Suspension grinding noise, control arm ball joint?

[Bain64]

Happy Friday all. I'm glad the weekend is here and it's time to break out the wrenches.

I've got a metal grinding noise in the suspension only when the steering wheel is turned pretty far (but not locked) and it's worse when coming out of the driveway at an angle. After looking, I found the boot on the upper control arm ball joint (drivers) is bad. However, I cannot find slop in the ball joint when prying on it or using my feet to kick. Nor did I notice slop in other components when prying or using the wheel to pry on the suspension while it was lifted.

I cleaned the boots and added grease to the control arm and outer tie rod ball joints via a grease needle, they may or may not be original suspension parts at 206k miles. The noise remains but I've only driven a couple miles so far. I assume the control arm should be replaced, but how do I better verify that the control arm is bad since I wasn't convinced after pry and concussion tests?

Pictures of the control arm ball joint boot with wheel locked to each side.

 

[1955moose]

Usually when you pry up on a lower ball joint with a pry bar, as you did is the acid test. Ball joints generally make a chunking sound when bad, not to mention the aforementioned play. The upper can be observed by as you did rock tire at 12:00 and 6:00. In most but not all cases when the lower is worn, so is the upper. Have an assistant rock your tire/wheel at 3:00 and 9:00 and observe play in the tie rods, pitman, and idler arm. My idler arm had tons of play, before replacement 2 years back. Ironically the shop that sold me tires said I needed ball joints. I did test 2 days later, upper and lower like new, 0 play. God I hate crooked mechanics! This and lack of funds, led me to be my own mechanic. You mentioned a ticking sound when turning to full lock! That's more likely front CV shafts if 4 wheel drive. Mine does same but is minor at this time. Pull your front wheels again check 4wheel sensors. It's probably real simple when you find it. Report back!

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[Bain64]

I'll get it up in the air again tomorrow, maybe use a bigger pry bar. Can I replace just the boot if the ball is still working ok?

What's the recommended replacement part for the left upper control arm if it does end up being that? The Moog models vary from $65 - $153 depending on if you get the R series or Problem Solver line, or what other brands should I be considering?

 

[1955moose]

Moog seems to be the part of choice. I've always had good luck with them, and like the grease fitting, if oem Ford had that zerk fitting, part life would double. Easiest way is buy the complete upper and lower arms, if available, as they also have the new control arm bushings. You don't want to monkey around pressing in, and out ball joints, and bushings if theirs a quality part ready to go. Machine shops charge quite a bit to press things these days. As far as just installing, new boots, why not! As long as their available separate.

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[Adieu]

Cheaper Moogs are definitely chinese... but seem to work OK

 

[1955moose]

If the budget allows, and your going to keep vehicle, spring for the problem solver, better grade parts. You don't want to repeat this job twice. You know the saying, do it once do it right!

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[Hamfisted]

Check your front sway bar end links too. Disconnect the end links and do the driveway test and see if the noise stops. To replace the upper ball joints you'll get a complete upper A-arm. The lower ball joints can be replaced individually though. But at 200k+ miles I would replace the whole lower A-arm anyway.


-Mike

 

[Bain64]

Thanks guys. It was too cold to mess with it yesterday, we'll see about today... FWIW Friday I pressing on the sway bar links with my feet while lying flat on my back and couldn't get the links to budge, but disconnecting them would be a better test as you note. I was price shopping and researching yesterday, kept adding things to the cart thinking I might as well do the upper, lower, and the links, and might as well refresh the other side while I'm here and all of a sudden it's more than 33% of what I paid for the truck! Whoops, I'll back off on that but, I do hope to keep the truck for years. I've only had it a few weeks now. The rocker panels are rusted away, but the transmission is new and the motor sounds and feels good and interior is great.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If the budget allows, and your going to keep vehicle, spring for the "Problem Solver", better grade parts. You don't want to repeat this job twice. You know the saying, do it once do it right!

The "Problem Solver" upper control arms have been discontinued, but if you shop around online some place still have them in stock.