Travel Trailer Recommendations.

[Jesse Sutherland]

We have a 2020 Limited with max tow and just bought a GD Imagine 2800BH. Has towed it very easily. The UVW is 6386 lbs (dry weight) and the GVWR is 7995 lbs. So even fully loaded we have 1300-ish lbs before we hit the limit and I doubt we will ever travel with the tanks full. The trailer has tons of storage and seems to be well made for a travel trailer. We also looked at the 2400BH but loved the extra space of the 2800.

Also, I love Ford's Pro Backup Assist thing. Makes it super easy to back the trailer up.
We call the Expedition Betty White and the trailer is now named Blanche.

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[Dolph Santorine]

The most important thing is the hitch. I’ve towed a 9,000 lb trailer with no problems using a Hensley Arrow hitch. Remember, the tow ratings are variable and capricious based on US or Canada. Have good brakes and tires. Factory brake controller is a must. You have plenty of vehicle for most 34-36 foot trailers.

 

[rvcrzyjeff]

There are many formulas and rules of thumb, based on a little more science then "it tows good" xx length. For instance, one is wheel base of the vehicle, starting at 114" equals a 20' trailer measured tongue to bumper, add 4" wheel base for each additional foot of trailer. We are talking travel trailers here, not boat trailers. Standard expy wheel base that's around 22', a max would be 24'. Now, do people exceed those, all day long, is it safe, depends. I don't why a 10% fudge factor wouldn't work. Another number to remain in the green, is stay under your maximum tow weight by 20%, so for round numbers, at #9,000 tow weight, #7,800 fully loaded. You can not believe one word of manufacturer weights published in brochures, those are mostly marketing numbers. Go look at the sticker on the drivers side of the trailer, it will tell you it's gross weight and the trailers true weight that's going empty out the assembly door, subtract to get your carrying weight, you might be surprised to see how low it is, anywhere from #750 to #1000, goes fast. That total weight, which should include some fresh water so you can use the bathroom while traveling, should remain at 20% below our maximum towing weight. Now take a look at tongue weight, for safe towing the TW should be between 10-15% of the trailer total weight. The TW can be effected by the trailer configuration, axels further back from the tongue will have heavier tongue weights. This TW comes off your payload max. Look at your drivers side door jamb, you can find your payload. This usually is in excess of a #150 driver and full tank of fuel. We have a '19 expy limited max, with HD tow and 4x4. Our payload is a respectable #1,686, higher then some F150s. I've seen some XLTs over #1,800. Subtract all the additional weight going into the expy, what's left has to take not only the TW, but also the heavy weight of the weight distribution hitch on the tongue, another #50+. Find a trailer within these guidelines, loaded properly and you should be safe towing and stopping. Once you find your weights, based on numbers above, then go to the forums of those trailers you like, and you will find true tongue weights and carrying weights. Once armed with true numbers, go look at them, sit in them, imagine being in them on a rainy day, then it will start to come together. I would strongly recommend dual axels on your trailer with so many "littles" depending on you not being stranded on the side of the road, fortunately most trailers in your needs/weight level will be tandem. Another advantage to the smaller trailers are you can find sites that are readily available at 24' and less in the national and state parks. Remember, needs vs wants, helps tone it down in a travel trailer with an expy as the tow vehicle. If you ask many adults, you will be surprised how many have happy family camping days, not many recall last weeks soccer score. You have so many fantastic camping opportunities being in Colorado it's amazing, and the season is much longer then 2-3 months in the summer. HaPpY Rving, take your time, and as Nike says, "Just Do It"

 

[rvcrzyjeff]

Oh, agreed on the Hensley or pro pride style hitches comment above, my numbers are based on the standard weight distribution hitches.

 

[Jeff Morris]

KEYSTONE Outback Ultralite 291 UBH 6601 Dry. Tows great behind 2017 EL w/HD tow.

 

[Ed Fogle]

Rent first? A good option. The experience will give you good insight on what you need and want. Plus planning a big trip right off the bat in a new trailer can lead to big problems. The RV forums are full of threads about the atrocious quality of new units straight from the factory. Many reports of having their new purchase in the shop for more time than out in the first year or two.

Solar prewired? Depends on how much solar you want. I don’t have first hand experience but have read that prewired models have pretty minimal wire gauge. Just enough for one small solar panel. Might just be enough to maintain the battery while in storage.

