Agreed, I think it would look Really Good. My wife would love that color!
What did you do to the expy today
- Thread starter cleaningman94
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Agreed, I think it would look Really Good. My wife would love that color!
Got my Hi-lift 60" Xtreme Jack in today.man glad to have something that doesn't require a 4x4 block to get my rig off the ground.
This thing is a beast to boy.
Was thinking of mounting it on the hood close to the windshield but not sure now may end up going down the side of my Yakima roof rack.
If I do the hood mounting then I can make my own mounts and save $60.
Or spend $60 for the rack mounts..lol
But I'm not feeling this dark grey color of the Hi-lift and sure did not want red so I may end up painting the whole thing Black.
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This thing is a beast to boy.
Was thinking of mounting it on the hood close to the windshield but not sure now may end up going down the side of my Yakima roof rack.
If I do the hood mounting then I can make my own mounts and save $60.
Or spend $60 for the rack mounts..lol
But I'm not feeling this dark grey color of the Hi-lift and sure did not want red so I may end up painting the whole thing Black.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
Well I’ll be damned, the higher ups promoted you twice in one week.
JExpedition07
That One Member
Replaced the driveshaft assembly:
Part #:
Part:
New/old comparison:
Part #:
Part:
New/old comparison:
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justKen
Active Member
Found the vacuum leak in the plastic supply line for the front axle actuator.
Cut out the section that had become hard & brittle on both the 2wd and 4wd lines/ buttoned it up with rubber vacuum tubing.
My "rathers" would be that the t-case is swapped for a manual, floor shift t-case from an F150, as well as a move from the vacuum-operated diaphragm that moves the axle connect sleeve to one being manually/ cable-operated.
As much as I really like the Expedition, I'm really on the fence right now if I want to build us an Excursion, but for the near future I'm going through to make sure everything is ready for winter.
/K
Cut out the section that had become hard & brittle on both the 2wd and 4wd lines/ buttoned it up with rubber vacuum tubing.
My "rathers" would be that the t-case is swapped for a manual, floor shift t-case from an F150, as well as a move from the vacuum-operated diaphragm that moves the axle connect sleeve to one being manually/ cable-operated.
As much as I really like the Expedition, I'm really on the fence right now if I want to build us an Excursion, but for the near future I'm going through to make sure everything is ready for winter.
/K
Race Red (PQ) is a fleet only color. Per the book its only available for fleet XL model, probably intended for fire departments.
Acknowledging all Expeditions come down the same KY paint & assembly line, the dealership GSM said it was doable, so the fleet manager ordered. I have a body modifier FIN code and have ordered via fleet thru him in the past. Our best guess was strong retail sales & order backlog made the truck unattractive to somebody in production mgmt.
Race Red standard length shown below. A set of wheels, window tint, and ditching the running boards would dramatically change the trucks appearance IMO.
Ruby red, although nice, just doesn't do it for us.
They dont sell em cuz it looks too cheap
cdahlen
Well-Known Member
Where did you get the puddle lights from?
2014 EL, 75K miles --->Had pulsating brakes coming down the mountains in Colorado last month ... so I had new (DuraGo coated) rotors & Wagner Perfect Stop (ceramic) pads installed on front wheels. Rears look fine. Also had 8 new plugs installed, and NYS inspection. Plugs were not due until 100K but I like doing it a bit earlier. Can't hurt.
$706 at my favorite shop. I would have done the work myself but don't have time right now with other priorities. Its OK to support small American businesses, the backbone of this great country of ours!!
$706 at my favorite shop. I would have done the work myself but don't have time right now with other priorities. Its OK to support small American businesses, the backbone of this great country of ours!!
JExpedition07
That One Member
Changed oil and T-Case fluid......T-Case fluid had plenty of metal shavings.......great!!!!!
What am I gonna do you ask? Absolutely nothing. Everything worked before works after and 4WD still works great so I’m pretending I never saw it.
What am I gonna do you ask? Absolutely nothing. Everything worked before works after and 4WD still works great so I’m pretending I never saw it.
gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
I'm hoping to do my T case next weekend. Im expecting to find the same but hopefully not.
How much fluid did you use? I have 2 quarts here but not sure if thats enough
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JExpedition07
That One Member
About 2 quarts. I’d imagine 4Auto mode is hard on the T-Case in these trucks.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
So I re evaluated the bottom of my drain pan with a fresh set of eyes, while it isn’t loaded with shavings they are present on the bottom in small traces. I poored out most of the fluid into the quarts and there is very few glitter shavings on the bottom, most of what I thought to be shavings are actually small bubbles (pan was sitting outside and wet likely mixed with trans fluid). I was rushing off when doing this as I had to be somewhere and get the truck back together quick, so I didn’t have much time to check it out. I talked to a buddy who is a pretty high up mechanic at a large RV retailer. He asked me the size and color of the shavings as well as amount....he said with the mileage if it hadn’t been changed much he expects shavings. I told him what I saw and he said not to worry and to keep on driving it with the new fluid. I plan on doing just that, whatever happens happens.
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ManUpOrShutUp
Full Access Members
I changed the air filter and cleaned the MAF while I was there. Oil change done a couple days ago. Tomorrow my new blend door actuator will be here and hopefully, this place sent me the right part so I can do that before the weekend.
