PLEASE HELP!! loss of power during acceleration and intermittent rough idle

[catfish_chaser]

I need help trying to diagnose a problem with my 2006 expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4l 4x4 the vehicle has 133, *** miles on it. I purchased it from a used dealership two months ago. Whenever I drive it on The highway it seems to lose power when I accelerate and stalls out. But when I ease up on the pedal and press it again most of the time it picks back up but does it again often while operating . And also after I drive for a long distance at highway speeds and I start to slow down and come to a stop my vehicle shakes violently and you can hear a loud ticking noise. I've taken it in but they can find nothing wrong. Sometimes while the vehicle is shaking and idling rough the check engine light will kick on for a brief moment. Or stay on then randomly shut off. Also on rare occasion at highway speeds my chick engine light will flash which I've been told is misfiring. But it doesn't stay on for longer than a minute. I would really appreciate Any input as I'm on a fixed income being I'm a disabled vet. So I can't afford to pay for fixes and replacements of things that don't need fixed or replaced.

 

[Hamfisted]

What codes are stored ?

If it's illuminating the CEL it will be storing the DTC code that triggered it. What is the code? Buy a CAN compliant code reader and read the codes yourself.

http://http://www.actron.com/product_category.php?id=249


Post what codes it's throwing.


-Mike

 

[catfish_chaser]

The code it threw out was p0305 cylinder 5 misfire. What would cause this?

 

[toms89]

Cops (coil over plug) are relatively common causes of misfire on these vehicles. It can also be the spark plug, fuel injector or a variety of other potential issues. I would recommend starting with replacing the spark plug and cop on the number 5 cylinder based on your cel.

 

[catfish_chaser]

So I should just change the #5 spark plug and cop? Or should I replace all? I know nothing about vehicles. And how much would the cop cost? I can't find them online. And thank you for your advice

 

[toms89]

If you dont know the maintenance history I would consider replacing all the spark plugs as they are a wearable item but only the one is necessary. You may chose to wait and see if this takes care of the misfire if funds are limited. If not I would replace the cop just on the identified cylinder.

 

[Butch Smith]

Do the coil first its the easyist. Then test drive it to see if it is still doing it.

 

[catfish_chaser]

Thanks!! Ill post as soon as I get it replaced. I'm worried about the spark plugs tho. I've been told they are difficult to take out

 

[Butch Smith]

Changing the plugs is very hard. About 3 of the 8 will break into and if you don't have the right tools you can not get them out. Do just the coil and see how it goes.

 

[catfish_chaser]

Thank you for yalls input!! Ill get back on here and post what I figure out when I get a chance to try out what y'all suggested. Moneys tight right now. So I gotta price the fixes first then spend accordingly

 

[catfish_chaser]

Just another update. Not sure what to think of this. But I decided to look under. the hood earlier. Was look around at the cylinder 5 cop. And above that saw a connector that wasn't attached. On my injector where it connects the the fuel rail. The electrical plug that also connects to it had what looked like a splice running off to a small male end plug. And I found the female end. I'm goin to trace the wires tomorrow. But I just figured I would post cuz maybe somebody could save me the trouble of tracing it. Also. I figured I would drive it and see if connecting that plug would help anything. Well. It drove good for a bit. But then it got worse than what it originally was. But while driving I floored it. And it stalled out hard and kicked on the CEL. so tomorrow I'm gonna get a code reader on it again. And hopefully I'll be able to find out more. Then I'll write what I find out on here

 

[catfish_chaser]

well, i changed the coil on the #5 cylinder, and it was running significantly better, but after driving around 20 miles throughout the day with no problem it started hesitating on acceleration again, so i might change the sparkplug next and see if that totally fixes the problem, if i have a bad coil, can that cause a bad sparkplug? and also, i found out what the extra wire was thats spliced into the #5 injector wire, its for the remote start, now my question is, could that wire thats spliced into the injector wire cause that coil pack to go bad?