Extended warranty. They can be very expensive. I normally do not buy them on any product but did on the 7 year old RV I bought 8 years ago. The list price of the warranty was over $5k but the dealer offered it for about $3k so I took it. See above about new TT quality.

Weight? Look at your Expy payload closely. You’re looking at 700-800# tongue weight that has to be subtracted from your payload. Also, a weight distribution hitch is a must.

 

[cullinan18]

I have a 2017 Expy and tow a 2018 Grand Design Imagine 2400BH. The Expy tows and stops just fine, but payload is the biggest challenge. I have just under 1,400#s of payload, so a real world tongue weight of ~850#s, plus hitch, family of 4 + dog, and weight could be an issue. Many people on the FB forums say they see 1,000# tongue weights with the 2800BH.

We love the 2400BH and I am glad we don't have the slightly longer and heavier 2800BH. Personal choice.

 

[Marqui3]

Ok here we go. I am a long time rv owner. I have owned both travel trailers and motorhomes, I also have a class 1 driver’s license, so I am no stranger to towing.
Frankly some of the advice I have seen here is frightening. You can not safely tow most of what you are looking at.
When towing a trailer the important number is your payload capacity. It is on the sticker on your door jamb.
In my case the payload capacity is 1554 lbs.
We own a Rockwood Ultra Lite that weighs between 7000 and 7200 lbs loaded. That puts my tongue weight at 850 lbs minimum for safe towing. (Tongue weight should be between 10 and 15 % of the trailer weight for safe towing or else you will have issues with sway). So that leaves me with 700 lbs of payload. To that, add the weight of your hitch, ( the weight of the weight distributing hitch is not part of the tongue weight) in my case the hitch weighs 100 lbs. So I am now left with 600 lbs of payload. My wife and I weight 375lbs. (Yes I should loose weight). That now leaves 225 lbs in payload capacity. Let’s allow about 100 lbs for tools and other odds and ends that I carry in the cargo area, and we are left with 125 lbs to spare.
So if we had our three kids(grown ups now) we could not tow this trailer safely. As it stands we are probably to close for comfort.
All this to say that the 9000lbs towing capacity is a myth, it does not exist other than on paper.

Our most recent trip was the Alaska highway and the Expedition performed beautifully. It did not meet a hill it did not like. I could make speed up any hill, and there are some steep hills in Alaska. The issue is not pulling power, the Expeditions have power to spare. The issue is weight, carrying and stopping that weight.

That being said we would like to downgrade to a smaller trailer but can’t find one with a floor plan that suits our needs like the one we now own.

For myself I would prefer a trailer that weighs in at less than 6000lbs loaded. That would put us in the 20 to 24 feet range.

Do your due diligence. Visit some rv website. There is good advice to be found there. But be aware, not everyone is an expert. ( I’m not saying I’m an expert, but I do have lots of experience).

Take care and safe travels.

 

[ANDREW B PRICE]

If I was recommending units the Wildwood x-lite 263BHXL is pretty nice a bit heavier and bit nicer is the Wildwood 26DBUD (my personal pick). The "Versa-Lounge" Wildwood uses is incredibly versatile for a family, it's available in both units. THe 10.7 cu.ft. fridge isn't bad either.

 

[fothco]

Hi - we are on our 4th RV - The Extended Warranty did help with H20 leak at front vertical edge seam ; but I used Jayco HQ to ensure repair was their dime . Jayco talks big but .. The Imagines do seem well built . Our 5.4 Expee Max carries the load l watch tongue weight ! Ruins tire very quickly if > 600lbs . Who builds Imagine ? Forest River did not stand by Warranty for leaks around windows . owners must re-do seals annually !! . But - R V Life is fine : so many Lakes , so many folks to meet , so many camp_- Fires etc . Thank You Lord.

 

[CaptOchs]

Interesting, doesn't say anything about it in the Specs, I would have thought so in the safety etc. Thanks.

Lol. Now-a-days 1000lbs popups come with electric brakes! I had a buddy who got one last year and the dealer made him install a brake controller on his Ford Escape!

