parts or repair facility that will run a code diagnostic for free. That might tell you which cylinder is misbehaving. It's sad, but I was just thinking the other day about same scenario, buying a used low mileage vehicle off the widow. I'd look carefully through receipts before buying any parts or service. Bring the vin and vehicle by Ford dealer. Older folks usually like to repair at dealership. They have the extra money to do so, and it's smart.

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[JExpedition07]

2007 was not not last year hydraulic chain tensioners were used. It was used in all 5.4 engines from 97-14’. Also used on many other engines and still in use currently.

 

[1955moose]

Gary, J is right in that all 5.4's use hydraulic chain tensioners, actually pretty much all modern vehicles do. I think what you might be referring to is the early 04-07 F150 and 05-07 Expeditions leaky gasket behind the phasers that advance and retard camshafts. It got better in 08, along with a better oil pump, but even up to 2014, the last year, they still have their problems. The 05/06 years, the teething years had the most problems.

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[Gary Waugh]

Thanks guys, yes I was referring to the gasket that blows out at the tensioner, I thought it affected models from 04 to 07..

Gary

 

[1955moose]

Actually theirs more problems with the phasers than the tensioners. Biggest thing is don't go beyond 5-6k on oil changes. Dirt particles and the leaky gaskets seem to cause more problems than any one thing. Most of the members here reported problems due to poor maintenance from previous owner. Ones that take care of their 3 valve early motors seems to have little to no issues. I have a good friends son, that has a 06 F150, that goes and goes. I think he's approaching 200 k these days. He keeps oil clean is why.

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[rod_costa]

At that mileage, I would be considering flushing all fluids (transmission, differential, transfer box, brake fluid and changing the coolant), change the oil filter. The 2007 model is the last year that had the risky hydraulic cam chain tensioner fitted. Does the engine make a lot of noise when you first start it up and then get significantly quieter after 10 seconds or so? (Usually a sign the tensioners have failed). Obviously check the air filter and then the biggie, is you should look at changing all 8 spark plugs, unfortunately the ones fitted to that year are prone to breaking in half when you try to remove them so I would STRONGLY recommend you get a good ford garage to do this (they have a special socket to reduce the risk of the plug breaking when they undo it) and not try yourself, if you break a plug then its a head off job to get the plug removed and probably an insert fitted (much expense)!! There really isn't much else I can think off. If you have a stutter its probably a rubber pipe that has dry rotted and started to crack so you just need to check all the inlet tract rubber hoses for signs of cracking. They are great cars!! and that was a great price..

Gary

Thank you Gary, this is a wealth of information - I will get on these promptly. The truck is 2WD so no transfer case but how hard are the differential and transmission flushes? Is that something that can be done at home with jack stands?

Thanks once again!


RC

 

[1955moose]

Rear differential you drain and refill. Unfortunately your year doesn't have a drain plug on pan or torque converter like early 4r100, and 4r75/80. Your mileage is low enough that you could have trans flushed. Flushing any trans is a bit of a gamble though, due to particles getting loose in there and causing issues. You can do both on stands if you just want to drop pan and refill. You will only get about 6 quarts out doing that way. If your doing trans drain and fill, check your owners book. SP fluid should be for your year. 2008 they switched to LV low viscosity fluid. They are not mixable, so get the right one.

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[rod_costa]

Thanks Moose - I did look at the dif and was puzzled because it seemed really hard to remove the cover with the IRS in the way. Great info!

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Re the plugs, you can certainly do the job yourself. I recommend having the Lisle tool on hand though just in case a plug breaks. You can usually pick up used ones on eBay for half of what a new one costs as most people don't need the tool more than one time.

 

[JExpedition07]

Lisle tool on hand is a must since the plugs may be original with that mileage.

Best procedure to avoid breakage is to:

1. Crack all plugs 1/4 turn loose
2. Spray carb cleaner down each plug well and let soak for 20 minutes minimum
3. Tighten snug again by hand
4. Quickly remove and loosen with impact driver
5. Use torque wrench and install new ones manually

Plugs are most liable to break when using socket set and/or slow trigger on impact when removing. You want to remove them fast.

 

[1955moose]

Guys is their a trick to get his drain and fill plugs on differential off/on.

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[chart75]

Check the heater hose on top of the right bank. They can leak (or split) and spew coolant into your spark plug holes ruining the coils. The radiator can also drip from the bottom corner on the passenger side so worth taking a look at. Any clunks in the front when you go over bumps? Probably due for new shocks. For the most part they're pretty bullet proof. Sitting at 208.5K right now on ours. Ticks like a windup clock but starts and runs better than most cars with half the mileage. We call it the tank.