Ok this subject has been discussed 100 times. Slow speed (parking lot speed) turning gives be a distinctive grinding or binding at the front hub ends. even very slight turning angles or anything other than dead straight give the same results. I have new front hubs but havent replaced the IWE's...
I think if anything it will cause the high pressure fuel pump to fail early. All these new DI motors run at crazy high pressures 3600-3800psi +. Imagine all that pressure stopping and starting abruptly? Injectors, pumps and other fuel system problems would be my guess? starters are durability...
Thank you for clarifying that, I was about to call my Ford guy. The way they explained to me last time was genuine Ford at the dealers is OEM and their Motorcraft line services the aftermarket and serves as a slightly lower cost alternative at the parts counter.
Regards
I think most would be surprised to see that genuine Ford or Motorcraft parts are very comparable in price to some of the aftermarket junk you might find at local parts stores. There is a lot of stuff coming from China made with poor material quality, fit and finish that pass off as OEM...
sometimes minor bubbles are normal when looking into the de-gass bottle and revving motor, it could just be agitation from the water pump, dont be too quick to rule it as a headgasket issue. look for the obvious tell-tale signs of residual oil on upper de-gass bottle or foamy residue under oil...
Do not use Mercon V for p/s fluid, only regular Mercon, Ford is very specific about this. Also would not use that generic multi-purpose Dex/Merc fluid. Use the correct Motorcraft fluid. It is very inexpensive.
Is the 5 star tuner available through Summit? might give me chance to charge something on my card. I need a little bump in power since I'm running oversize wheels and tires..
3 valve motors have cam phasers (not needed) a more aggressive EGR pumping into the intake and a few other things all in the interest of running "cleaner"
My 2 valve 04' has 188K miles and runs like a champ, i have had since it had 14K miles and the only failures i can think of were ignition...
If you have a good strong battery, leaving it sitting in an indoor garage for 3 to 4 weeks should not even be an issue? should not not need to disconnect. And if its a little slow to start up, so you throw your charger on it for 30 minutes @ 10 amps.
Now if your battery is old and so so, then...
those are all easy things to fix/replace.. if it were mine i would start with compression test and make sure you have a good baseline motor before starting with those repairs.
i get approx 16-17 tops with my 4x4 5.4L, 15.8 is absolutely normal, maintain proper tire pressures and make sure have clean air filter and plugs, obviously those small things matter to eke out an extra mpg or 2. good luck and nice choice in truck!
Why dont you remove the piston from the caliper and check the square cut seal, it might have rolled from whoever rebuilt it. sounds like an issue with either the internal piston seal or the guides are lot clean and lubed.
putting it off for 2 years?! The minute my old truck has anything wrong with it (engine related) i'm pulling it into my shop that same night. But that's just me..
good luck with your troubleshooting.
With leaks from the pipe in the valley it wouldnt be that severe as to leak a whole gallon in 10 days! The ones we have seen are just minor seepage and maybe light puddling in the block valley.
I don't see why you couldn't get 350K miles + before anything major happens, seems a good choice for a new driver assuming he's responsible
Do the initial repairs to get him going and future repairs will need be handled by it's new driver/user. He should get a lot of good use out of it once...
A flashing MIL lamp almost always will indicate one or more misfiring cylinders, it flashes to warn you to stop or risk damaging or melting down your cats.
As some of the other members have mentioned, a quality scanner might be needed to narrow down whether you have an ignition or fuel related...
I have never run the specified 5W20 oil in my rig, are you kidding, pulling a heavy boat uphill in 100+ degree weather with a full load of kids and gear running the A/C and you think that 5W20 that is thin as water when it is super heated is going to protect my motor?!? No thanks, with 180K...
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