Back to your original question, many trailer companies fall under the same parent company Thor. Some things are the same, others are different. I have had good luck with Keystone, personally. I have a '18 Springdale 270LE and it's been the best camper I have ever owned. I like the aluminum sided. I have seen too many delaminated fiberglass. I have had a couple hits to the aluminum that probably would have put holes in fiberglass. Whatever you buy, be sure to have some money left over for a quality WD kit. If you end up with a slide, slide toppers are great for keeping water off seals.

I can't speak for the exact campers mentioned, so I'll leave you with this. Join the Facebook groups and ask the questions there. There's a Keystone Owner's group and I'm sure there's a Jayco one. Ask the questions there regarding those models. I'm sure you'll get all the good and bad feedback there. Good luck!

 

[Calidad]

I’m in the same boat sort of... Two kids and absolutely ZERO!!! Interest in owning a tall box trying to be a 1950’s rancher over 20ft long. Look at the Taxa Mantis it might even fit in your garage.. Its the only option I’m considering now. No storage fees, simple enough to easily maintain, provides flexibility for active family etc etc...

Oh and its about roof line height on the Expedition so great towing ability vs the lousy tall boxes.

Its small enough you can find a spot in crowded camps or easily avoid them all together by going off grid CO has lots of great places a giant box isn’t going.

 

[Calidad]

That's cool, thanks. Weird they don't say anything about that on their own page. That's what I was referring to.
Imagine Travel Trailer 2800BH | Grand Design RV

Unfortunately, as I plotted our 2400+ mile trip, I now have come to the realization that there are almost zero camp sites available at really any of the places I would want to stop. So then there that... May be a no go with that.

Had a sweet route put together, with all major stops around 8hrs apart (I think with the young kids, that's about as far as we can go in each leg).

This!!! Is why I will likely buy a vacation home before a camp trailer. I’m not looking for an RV. We have now scrubbed 4 camping trips and booked an Airbnb instead due to crowded camps and no availability.

 

[mark Haasser]

Hi everyone,

We have had the GD imagine 2800bh for 3 seasons. 2 years with a 2007 expedition Eddie Bauer, and last year with a limited stealth 4x4 Max. Like everyone states the Expedition pulls like a beast. I do watch my numbers since my payload is 1674. I has over rear axle, payload, and the 15500 lbs total once last year but I had items not for the trip to drop off with my family on the way through. After that I was under. I CAT scale a lot to make sure a am good. I have a tongue scale at home to measure with that first before I hook up. I figure 750 for wife and my two teens. We travel with nearly nothing in the back of the expedition. It is I feel the most trailer that should be town with this vehicle. We looked at a F350 but we were not ready to lose the third row at the time. There is no way I can run with water in any of the tanks.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

Ok here we go. I am a long time rv owner. I have owned both travel trailers and motorhomes, I also have a class 1 driver’s license, so I am no stranger to towing.
Frankly some of the advice I have seen here is frightening. You can not safely tow most of what you are looking at.
When towing a trailer the important number is your payload capacity. It is on the sticker on your door jamb.
In my case the payload capacity is 1554 lbs.
We own a Rockwood Ultra Lite that weighs between 7000 and 7200 lbs loaded. That puts my tongue weight at 850 lbs minimum for safe towing. (Tongue weight should be between 10 and 15 % of the trailer weight for safe towing or else you will have issues with sway). So that leaves me with 700 lbs of payload. To that, add the weight of your hitch, ( the weight of the weight distributing hitch is not part of the tongue weight) in my case the hitch weighs 100 lbs. So I am now left with 600 lbs of payload. My wife and I weight 375lbs. (Yes I should loose weight). That now leaves 225 lbs in payload capacity. Let’s allow about 100 lbs for tools and other odds and ends that I carry in the cargo area, and we are left with 125 lbs to spare.
So if we had our three kids(grown ups now) we could not tow this trailer safely. As it stands we are probably to close for comfort.
All this to say that the 9000lbs towing capacity is a myth, it does not exist other than on paper.

Our most recent trip was the Alaska highway and the Expedition performed beautifully. It did not meet a hill it did not like. I could make speed up any hill, and there are some steep hills in Alaska. The issue is not pulling power, the Expeditions have power to spare. The issue is weight, carrying and stopping that weight.

That being said we would like to downgrade to a smaller trailer but can’t find one with a floor plan that suits our needs like the one we now own.

For myself I would prefer a trailer that weighs in at less than 6000lbs loaded. That would put us in the 20 to 24 feet range.

