This is merely a guide for a process that worked for me. I am not responsible, if while following these steps, something is broken or damaged. Alright well I've seen a few How-To's around here but nothing with a great deal of actual on vehicle pictures. Also I have not seen any on the later model Expedition's. So here is a 'How-To' from what I did this afternoon (well now yesterday)... Vehicle: 2005 Expedition 5.4L, Eddie Bauer w/towing package (includes transmission cooler) Time for Flush & Fill: 2-3hrs Time for filter change: Additional 30min Time for plug install: Additional 15min Required Parts & Part Numbers: 14qts XT-5-QMC, Motorcraft Mecron V, Automatic Transmission Fluid & Powersteering Fluid (Note: I picked up 18qts as a precaution, Tousley Ford, $3.80 a quart) F2VY-7A191-A, Ford Transmission Pan Gasket (Note: Pan gasket is re-usable, however I purchased it as a precaution in the event mine was damaged, Tousley Ford, $18.15) F6AZ-7A098-A, Ford Transmission Filter (Tousley Ford, $17.71) 80250, B&M Automatic Transmission Drain Plug Kit (O'Reilly Auto Parts, $9.99, which they normally stock) I'm not advertising for Tousley Ford, but I have found them to have the lowest prices around and are amazing to deal with. Tousley Ford Parts Website is:http://www.trademotion.com/PARTLOCATOR/INDEX.CFM?SITEID=214771, if you call (1-800-328-9552) request to talk with Steve and ask for the SVT group discount (same as website pricing). (Note: Old gasket shown over new one) Required Tools for Flush & Fill: 7/8" Wrench 15qt Drain Pan Long Ended Funnel Measuring cup (large enough to show a full quart, an old oil quart container will work as well) Creeper (nice to have, but not necessary) Remote start (nice to have) Second person (if remote start not installed) Required Tools for Filter Change: 10mm socket 10" extension Ratchet (corresponding to chosen socket/extension of course) Torque Wrench (capable of 14 N-m/10.33 lbf-ft/123.9 lbf-in) Require Tools for Pan Drain Plug Kit Install: 3/4" Socket 3/4" Wrench 11mm Socket Torque Wrench (capable of 25 N-m/18.44 lbf-ft/221.3 lbf-in) Drill 1/2" Drill Bit Magnet (I used the one from the pan ) Draining the Fluid: Alright to start place the truck on a level surface and put the shifter into Park. Jack up the front end of the truck enough so that you can place two jack stands under the truck, one on each frame rail. I also chose to place another one underneath the passenger side lower control arm at the pivot point as a back up measure (to each there own). Next locate the transmission cooler on the passenger side directly behind the radiator. See pictures below. Note that if you do not have the factory towing package with the transmission cooler you will need to disconnect the line going to the radiator side tank. I believe this would be the line going to the top of the side tank, but I am not certain (this would also involve adding an extension tube to funnel the fluid to the drain pan). Looking from driverside across to the passenger side: Closeup: Place the drain pan underneath the cooler and disconnect the fitting on the right hand side of the picture above. To do so you will need the 7/8" wrench. It should not be on very tight and should take little force to loosen it. Be careful not to damage the o-ring seal on the fitting. Now this is where having a remote start is nice, if not you may want to grab another person to help you out. I was lucky enough to have a remote start installed on my truck so I could start it and stop it while working underneath. Grab the line you disconnected and point the fitting down at the drain pan and then start the truck. Watch the oil flowing out once it starts to sputter, shut the truck off. I place the fitting up onto the other line connected to the cooler (facing up) to keep it from constantly dripping while I continue to work.