 

[cheapdad00]

See my results in the shudder thread. Yes, cylinder 5 bad coil could cause problems with the plug and cause misfire/hesitation (dealer replaced both of mine at the same time in order to correct the problem - even though the plug was only a day old). Given what happened to me, if changing the plug doesn't fix it, I would also look at cylinder 1 (plug and coil), as the cylinders work in pairs.

Feel fortunate, that your problem is on cylinder 5, by far the easiest to physically get at. As others have said in this thread, if you want to try the spark plug yourself, be sure to have access to the extractor tool as if they are original, then there is a high chance you will break a couple out of 8. When I replaced my 8, 3 broke off.

 

[catfish_chaser]

yeah, when i replaced the coil pack it ran great, then after driving for a while (same day) it started showing the same symptoms, when i had the code read at advance i had them clear the codes. tonight i drove on the highway and floored the accelerator and it hesitated and wouldnt go over 60 mph at 4000 rpms, then id let off on the accelerator and press it again and it would pick back up, got the cel to blink, then finally got it to come back on, gonna go get the code read tomorrow and see if its the same code, or maybe it will show a new one with the p0305 code, to help diagnose the problem. ill post what i figure out...im just really irritated, i bought this vehicle from a used car lot for 11k, paid cash, i shouldnt be having any issues at all!!! ugh, then to top it off checked my oil today, and have that yellow slime, had the same thing 2000 miles ago when i got my oil changed and had it flushed, seems its back, gonna add some coolant, and monitor the level, im just hoping its condensation from stop go driving, really dont wanna deal with a cracked head i have such horrrrrible luck!!!

 

[Hamfisted]

Man you do have bad luck. You shouldn't have any "slime" in your oil. Somebody abused the crap out of that truck and just traded it in. Used car lot bought it at auction not knowing it's history then dumped it on you. Do you see any black residue in the coolant reservoir ? Or have coolant blowing out of the reservoir cap? If not maybe you'll be lucky and some ********* just dumped something into the crankcase before trading it in and it'll eventually get flushed out. Try running some motor flush in the crankcase before your next oil change. I would also recommend synthetic oil like Mobil One and not a regular dino oil. This one may be worth dropping off at the Ford dealer and letting them analyze it. Hope your luck changes.


-Mike

 

[catfish_chaser]

I don't see any black residue. But I got a code reader on it today. P0305 p0302 p0303 p0171 p0174 and 2 or 3 other misfire codes I can't remember off the top of my head. Ones misfire on startup. And another that's multiple misfire or something and there might be another one. But it's another misfire code. Any idea what is going on? Lol. I swear if I didn't have bad luck I wouldn't have any luck at all. Please help!!!

 

[catfish_chaser]

P0305, p0316 p0302 p0303 p0300 p0171 p0174 p0100 those are all the codes that came up today

 

[01yellerCobra]

The P0100 is a bad MAF sensor. Have you tried cleaning it recently? A bad or dirty MAF can cause all kinds of issues. I would try that first and see if it helps. I would plan on the plugs soon either way. I'm going to guess the plugs are original. And if it has the same plugs as my 08 EL and our 06 GT then they're done. I pulled both sets out around 50k and they were wore out. More then likely the lean codes (P0171 and P0174) are caused by the missing issue and will go away once the truck is running good again. Although I would add those to the list of things to replace soon.

 

[catfish_chaser]

ill look into that next, for now i called the lot i got it from, and he seems eager to help me get the issue fixed, i have known the guy for a few years, we are by no means close but its not like im some random buyer he probably wont see again, so i know hes a pretty nice guy, but i also bought a 2 year extended warranty also, so maybe they can get this issue resolved asap. i just hope i dont get screwed over any more than i already have been

 

[catfish_chaser]

I stand corrected. I looked at the list of the codes. The one I previously listed as p0100 was actually p1000 so I guess the mass air flow sensor doesn't have any issues