Randy
Active Member
I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic for a while now and wanted to ask the Forum which oil filter is the best to work with the synthetic oils?
Which Oil filter for Synthetic?
- Thread starter Randy
- Start date
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green03
Full Access Members
The factory ford filter is the best for the money. I think most of the filters are the same as the Purolator Pure one synthetic filters.
I use Mobil 1 5W30 with the factory filter FL820S and change the filter at 3000 miles and run the oil till 6000 then change both.
Matt R
I use Mobil 1 5W30 with the factory filter FL820S and change the filter at 3000 miles and run the oil till 6000 then change both.
Matt R
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ELVATO
Full Access Members
Here's what I use for mine.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=6902
AMSOIL oil filter (apparently guaranteed to 25k miles) along with Mobile 1 5W30. Will be changing both at 6000 miles.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/detail.aspx?ID=6902
AMSOIL oil filter (apparently guaranteed to 25k miles) along with Mobile 1 5W30. Will be changing both at 6000 miles.
newtofords
Full Access Members
How do you change the filter, and leave the oil in for an extra 3000 miles? Won't it all leak out on you after you screw the filter off?
green03
Full Access Members
nope. Just what's in the filter and a little bit extra is all you have to replace by changing the filter (around 1/2 quart). The fl820s is just too short of a filter to have enough surface area to go the distance in my opinion. I have been thinking about doing a remote mount filter kit and doing an old school full size filter like a fl1A. I beat on mine mercilessly though normal driving probably doesn't need the oil system maintence like mine...
Matt R
Matt R
pronstar
Full Access Members
Moha needs to get banned and posts removed...
pronstar
Full Access Members
I like the K&N filters. A bit pricey, but made pretty tough and the filer media & ADB valve are quality.
The best part: they put a nut on the end so you can use a socket to remove it...though you shouldn't put it on so tight at any rate (though sometimes things happen)
The best part: they put a nut on the end so you can use a socket to remove it...though you shouldn't put it on so tight at any rate (though sometimes things happen)
ELVATO
Full Access Members
Kinnda reviving this old thread, but I just got my oil changed. Sad thing is I didn't even know how many miles I had on it. As you can see from my previous post, I had Mobile 1 5W-30 and an Amsoil filter. It was either 7,000 or 10,000.
Decided to take it to have it changed for me, since it was going to rain. Went to Wal-mart, bought some 5W-30 Truck & SUV Mobile 1, along with a Mobile 1 filter. Went to the oil change place. Since I brought my own stuff, they discounted 5 dollars off the 29$ for an oil change. :s
The guy pulled the dipstick, and told me that based on the color, I had "burnt" the oil. Apparently, I was a quart of a quart under. He said I probably had sludge in there, and that I should get a flush for another 15 dollars. :s He also said that I should go back to Wal-mart and get 5W-20, since that was what the engine was made to use (something about small portholes in the engine.)
Went back, got some 5W-20, and returned back to the oil place.
Total: 45 for the oil change and flush.
43 for the oil and filter (and Stoners glass cleaner
)
So this ended up being one of the more expensive oil changes I have gotten. From now on, I'm definately sticking to doing it my own self.
So yea, this all brings me to this point.
I see some of you guys have the 5W-30. I always thought that it was better to use that. But the guy insisted that "the Ford engineers know best," and to use the 5W-20.
Even though I know that I was pushing it with the 7,000 miles (or 10,000 miles), I thought that the Mobile 1 would be able to take it without sludging.
I know it's hard to "diagnose" but could there be a possibility that maybe the dark color was from possible sludging from previous "dino/syn blend" oils?
Thank you in advance for your responses.
Decided to take it to have it changed for me, since it was going to rain. Went to Wal-mart, bought some 5W-30 Truck & SUV Mobile 1, along with a Mobile 1 filter. Went to the oil change place. Since I brought my own stuff, they discounted 5 dollars off the 29$ for an oil change. :s
The guy pulled the dipstick, and told me that based on the color, I had "burnt" the oil. Apparently, I was a quart of a quart under. He said I probably had sludge in there, and that I should get a flush for another 15 dollars. :s He also said that I should go back to Wal-mart and get 5W-20, since that was what the engine was made to use (something about small portholes in the engine.)
Went back, got some 5W-20, and returned back to the oil place.
Total: 45 for the oil change and flush.
43 for the oil and filter (and Stoners glass cleaner
)So this ended up being one of the more expensive oil changes I have gotten. From now on, I'm definately sticking to doing it my own self.
So yea, this all brings me to this point.
I see some of you guys have the 5W-30. I always thought that it was better to use that. But the guy insisted that "the Ford engineers know best," and to use the 5W-20.
Even though I know that I was pushing it with the 7,000 miles (or 10,000 miles), I thought that the Mobile 1 would be able to take it without sludging.
I know it's hard to "diagnose" but could there be a possibility that maybe the dark color was from possible sludging from previous "dino/syn blend" oils?
Thank you in advance for your responses.
pronstar
Full Access Members
5W20 is the spec to improve fuel efficiency to help meet CAFE standards.
Note that the spec used to be 5W30, for identical engines.
