Noise on start up

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Shantheman73

Shantheman73

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Also forgot to mention, I ordered an OEM oil pump from Ford some time ago to prep for this. Is the oem pump really that bad? I was planning on just using the new Ford pump with the new timing components, the original made it to 160k after all:
View attachment 34851

Everything i've read and even heard today at the mechanic...installing a higher flow oil pump is a really good thing for these engines.
 

JExpedition07

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Everything i've read and even heard today at the mechanic...installing a higher flow oil pump is a really good thing for these engines.

Sigh, it’s been a few months since purchase and Tasca Ford is tough with returns so I’m stuck with it. I guess I’ll play it by ear when the time comes.
 
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07navi

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Sigh, it’s been a few months since purchase and Tasca Ford is tough with returns so I’m stuck with it. I guess I’ll play it by ear when the time comes.
I'm sure it will be just fine. People make all kinds of "improved" parts and many are overkill.
 

NobodySpecial

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Sigh, it’s been a few months since purchase and Tasca Ford is tough with returns so I’m stuck with it. I guess I’ll play it by ear when the time comes.
While I personally prefer the Melling, the Ford pump would probably suffice. The OEM Ford pumps have had a few issues here and there, but one thing I can certainly say about my own personal F-150: I have not had an issue with my pump yet. Idles with 30-ish PSI at hot idle.
 

JExpedition07

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It’s settled then, I’m just going to use my new ford oil pump. I just ordered the new oem tensioners, guides, chains, and tensioner arms from Tasca Ford as well. Only thing I know of that I’m missing now is the timing cover seals.
 
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Shantheman73

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It’s settled then, I’m just going to use my new ford oil pump. I just ordered the new oem tensioners, guides, chains, and tensioner arms from Tasca Ford as well. Only thing I know of that I’m missing now is the timing cover seals.

The Ford one should be just fine.
Maybe consider the cam phasers tho. It’s a lot of work to do the tensioners. Like the mechanic told me today...doesn’t make sense to NOT do them while you’re in there. Not required obviously. Just wise.


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07navi

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It’s settled then, I’m just going to use my new ford oil pump. I just ordered the new oem tensioners, guides, chains, and tensioner arms from Tasca Ford as well. Only thing I know of that I’m missing now is the timing cover seals.
You probably won't but they are rubber and reusable plus you could add sealer if you want.
 

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It’s settled then, I’m just going to use my new ford oil pump. I just ordered the new oem tensioners, guides, chains, and tensioner arms from Tasca Ford as well. Only thing I know of that I’m missing now is the timing cover seals.

Most big box parts stores should have that gasket if you can't get it locally or from somebody like Tasca fast enough, I'd replace it as well (and did). Cheap insurance.

You can expedite shipping from a Ford dealer parts dept for some sort of rush charge that is a percentage of the part cost. for the gasket might just be a couple bucks.
 

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It's just a rubber seal that goes in a groove, I probably won't even buy one if this engine needs fixing.
 

JExpedition07

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For $10-$15 you might as well replace the seals, otherwise you can spend hours putting it back together just to find it leaks and needs to be torn down again.
 

rjdelp7

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Ahhh, that makes sense. You’re prob right...it’s too invasive and their techs prob don’t have the skills or maybe even the time. It’s easier to sell a new engine and move on.

I spose for $2500, getting both timing chain tensioner, hi flow oil pump, and the cam phasers...it’s not a bad price. Just sucks it’s so invasive.


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If the tensioner failed, the chain has been grinding the metal under it and front cover. The broken plastic guides get sucked up in the oil pick up and starve the engine. This is why Ford replaces, instead of fixing.
 

07navi

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If the tensioner failed, the chain has been grinding the metal under it and front cover. The broken plastic guides get sucked up in the oil pick up and starve the engine. This is why Ford replaces, instead of fixing.
That's worse case scenario, the OP's chain only rattles for a second and just started so it will take a while to get worse and might just remain like it is for a long time. My v-10 rattled every morning for a couple years in the winter for about 5 minutes and the guides were like new still at 200k miles when I replaced one tensioner. That's all I put in, no chain case rubber seal or anything else and that was 2 years ago. It never leaked and I ended up giving the guides I bought for it to the new owner.
 

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Put another new Motorcraft oil filter on it or get a Wix and put high mileage 5w30 or 10w30 oil since it is getting warmer and a bottle of Bars engine oil stop leak or Blue Devil engine oil stop leak. Blue Devil is much better but is 19.99...Follow instructions s I don't remember if you use a whole bottle for a typical engine but base it on the qts the engine takes and give it a full dose.

Then give it a few weeks and see if it gets better.

At 170k it is not an unexpected disaster if the engine goes completely.
I have had this completely fix noises like this from tensioner seal leaking on start up etc.

The stop leak is a seal sweller and is not thick.

You could try some Lucas too but I am NOT a fan of oil thickeners.
 

07navi

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Put another new Motorcraft oil filter on it or get a Wix and put high mileage 5w30 or 10w30 oil since it is getting warmer and a bottle of Bars engine oil stop leak or Blue Devil engine oil stop leak. Blue Devil is much better but is 19.99...Follow instructions s I don't remember if you use a whole bottle for a typical engine but base it on the qts the engine takes and give it a full dose.

Then give it a few weeks and see if it gets better.

At 170k it is not an unexpected disaster if the engine goes completely.
I have had this completely fix noises like this from tensioner seal leaking on start up etc.

The stop leak is a seal sweller and is not thick.

You could try some Lucas too but I am NOT a fan of oil thickeners.
I agree, OP put some BarsLeak in there. Yours isn't that bad it just sounds bad. After the oil pumps up the tensioner it's the same as any other well running engine and I doubt it your guides have any damage to them. We are only talking a 1-or 2 second lapse.
 

TobyU

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I agree, OP put some BarsLeak in there. Yours isn't that bad it just sounds bad. After the oil pumps up the tensioner it's the same as any other well running engine and I doubt it your guides have any damage to them. We are only talking a 1-or 2 second lapse.

Just make sure it is the engine oil stop leak.
Had a friend one time on an old 83-84 Escort wagon put Bars Leak RADIATOR stop leak into engine!! It is black like oil....but those PELLETS...
The engine locked up in about 8 miles.
 

07navi

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Just make sure it is the engine oil stop leak.
Had a friend one time on an old 83-84 Escort wagon put Bars Leak RADIATOR stop leak into engine!! It is black like oil....but those PELLETS...
The engine locked up in about 8 miles.
When I was a kid a friend of mine worked a gas station and he put engine oil in an auto trans. (don't remember any more about it.)
 

TobyU

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When I was a kid a friend of mine worked a gas station and he put engine oil in an auto trans. (don't remember any more about it.)

If he just topped it off or added a quart or two it wouldn't have made any difference especially in the old transmissions.

If a full pan of oil it would probably chirp the tires when it shifted!!!
 
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