New engine install 2011 Expedition

[JonInMotion]

Hello! New member here, and looking for any helpful tips regarding engine replacement on my 2011 Expedition. I picked it up not running, and with the engine partially disassembled (valve covers, timing cover, engine harness disconnected) with about 187000 miles on the odo. I have not driven it. It has a broken valve spring and the metal debris damaged the camshaft. There is also plenty of evidence that the heads have been starved of oil. I opted to go with a reman engine because of the high mileage.
My question to all of you is what are some of the things you would recommend me changing while I have the motor out (other than the obvious belts, hoses etc.)? The truck was well taken care of and from what I was told by the previous owner (who bought it with 50k in 2014) it wasn't used to tow anything heavier than a 18' boat occasionally. Just looking to see what recommendations are out there, or if there are common issues that would be easier to fix while I have the engine out.

Thanks in advance!

 

[mjp2]

Replace the exhaust manifolds. They tend to crack and are miserable to swap with the engine installed.

 

[mnachreiner86]

I agree with the manifolds. Better do everything you can if you plan on keeping it indefinitely. Congrats on your new ride.


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[JonInMotion]

Replace the exhaust manifolds. They tend to crack and are miserable to swap with the engine installed.

Yeah I had to remove the driver side manifold to get the engine mount bolts out and it was a chore. Thanks!

I agree with the manifolds. Better do everything you can if you plan on keeping it indefinitely. Congrats on your new ride.



Thank you, I cant wait to drive it. Just waiting for the motor to get here so I can drop it in!

 

[Hamfisted]

I'd probably swap out the motor mounts while the motor is out. They get spongy around 200k anyway. Front oxygen sensors if they are original should be replaced too. Water pump.... wow, you pulled it out with the oil dipstick tube in place... I'm impressed ....

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

Years ago, I was helping a friend pull his 350 out of his truck (damned chevys, anyhow...), and he was insistent to pull the dipstick/tube before hoisting the engine up, up, and away.

Oil all over his grandpa's shop floor. Gramps was not happy.

When the other engine went in, he had to do it out on the driveway. In gravel. On a piece of 3/4" plywood.

When I yank a motor, I leave as much on as I can. When I take stuff out of Mustangs, I pull engine and trans. Lot easier to bolt up a T5 on the floor than under a car lol.

On a (Foxbody) 5.0, I can usually have the engine out in and hour, hour and a half. I've done so many of em, to tell a number would be a total guess at this point LOL.

 

[Kevin08]

Jasper?

 

[JonInMotion]

Thanks for all the tips so far. I removed the passenger exhaust manifold and it was cracked. I was hopeful that Ford would have fixed the manifold cracking issues, but it guess not? They do seem like they are a better design from the old modular manifolds.

I'd probably swap out the motor mounts while the motor is out. They get spongy around 200k anyway. Front oxygen sensors if they are original should be replaced too. Water pump.... wow, you pulled it out with the oil dipstick tube in place... I'm impressed ....

It survived the engine removal, but the Rust belt had gotten the best of it and the tube busted off at the block.

 

[71Rcode]

Nice work. Man... you've got to get that cherry picker high.

 

[NovaSS]

This time last year I swapped out the 2011 Engine for a new rebuilt Jasper. The new Jasper is modified and just feels so much better very strong and solid

 

[riphip]

Good luck on the Jasper rebuild. Jasper is not the cherished rebuilder name it used to be in trannies and engines.

 

[DSF1]

Ok. I'll ask: what's a Jasper? And if not a Jasper, then who?

 

[mjp2]

If/when the time comes on my truck I'm going with a local rebuild shop.

https://www.promarengine.com/engine-details.php?pn=FO5.4-12

 

[NovaSS]

https://www.jasperengines.com/stock-replacement-engines

Came with a warranty and the sensors on top were not necessary. So that removed the two in the valve cover area.

 

[Lynnii2]

If/when the time comes on my truck I'm going with a local rebuild shop.

https://www.promarengine.com/engine-details.php?pn=FO5.4-12

It is better to buy the rebuild from them or to send in your orginal engine and have them rebuild. I have a 2010 with 211,000 and runs good as the day I bought from the dealership. I only issue was the water pump went out at 130,000 and my ac compressor just went out 2 weeks ago. I got it fixed and ac cold as ice again.

 

[JonInMotion]

Got the truck running and I love it! It is a huge upgrade from my Heritage F150 XL.
This is the first time I have installed a Re-manufactured engine in my personal vehicle, and I am wondering what all your thoughts are on the break in procedure. The reman says to use conventional oil and change it after 500-600 miles. Then they specify to use conventional again and change it after 3000 miles. It is an LKQ reman purchaced through Powertrain Products. I am following their recommendation so I don't void the warranty but I would like to see what all your guys experience has to say on the subject.

 

[Hamfisted]

Do what they say, then eventually switch out to a synthetic 5w-30 .... and only Motorcraft oil filters ....

 

[71Rcode]

Congratulations and I agree with the prior post. I would use conventional oil for the 1st 5 - 600 miles. Oil that has a heavy zinc content. Definitely agree on the 5W30 synthetic after that. Everyone has different thoughts on one brands but that's the right weight in my opinion

 

[5pencer]

Hi all,

I’m pretty sure that I’m looking to have a rebuild or reman. I was towing my travel trailer last week and lost all power when accelerating from stop. I also heard a wap wap wap sound. Fortunately, I was able to get the Expy and TT off the road safely. Prior to the power loss, there had been a slight tick and shifting lag about 1500-2000 RPMs. I thought is would be resolved by a trans flush and fill which I had schedule for the very next day.

Initial brief diagnosis is very low pressure on cylinders 1 & 2. Cyl. 4 is a bit lower than spec.

I was driving cross country, so I’m looking for good shops west side of Saint Louis.
2011 Ford Expedition 130k miles
A/c compressor was recently replaced
New Yokohama’s 2 weeks old
Front 4wd rebuilt in December.

I’m on the fence about doing the rebuild/reman, because it’s a rough work truck with some NE rust. But I had thought the mechanicals were good.

 

[07navi]

I agree with Hamfisted.