Do your due diligence. Visit some rv website. There is good advice to be found there. But be aware, not everyone is an expert. ( I’m not saying I’m an expert, but I do have lots of experience).

Take care and safe travels.

This is GREAT information.

To add to this, the tongue weight listed on a manufacturers website is usually dry, meaning no propane, battery weight, or front cargo was considered. In most cases, you can add another 70-100+ pounds (single versus double propane and battery).

A lot of people add a bike carrier system to the tongue of their trailers. That can easily add another 100 pounds to the tongue.

Floor designs can impact. A recent couple videos by Big Truck Big RV on YouTube surprised him and the dealer employees on how heavy some tongues were, especially on the toy haulers — one was 1300 pound tongue weight EMPTY.

The past couple years, I have see many new owners out there pulling rigs that should have no business behind their tow vehicle. Sadly, the dealers allow them to pull them off the lot.

In another group I belong to, a woman is considering adding a rooftop tent to her 4Runner so the kids did not have to sleep in the tent as they are becoming “difficult” teenagers. In case you were not aware, 4Runner are known to have atrociously bad payload. I think it came out where hers is something like 866 pounds and she is already using about 500 for the hitch and tongue weight of the camper. Add her, the two kids, and cargo, she is well beyond the payload... and now she wants to add a 200+ pound rooftop tent. SMDH


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[Rj Smith]

Ok here we go. I am a long time rv owner. I have owned both travel trailers and motorhomes, I also have a class 1 driver’s license, so I am no stranger to towing.
Frankly some of the advice I have seen here is frightening. You can not safely tow most of what you are looking at.
When towing a trailer the important number is your payload capacity. It is on the sticker on your door jamb.
In my case the payload capacity is 1554 lbs.
We own a Rockwood Ultra Lite that weighs between 7000 and 7200 lbs loaded. That puts my tongue weight at 850 lbs minimum for safe towing. (Tongue weight should be between 10 and 15 % of the trailer weight for safe towing or else you will have issues with sway). So that leaves me with 700 lbs of payload. To that, add the weight of your hitch, ( the weight of the weight distributing hitch is not part of the tongue weight) in my case the hitch weighs 100 lbs. So I am now left with 600 lbs of payload. My wife and I weight 375lbs. (Yes I should loose weight). That now leaves 225 lbs in payload capacity. Let’s allow about 100 lbs for tools and other odds and ends that I carry in the cargo area, and we are left with 125 lbs to spare.
So if we had our three kids(grown ups now) we could not tow this trailer safely. As it stands we are probably to close for comfort.
All this to say that the 9000lbs towing capacity is a myth, it does not exist other than on paper.

Our most recent trip was the Alaska highway and the Expedition performed beautifully. It did not meet a hill it did not like. I could make speed up any hill, and there are some steep hills in Alaska. The issue is not pulling power, the Expeditions have power to spare. The issue is weight, carrying and stopping that weight.

That being said we would like to downgrade to a smaller trailer but can’t find one with a floor plan that suits our needs like the one we now own.

For myself I would prefer a trailer that weighs in at less than 6000lbs loaded. That would put us in the 20 to 24 feet range.

Do your due diligence. Visit some rv website. There is good advice to be found there. But be aware, not everyone is an expert. ( I’m not saying I’m an expert, but I do have lots of experience).

Take care and safe travels.

Informative post but aren't you double counting driver weight? I thought the CCC included 150lb driver and full tank of gas. If so, then you technically would 275lbs to spare.
EDIT: I was incorrect. The confusion between the 150lb driver and/or fuel arises from the Towing Capacity (not the payload capacity). Thanks for keeping us straight. Payload does already account for full of fluids, but not people or things in/on the cargo.

 

[Lou Hamilton]

Informative post but aren't you double counting driver weight? I thought the CCC included 150lb driver and full tank of gas. If so, then you technically would 275lbs to spare.

The payload value on the door sticker doesn’t include the driver, but does include the fuel.

Payload = GVWR - Curb Weight (empty vehicle plus fuel and other liquids that make the vehicle run)

Some vehicles, note the cargo capacity of a vehicle includes a driver. Others include driver and passenger. I have also seen where it includes the driver and 50 pounds of cargo.

If your vehicle doesn’t have a door sticker with payload, your owner manual should have rough numbers for guidance.