* Cleaned my negative battery post/terminal while it was disconnected and now my ECM voltage reads about 0.4v higher.
* Cleaned my negative battery post/terminal while it was disconnected and now my ECM voltage reads about 0.4v higher.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
I agree, the 2018 Edge sport is the way to go. The 2019 Edge ST is FUGLY! 18’ exterior design looks so much better than the new one.
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Yep! One thing that caught my attention on my 2016 was the wrap around rear taillight. It has condensation issues. Instead of Ford fixing their manufacturing process to fix it, they went to smaller non wraparound units, because it will cost them less to replace.
The ST does have some tweaks that have really started to be confirmed this week. Stiffer AntiRoll Bars, stiffer springs, new shocks(Current ones on Sport have issues with leaking at less than 30K), and some additional drive modes. That is in addition to the optional performance brake kit already confirmed and the 8 Speed trans.
Still agree they messed up the front end though! I want the looks of my Current sport with some of the other tweaks!
JExpedition07
That One Member
They did the same to the Mustang, added a lot of nice equipment but they messed up the front end IMO.....they had a really great look going from 15-17. Best looking muscle car on the market I thought and then boom the 2018 catfish design came....
Before (15-17):
After (2018+):
RenegadeBad_Dog
Full Access Members
Tint is done
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
JExpedition07
That One Member
So did you ever get to it.
ManUpOrShutUp
Full Access Members
A couple weeks ago I tried to replace the RH blend door actuator only to find out I had been sent the incorrect part (after I removed the original part). Today I finally received the correct part, so this evening I set out to install it. It didn't go so smoothly this time.
Getting the old one out was np until I got to the plug. The plug, which came out easily last time, was stuck this time. Once I finally got it out, I figured the rest would be clear sailing. I laid the new part in and ... f**k, it doesn't line up. Now I've got to plug everything back in just to get the piece that connects to the actuator to reset into the proper position. As I pull my arm out of the dash though, I bump the flashlight that was sitting on top of the factory amp and it goes plummeting down into the abyss (inside the dash). Luckily, it was still on so and fell in such a way that the end was pretty easy to reach from the lower part of the center panel.
Now I get back to reconnecting everything and after running it in ACC for a moment and hearing the piece moving, I shut it off and start pulling everything back out. I try again with the new part and now it lines up. Whew! I carefully thread the screws back in, using 2 hands for the one in the back as I really don't want to drop the damn thing into the abyss. I get them both in, tightening the front one with a socket wrench and the rear w/ an open end wrench. Neither my hand nor my arm really fit back there though and I'm having a really hard time getting that screw snugged all the way down. My hands starting to cramp up too, so I'm worried about dropping the wrench. I decide it would be easier and safer to try and finish up with the socket wrench. I get a couple turns in and then ... the tiny socket wrench slips out of my hand and falls into the dash. Fuuuuuuuddddgggge!!
I spent the next 20 minutes trying to find the damn thing using my flashlight and an inspection mirror. I finally spot it at the very bottom of the dash in an area that I can't possibly reach. Wait! I notice some plastic clips in the driver footwell towards the back of the center stack. I yank those and am able to get the side panel pulled out just enough to stick my hand in there and (barely) pull the wrench out with my fingertips. Now I finally get back to finishing the actual job and thankfully, it goes smoothly from there. I run the HVAC and everything functions as it should with no more clicking. Next time I work through the dash like that I think I'm going to run some fishing line or something around my tools. :x
Getting the old one out was np until I got to the plug. The plug, which came out easily last time, was stuck this time. Once I finally got it out, I figured the rest would be clear sailing. I laid the new part in and ... f**k, it doesn't line up. Now I've got to plug everything back in just to get the piece that connects to the actuator to reset into the proper position. As I pull my arm out of the dash though, I bump the flashlight that was sitting on top of the factory amp and it goes plummeting down into the abyss (inside the dash). Luckily, it was still on so and fell in such a way that the end was pretty easy to reach from the lower part of the center panel.
Now I get back to reconnecting everything and after running it in ACC for a moment and hearing the piece moving, I shut it off and start pulling everything back out. I try again with the new part and now it lines up. Whew! I carefully thread the screws back in, using 2 hands for the one in the back as I really don't want to drop the damn thing into the abyss. I get them both in, tightening the front one with a socket wrench and the rear w/ an open end wrench. Neither my hand nor my arm really fit back there though and I'm having a really hard time getting that screw snugged all the way down. My hands starting to cramp up too, so I'm worried about dropping the wrench. I decide it would be easier and safer to try and finish up with the socket wrench. I get a couple turns in and then ... the tiny socket wrench slips out of my hand and falls into the dash. Fuuuuuuuddddgggge!!
I spent the next 20 minutes trying to find the damn thing using my flashlight and an inspection mirror. I finally spot it at the very bottom of the dash in an area that I can't possibly reach. Wait! I notice some plastic clips in the driver footwell towards the back of the center stack. I yank those and am able to get the side panel pulled out just enough to stick my hand in there and (barely) pull the wrench out with my fingertips. Now I finally get back to finishing the actual job and thankfully, it goes smoothly from there. I run the HVAC and everything functions as it should with no more clicking. Next time I work through the dash like that I think I'm going to run some fishing line or something around my tools. :x
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