New Owner - Couple of questions!

[Tolarn]

Bought a 2000 Expedition Eddie B. So far everything seems great. Little bit of under performance in the fuel department but I wasn't expecting stellar grades there. Hitting 9 in town and about 13 on the Highway.

I have a couple of issues i've never dealt with and I'm hoping to pick some of your brains for answers =)

The blower on the fan isn't working at all. The dealership is fixing that for me but I couldn't wrangle them into fixing anything else with it. IS there a separate healing and cooling system in the back that's independent of the front? I'm getting no heat from the back either.

Power door locks are a little wonky. All 5 doors are moving the locks however just barely on 4 of them and not at all one one. Is it possible this could just be something being loose or am I looking at replacing the celluloid/actuator part?

All of the rear speakers do not work and center console radio controls will not engage. Even after holding down 3 and 5 on the main radio. You can control the heat but nothing else from the back.

Occasionally when starting the vehicle while its in park I have to move it to Neutral in order to start it. I believe this to be a sensor of some kind that's out of whack. Shifting into park can be tricky at times because of this.

These are the only problems with it the book I bought doesn't seem to cover some of these issues.


Thank you,

Daniel

 

[FordandPolaris]

Look into the GEM for your power lock problem. I included a thread that explains what happens with water getting inside the dash and into the GEM.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f42/first-gen-windshield-leak;-thermo-16058/

This is also a thread I started that should help you see what the GEM controls, one of the members here posted a very helpful list that should be beneficial.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f16/what-all-does-gem-control-18616/

As far as the park thing goes, I do think there is a neutral position sensor but I am not positive on that. Others will post back and help you out.

 

[RobertNol]

About the starting in nuetural. I have the same problem right now, just havent had time to fix it. I believe i the neutral position switch is on the driver side of the transmission right below the shifting linkage. Try and to pull up on the shifter on the steering column and see if the truck will start. My sensor is just barley off so i can pull up on the shifter and and it will start.

The neutral position switch like i said is right under the shifting linkage on the drivers side of the transmission. It is held on by 2 (8mm, i believe) bolts and i haven't fixed mine yet but i believe the neutral sensor needs to be turned counter clock wise a little and that should fix it.

 

[Thermo]

Tolarn/Robert, try this, roll the key to the START position and then give the gear shift lever a tap up and down. I bet the truck will start. What happens is the position switch on the side of the tranny will get water in it and it will cause some of the terminals to corrode and cause what you are seeing. Not that I have ever driven my truck through 4 feet of water (well, not once, but twice), I know that the sensor can become water logged and cause all sorts of issues.

Tolarn, because all of the locks are doing the same thing, I would be venturing to guess that your door relays. They are located down and below to the left of the radio as I recall. You will see 3 relays side by side if you remove the radio. Granted, it is possible that you have a bunch of weak solenoids as these are known to cause what you are seeing. The other check that I would tell you to make is to remove one of the three relays and look on the relay. You should see the numbers 30, 85, 86, and 87. See where the 87 terminal is and then find that in the socket where you removed the relay from. Now, put the red lead of a multimeter to that terminal in the socket and the black lead on the chassis of the truck. You should get 12.6 VDC right now with the truck off. With the aid of someone, have them attempt to unlock and lock the doors as you watch the multimeter. Do not be afraid to hold the button down for a few seconds so youcan get a fairly accurate reading on the multimeter. You may also notice at this time that either the lock or unlock function will not work (because you removed the relay for it). Did the multimeter voltage drop below 11.5 VDC? If yes, then you have a wiring issue either in the fuse box or in the black/white wire running between the fuse box and the relays. If the voltage was above 11.5 VDC, then you most likely have some bad actuators.

 

[Tolarn]

Thank you I'll try that for the locks and the starting. I definitely think the shifting is that sensor. I noticed it happens more when its cold. Its been subverting here the last few weeks.

 

[RobertNol]

Yeah thermo i just tried my fix and it didn't work at all... So i have the other shift sensor left from the f150 and I'll try and switch it out..

 

[niowa98eb]

The starting issue could be the two bolts on the steering column. If you shifter is also loose I would check those. If you do a search for loose shifter on this site the first thread has a good pic of the bolts I'm talking about. Link below


http://www.expeditionforum.com/f42/...-signal-cancel-17911/?highlight=loose+shifter

 

[Tolarn]

Front heaters fixed. The fan in the back works great but still no heat coming through. I understand there is a heater core on the driver side. Is there any typical problems with this?

 

[jbanks]

HI. I think we might have the same problem. Do you have a clicking noise coming from your console?

Check out this thread.

Blower blows but the actuator door that goes to the rear doesn't open. So, it doesn't allow any air past.