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[Matthew Marlowe]

Last I researched, payload stickers assume single 150lb driver and mimimal gas (not full tank)... but everyone claims something different.



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[Rj Smith]

The payload value on the door sticker doesn’t include the driver, but does include the fuel.

Payload = GVWR - Curb Weight (empty vehicle plus fuel and other liquids that make the vehicle run)

Some vehicles, note the cargo capacity of a vehicle includes a driver. Others include driver and passenger. I have also seen where it includes the driver and 50 pounds of cargo.

If your vehicle doesn’t have a door sticker with payload, your owner manual should have rough numbers for guidance.


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You're right, I found it in the Ford Manual. The confusion between the 150lb driver and/or fuel arises from the Towing Capacity (not the payload capacity). Thanks for keeping us straight. Payload does already account for full of fluids, but not people or things in/on the cargo.

 

[Fasttimes]

Ok here we go. I am a long time rv owner. I have owned both travel trailers and motorhomes, I also have a class 1 driver’s license, so I am no stranger to towing.
Frankly some of the advice I have seen here is frightening. You can not safely tow most of what you are looking at.
When towing a trailer the important number is your payload capacity. It is on the sticker on your door jamb.
In my case the payload capacity is 1554 lbs.
We own a Rockwood Ultra Lite that weighs between 7000 and 7200 lbs loaded. That puts my tongue weight at 850 lbs minimum for safe towing. (Tongue weight should be between 10 and 15 % of the trailer weight for safe towing or else you will have issues with sway). So that leaves me with 700 lbs of payload. To that, add the weight of your hitch, ( the weight of the weight distributing hitch is not part of the tongue weight) in my case the hitch weighs 100 lbs. So I am now left with 600 lbs of payload. My wife and I weight 375lbs. (Yes I should loose weight). That now leaves 225 lbs in payload capacity. Let’s allow about 100 lbs for tools and other odds and ends that I carry in the cargo area, and we are left with 125 lbs to spare.
So if we had our three kids(grown ups now) we could not tow this trailer safely. As it stands we are probably to close for comfort.
All this to say that the 9000lbs towing capacity is a myth, it does not exist other than on paper.

Our most recent trip was the Alaska highway and the Expedition performed beautifully. It did not meet a hill it did not like. I could make speed up any hill, and there are some steep hills in Alaska. The issue is not pulling power, the Expeditions have power to spare. The issue is weight, carrying and stopping that weight.

That being said we would like to downgrade to a smaller trailer but can’t find one with a floor plan that suits our needs like the one we now own.

For myself I would prefer a trailer that weighs in at less than 6000lbs loaded. That would put us in the 20 to 24 feet range.

Do your due diligence. Visit some rv website. There is good advice to be found there. But be aware, not everyone is an expert. ( I’m not saying I’m an expert, but I do have lots of experience).

Take care and safe travels.

Right on point here with this info. Like many, I had no real idea when I bought my TT and was more focused on the towing capacity numbers when in fact the payload is really the limiting factor when it comes to our Expys. We pull a Winnebago Ultralite 27RBDS trailer and I feel it's right at the limit of my 2010 Eddie Bauer with HD tow. 30' overall length, 6300 dry weight, 760 hitch weight. Using a 10,000# Equalizer WDH setup. Took me a good year to get that dialed in correctly, but now that it is it's working great. Also max-filling my tires on the truck also helped as well.

But I have also put my camping needs on a diet to trim cargo weight. When I first got my TT I went out and got a huge nice Coleman Roadtrip grill and traveling case, a nice big folding camp kitchen table, and nice big lounger chairs. All put in that large TT cargo hold. But now that I know my payload capacity is often at the limit I have ditched those items in lieu of lighter versions. Ditched the heavy grill and now bring a small tabletop grill. Ditched the table, don't need it, can use campsite picnic tables. And I'm mindful of my propane tanks fill level. In the beginning I was keeping my two 30lb tanks nearly full. Now, I keep one empty and the other half full, it lasts much longer than I need anyways and thus saving weight on that tongue. I can't justify the price now, but looking forward to the day where the much lighter lithium 12v batteries come more affordable because that will be another nice weight savings.

All those weight savings really made a noticeable difference in how the setup feels while driving down the road and especially the feel of cross winds from passing rigs and vehicles. The truck and trailer feel more planted and secure, which makes for a much more pleasant drive.