P0435

[GngrBeardMan]

Just started having my first issue with my Expedition. Pulled up to a drive through window this morning and a I let of the gas she started running really rough. I put it in park and she settled and was running fine. Then when I started to pull away she started running rough again and then died. I restarted her and she seemed to be doing fine as long as I have her some gas but stayed to struggle when the rpms dropped back down to idle. Drive her over to a friend's house close by and she stopped acting up and was fine even in his driveway at idle. I have a Fixd scanner installed so I checked for codes even though the check engine light was off. Have a stored 0430 code, which I'm pretty sure it's the cat on the drivers side as everything else has been checked out replaced, and a pending 0345 . Drove it back to my house and had no other issues. Going to double-check the driver side cam sensor here in a little bit. Here's hoping that it's nothing more than a cam sensor starting to go bad LOL.

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Just started having my first issue with my Expedition. Pulled up to a drive through window this morning and a I let of the gas she started running really rough. I put it in park and she settled and was running fine. Then when I started to pull away she started running rough again and then died. I restarted her and she seemed to be doing fine as long as I have her some gas but stayed to struggle when the rpms dropped back down to idle. Drive her over to a friend's house close by and she stopped acting up and was fine even in his driveway at idle. I have a Fixd scanner installed so I checked for codes even though the check engine light was off. Have a stored 0430 code, which I'm pretty sure it's the cat on the drivers side as everything else has been checked out replaced, and a pending 0345 . Drove it back to my house and had no other issues. Going to double-check the driver side cam sensor here in a little bit. Here's hoping that it's nothing more than a cam sensor starting to go bad LOL.

You mention in the post that you have a stored 0430 code and a pending 0345 code - but you topic headline says P0435.

Do you also have code P0435?

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Sorry, no just the 0345. Lol fat thumbs

 

[whtbronco]

Looks like P0345 is most likely a faulty cam sensor as you noted.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Worked fine for a day, then took a 20 mile drive and she died then the check engine light came on for both cam position sensors. At least they are both easy to get to lol. Hopefully they both just decided to fail around the same time. I believe they are the originals

 

[GngrBeardMan]

No good. Put new sensors in and drove fine last night. Had to take her to the doctors and got about a mile and a half away from the doctor's office and she would die every time I slowed down. Barely made it to the doctor's office. Doesn't seem to want to stay running

 

[GngrBeardMan]

It's odd. It only acts up when I'm not giving her gas. Had to drive home and decided taking the freeway was a better idea than back street and had no issues the whole way home until I came to a stop to turn into my apartment complex. When the RPMs dipped below 750 she stuttered a few times then was fine pulling me into my parking spot

 

[whtbronco]

Yeah seems like when both sensors appear to have failed at the same time on the 5.4L 3V it's most often time to do a timing job.

I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in here, but I wonder if FORScan can display timing in real time while your driving? I know it will display quite a few things in real time while driving and save them for review, but I have never tried to look at timing.

There's lots of threads here about replacing the timing chains and components on the 5.4L 3V, just search "timing" in the 2003-2006 forum.

Here's a video that's likely very a good resource as well. https://youtu.be/qpPs9KuJmqM

With those you should be able to get a better idea of the cause of your issues.

 

[SafariGoneWrong]

Get the FORScan Lite app for your phone and a compatible OBD Bluetooth adapter. You can see cam advance (retard), advance error, solenoid duty cycle and a lot more to take the guess work out. It’s nice to have a second set of gauges in a way to see how the engine and drivetrain are doing.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

I have a Fixd scanner and use their app. I'm pretty sure it has those readings as options in the live data feed screen but if it doesn't I might try that app. I was hoping it is just a VCT solenoid because I can't afford to have a shop do the timing and I don't have anywhere I can do it myself unfortunately. I've seen a few other posts with the same or similar symptoms that ended up being the solenoid causing the problem and I talked to a friend that had an 05 with the same issue. He said he swapped the solenoid and hasn't had a problem yet.
How many miles do most people see before they need to do a timing job? Just crossed 149K this morning.