BTW - I ran 10W30 in my Expy from day one.
That being said, there is some liability involved, and I doubt any reputable place will put oil in that isn't factory-spec. And I can't say that I blame them.
Never, ever trust a Wally World mechanic. I can't possibly beleive that they are more knowledgeable than you are... and don't waste your dough on an engine flush next time
Many used oil analysis have indicated M1 will go beyond 10K miles in modern engines. No way to tell for sure without sending your oil to Blackstone or some other lab, but I gurantee you that there is no way in hell you can tell if motor oil is bad or "burned" just by looking at it or smelling it.
But ALL oil gets dark. Color is practically meaningless. These engines are't prone to sludging, not unless you never change it.
7,000 miles is within the change interval for your engine anyways (it should be 7,500 miles), and you should have asked Mr. Wally World mechanic:
- Why would it be burnt within the change interval recommended by Ford? The Ford engineers know best. You said so yourself.
- Ford doesn't recommend sludge removal. And they don't recommend any such additive. The Ford engineers know best. You said so yourself.
Note that the spec used to be 5W30, for identical engines.
BTW - I ran 10W30 in my Expy from day one.
That being said, there is some liability involved, and I doubt any reputable place will put oil in that isn't factory-spec. And I can't say that I blame them.
Never, ever trust a Wally World mechanic. I can't possibly beleive that they are more knowledgeable than you are... and don't waste your dough on an engine flush next time
Many used oil analysis have indicated M1 will go beyond 10K miles in modern engines. No way to tell for sure without sending your oil to Blackstone or some other lab, but I gurantee you that there is no way in hell you can tell if motor oil is bad or "burned" just by looking at it or smelling it.
But ALL oil gets dark. Color is practically meaningless. These engines are't prone to sludging, not unless you never change it.
7,000 miles is within the change interval for your engine anyways (it should be 7,500 miles), and you should have asked Mr. Wally World mechanic:
- Why would it be burnt within the change interval recommended by Ford? The Ford engineers know best. You said so yourself.
- Ford doesn't recommend sludge removal. And they don't recommend any such additive. The Ford engineers know best. You said so yourself.
ELVATO
Full Access Members
Damn it. I knew I remember 5W20 was only for fuel economy. Nothing wrong with using it though, right?
It wasn't a Walmart mechanic, it was a Havoline (Valvoline?) oil change place. But the guy looked like he was in college (maybe UCF?) He's like, that's what I run in my truck, an F150 (the M1 5W20 with a M1 filter.)
Well, there goes the engine flush money, well, flushed down the toilet (sorry, couldn't resist )
BTW, I think the interval was closer to 10k than to 7k, but as you said, that should still be good.
I was going to do an oil analysis, but he said "you don't need an oil analysis, I can tell you, you have sludge in there." I was going to do it anyways, but then he said that with the flushing, I probably won't get an accurate reading. Well, I'll have to wait another 6k miles... unless I get a pump to get the oil out.
Well, all I have to blame is myself for letting myself be "convinced," and for being lazy and hasty for not waiting and doing it myself some other day.
BTW, if this last oil change was my first fully synthetic, could there be a possibility that it "cleaned" my system of any crud that may have been left from previous dino/syn blends?
Thanks for the info
It wasn't a Walmart mechanic, it was a Havoline (Valvoline?) oil change place. But the guy looked like he was in college (maybe UCF?) He's like, that's what I run in my truck, an F150 (the M1 5W20 with a M1 filter.)
Well, there goes the engine flush money, well, flushed down the toilet (sorry, couldn't resist
)BTW, I think the interval was closer to 10k than to 7k, but as you said, that should still be good.
I was going to do an oil analysis, but he said "you don't need an oil analysis, I can tell you, you have sludge in there." I was going to do it anyways, but then he said that with the flushing, I probably won't get an accurate reading. Well, I'll have to wait another 6k miles... unless I get a pump to get the oil out.
Well, all I have to blame is myself for letting myself be "convinced," and for being lazy and hasty for not waiting and doing it myself some other day.
BTW, if this last oil change was my first fully synthetic, could there be a possibility that it "cleaned" my system of any crud that may have been left from previous dino/syn blends?
Thanks for the info
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pronstar
Full Access Members
Originally posted by ELVATO
Damn it. I knew I remember 5W20 was only for fuel economy. Nothing wrong with using it though, right?
BTW, if this last oil change was my first fully synthetic, could there be a possibility that it "cleaned" my system of any crud that may have been left from previous dino/syn blends?
Thanks for the info
Nothing wrong at all with using the factory spec oil. I would use it with confidence.
Any crud would likely be suspended in the oil. Most oils have detergents in them, synthetics or otherwise.
Some folks note that synthetics may provide an additional cleansing action. Sounds plausible, though I can't say for sure.
I've seen immaculate engine internals from folks who've used dino oil with regular changes, and I've seen the same from folks who've used synthetics.
IMHO the greatest benefits for a synthetic are extended drain intervals, and improved extreme-temperature performance. To what degree, though, is hard to say. Many people use dino oils to great effect, so it's a tough argument to make.
ELVATO
Full Access Members
Ok, thanks for the info.
