My experience and symptoms of both front brake hoses going bad.

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chickenator

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My 2014 had been acting not quite right but not really wrong enough. Keep in mind I can do some advanced mechanical work. Like building cars from scratch and fixing issues as they come up.

Looking back know vision is 20/20 right..

So for a while it seemed like the brakes took a bit to start working, but they worked. In the last year or so my transmission did and odd downshift now and then and sometimes when I did a harder stop it seemed like the tranny did not properly downshift. Now if you poke around on the net some you will find changing the tranny fluid may improve shifting. So I was thinking there was an issue with the transmission.

My experience with a bad brake hose has always been one wheel not releasing and a pull. Everything was equal with my Exp.

So last weekend the transmission started acting up something bad. Downshifting and just not happy. I was 45 miles from home and did not want to miss my Iphone battery replacement appt. I figured if the tranny was bad I can't make it worse. There was also a burning smell, but not tranny fluid burning. Yes, I know that smell...

So I get the Apple store and park where I know a roll back can get me easy and hop out. I decided to feel the wheels. Well both front wheels were burning up hot. The right a bit less then the left.

I had a few hours to kill waiting for the battery replace. So I jacked up each side and found the Left side stiffer then the right.

Troubleshooting has a minor learning curve. Jacked up both sides and took the tires off. There is drag from the axles to consider so I looked for when the disk would move freely. I found if I pressed hard the calipers would stick. If I opened the bleed each caliper would release. One bleeder would not free both sides (not master cylinder). I also noticed the left side would not drip but the right side would a small amount.

So I bought a pair of Motorcraft hoses. Tried from the dealer but none in stock. It was $10 ea cheaper to order from Ford and deliver to the dealer. Rockauto had them for half the dealer price and would take 2 days to deliever to my door for $80. It was raining so that was fine as I could not work on it outside. I messed up and did not order the crush washers. Napa did not carry them. Autozone only had 2 in stock. The dealer had them and 4 of them and cost $11 for them which would be about the Autozone cost if they had them.

During take apart the left side did not leak any fluid out the hose when I left it hang. The right side a small amount would come out. Both of them would not let spray cleaner go them.

I pulled most of the old fluid out of the master and filled with new. I bled the brakes a bunch to cycle in new fluid on both sides. I had also pushed the calipers in to squeeze out all the fluid. Vacuum bled then a careful old school bleed making sure to not allow the master cylinder full travel.

Test drive was a night and day difference. Now when I come to a stop and let off the brakes the car will idle forward. The brakes grab hard fast. I was amazed as before the signs were subtle but really glaring once I think about it. So if your car does not move real easy when you let off the brake. If it sometimes after a hard stop does not want to move forward without a bit of gas. If your transmission does a funny downshift like after a stop and as you go up and on ramp then suspect you are due for brake lines.

Hope this was not too long or boring and you can understand it.
 

JamaicaJoe

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My 2014 had been acting not quite right but not really wrong enough. Keep in mind I can do some advanced mechanical work. Like building cars from scratch and fixing issues as they come up.

Looking back know vision is 20/20 right..

So for a while it seemed like the brakes took a bit to start working, but they worked. In the last year or so my transmission did and odd downshift now and then and sometimes when I did a harder stop it seemed like the tranny did not properly downshift. Now if you poke around on the net some you will find changing the tranny fluid may improve shifting. So I was thinking there was an issue with the transmission.

My experience with a bad brake hose has always been one wheel not releasing and a pull. Everything was equal with my Exp.

So last weekend the transmission started acting up something bad. Downshifting and just not happy. I was 45 miles from home and did not want to miss my Iphone battery replacement appt. I figured if the tranny was bad I can't make it worse. There was also a burning smell, but not tranny fluid burning. Yes, I know that smell...

So I get the Apple store and park where I know a roll back can get me easy and hop out. I decided to feel the wheels. Well both front wheels were burning up hot. The right a bit less then the left.

I had a few hours to kill waiting for the battery replace. So I jacked up each side and found the Left side stiffer then the right.

Troubleshooting has a minor learning curve. Jacked up both sides and took the tires off. There is drag from the axles to consider so I looked for when the disk would move freely. I found if I pressed hard the calipers would stick. If I opened the bleed each caliper would release. One bleeder would not free both sides (not master cylinder). I also noticed the left side would not drip but the right side would a small amount.

So I bought a pair of Motorcraft hoses. Tried from the dealer but none in stock. It was $10 ea cheaper to order from Ford and deliver to the dealer. Rockauto had them for half the dealer price and would take 2 days to deliever to my door for $80. It was raining so that was fine as I could not work on it outside. I messed up and did not order the crush washers. Napa did not carry them. Autozone only had 2 in stock. The dealer had them and 4 of them and cost $11 for them which would be about the Autozone cost if they had them.

During take apart the left side did not leak any fluid out the hose when I left it hang. The right side a small amount would come out. Both of them would not let spray cleaner go them.

I pulled most of the old fluid out of the master and filled with new. I bled the brakes a bunch to cycle in new fluid on both sides. I had also pushed the calipers in to squeeze out all the fluid. Vacuum bled then a careful old school bleed making sure to not allow the master cylinder full travel.

Test drive was a night and day difference. Now when I come to a stop and let off the brakes the car will idle forward. The brakes grab hard fast. I was amazed as before the signs were subtle but really glaring once I think about it. So if your car does not move real easy when you let off the brake. If it sometimes after a hard stop does not want to move forward without a bit of gas. If your transmission does a funny downshift like after a stop and as you go up and on ramp then suspect you are due for brake lines.

Hope this was not too long or boring and you can understand it.
How many miles when this started?
 
OP
OP
C

chickenator

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Currently at 122k I dont put a lot of miles on so it likely started in the 110k, but that is not likey super accurate.

I put new pads on the front around 112k so that may have been a factor. The movement of the calipers. But honestly I think it was not quite right for a while.

If you suspect a problem jack the front after sitting for a while. Test the movement then press the brake a few times hard and try again. It is most obvious if the wheel is off. You can see if you have a play on the loose disk rotor. That was my diagnostic point. New hoses and they were free by them time I got from the pedal to the rotor. It was not like that before.
 

max78

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Interesting experience for sure.

I replaced all the rubber hoses on my wife's 09 when it hit 220K miles. I figured I would be preemptive about it.
 

JamaicaJoe

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I am considering replacing them for my 2013 at 118K given that my 2001 needed them at about 10 years and 80K. I have noticed a lot of brake dust front and rear on new pads and slightly elevated heat on right rear.
 

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