 

[Hamfisted]

Do you know what weight oil you're using in the motor ? Some people have had good luck switching to a heavier oil, like a 10w-40 to regain phaser operation or at least minimize the missing or rough running. It's a relatively cheap option to try. So if you try the new cam sensor and have no success you might try the heavier oil.






.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

The last time the oil was changed valvoline put in 5w20

 

[whtbronco]

Seems most of the posts I have seen reported mileage between 150-200k, with some as low as 100k.

So I had issues with a place to do the work in the past as well. I rented a space in a garage from a co-worker once and I had buddies that rented a storage facility. You probably should ensure they would allow that before signing an agreement of course. Anyway, just some ideas if you want to tackle the job yourself.

I wondered if a heavier weight oil could help delay the inevitable and based on Mike's response now we know.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

New update. Got off work and decided to run some more tests. Now I'm getting a p0340 and p0349 in stored codes and p0345 and p0012 and I noticed I can't get her above 2875 RPM

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Okay so may not be related but I feel really stupid about this. I have a habit of not checking my oil unless I drive a vehicle and as I haven't been driving this one very often I haven't checked the oil in a very long time. I checked the oil after taking it for a quick test drive down the road and back and there was no oil on the dipstick after about 15 minutes of waiting but it's sitting around at my house. So I grabbed some oil that I had laying around and added some, about 3 quarts worth after a couple of different Cycles. Starter back up and she's sounding as smooth as butter, so I decided to get her back on the road and see how she does. Had no problem going above 3,000 RPM and when I stuck it down to the floor she got up pretty high before she shifted like she used to do with absolutely no issues, no hesitation or stuttering. Drove like a top for about 20 minutes without any issues and then I decided to come home. Ever since this started she would have issues getting back into the parking lot at my apartment complex and she pulled in with no problem. Is there any chance that the oil being 3 quarts low could mimic a timing issue?

 

[whtbronco]

Yes absolutely, the timing chain tensioners use oil pressure to adjust the chain. Of course the entire valve train is also lubricated by the oil and you were 50% low. At higher rpm their may not have been enough oil for the pump to pick up.

Glad to hear it sounds like a fairly easy fix resolved the issue.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

So adding oil definitely got rid of majority issues. Now the only time she dies or starts acting up seems to be when I have to reverse, doesn't happen all the time like when I'm pulling out of a parking spot and I have to crank the wheel hard over and reverse she ends up struggling and she's dying me a couple times. The check engine light did come back on for the bank to sensor and she started acting like the timing was way off again. I'm thinking that as soon as I can come up with the money to do so I need to just pay somebody to do a full timing job on it. Would try to do it myself but I don't have any place that I am allowed to work on vehicles at that I could do this something like that. The other thing is when she does start acting up usually the only thing I have to do is just restart her and she's fine at that point. Going to keep looking into a few things but I think my next step would be to check for corrosion on the connector for Bank two sensor. Not a huge fan of having to tear off all that wire harness wrap that's all over a majority of her wires but I will do what I have to do LOL

 

[whtbronco]

Here's a far less intrusive way to test wires from one of the really smart members here.

From Yupster Dog:
"Voltage Drop Test is testing the connections without having to take them apart and you can work your way right to the problem.
So you have a volt meter and you put the red on the positive battery post and the black on the negative post you will get how many volts your battery is putting out. (12.v)
now that you know your volt meter is on and working,

The goal is to read 0 volts.(means all good connections) the more volts you read the worse the connection. (Ex 1.5v it's a little dirty all the way to 11.3v means almost no connection.)

(notice I don't say black and red colors here, that is because it doesn't matter what colors where)

Put one wire on negative post then put the other wire on the clamp that is on the negative post. If you read any volts at all those volts are being lost in the connection from the post to the clamp. (Ex if you read 1.5v you need to clean the battery terminal). put back together and move on to the next connection on the wire and one still on the battery post.
This can be done on both positive and negative sides the exact same way.

Look up (Voltage Drop Test) You tube vids get a little techy but my explanation should help a little."