TRANNY FLUID CHANGE

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cjennjr

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I haven't had my fluid changed in a long time (over 60k miles ago), yet the color of the fluid is still mostly red with no burnt characteristics. I want to drop pan and change filter, but am afraid I will loosen too much gunk and have a big problem down the line. Any recommendations? I have a '98 Ford Expedition 2WD Eddie Bauer with 151k miles. Thanks...
 

ExplorerTom

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Should be fine. It's the "power flushes" that are believed to loosen up that gunk and ruin the transmission shortly after.
 

1997SCEBFEX

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agree with Tom, unless you're completely draining/replacing everything, it's only a portion of the fluid you'll exchange.
 

1955moose

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Any time you go over the recommended time interval, its a gamble. But waiting is worse. As stated change fluid, filter, clean out pan. If your vehicle has the drain able torque converter, I'd drain it too. Make sure you put back the correct fluid, I can't stress that enough. On my 2000, they list regular mercon for the 4 r100 and mercon v semi synthetic for the 4 r75. Check your owners book for what's right for yours.

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Trainmaster

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I had a similar situation with my 2000. I changed the fluid in the pan with no trouble at all. The transmission has over 215K now and is still going strong.
 

1955moose

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I'm coming up on 100k soon, so drains of both coming. Mine was flushed at dealer at 70k. The reason for my flush was to switch over to mercon v. Normally wouldn't flush though. If everyone wasn't so cheap or lazy, and swapped out early ones at 30k, and later 2007 on up at 80-100k, failures would cut way back. Theirs no such thing as a lifetime synthetic. If that was the case you'd go 150k or more on Amsoil/ Mobil 1 oils. Even humans need a flush out after awhile.

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1955moose

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What break in? What year and trans do you have? Models after 2007 are recommended at 150k. We here feel 75-100k is a better bet. Flushing is kinda a gamble on any trans. Flushing can in some cases dislodge debris in pan or valve body. A better way is drain and clean pan, then pop off trans cooler hose while running and refilling to get the remaining 6-7 quarts out. A lot of shops including dealer won't do it that way though.

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Trainmaster

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The later models don't circulate fluid through the cooler lines until the thing is heated up, so the "power flush" that quick-lube shops advertise can't be done on them. So you drop the pan and you'll get 80% of the fluid changed.

I wouldn't change that fluid after "break in". The stuff's expensive, there's a huge filter on the transmission and a magnet in the pan. You should be fine for at least 100K miles unless you're beating the thing up.
 
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