Brake upgrades...

[ExplorerTom]

On my 2000, I started with Hawk LTS on all 4 corners. Liked them. When the fronts wore out I went with EBC Orangestuff. When the rears wear out, probably about the same time as the fronts again, I'll do Orangestuff all around.

I used to autox and do road courses (different vehicle). Short of actual race brake pads, the Hawk LTS and Orangestuff work great. Cold or spiritedly coming down a canyon.

EBC Greenstuff have been good to me, but on smaller vehicles. I think I'd go Yellowstuff for "regular" people. The Orangestuff are pretty aggressive and really dusty- but they stop great.

 

[JExpedition07]

I've replaced all my rotors front and rear with motorcraft high level surface rotors and ceramic pads from powerstop definitely an improvement. My fronts were not even old at all, but warping already and scoring as they were cheap replacements and I'm not even sure they changed the pads when I had them done so I redid them again with new pads. I decided to stop fighting with the rotors on this truck and replaced all four with ford stuff. Keep in mind these of course stop slower than a car.

 

[rjdelp7]

I was told, when the 1st Gens came out, they had the largest rotors ever made. A good pedal, depends on good rear brakes. I would look at the rubber lines near the calipers. See if they look normal. When was the last time brakes were replaced? Crack the bleeders and let them gravity bleed.

 

[JExpedition07]

The 3rd gen rotors are 13.5 inch diameter, pretty small.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Just a shot in the dark. At that age, I would replace the front brake hoses. If the fitting are not badly rusted, it is a simple job and the Motorcraft replacement hoses are about $20 (+ shipping) from Rock Auto.

If the fitting are very corroded, start a week ahead spraying them with your favorite penetrating oil. Don't forget the brake bleeder screw ! Mild heating with a propane torch (start with the bleeder screw) before attempting to loosen them (On the bleeder screw, warm the screw and the surrounding area. You only need it to be about 200F. Then take an ice cube wrapped in a rag and hold it on the screw for about 30 seconds, before attempting to loosen it.)

Or just take it to a good repair shop. SWAG is about $100 per side.

Inspect the rear hose(s) also.

 

[98eb5.4]

old rubber is the starting point, calipers, master cyl & flex lines at all 4 wheels, u can also get stainless steel flex lines,

cheapest way is pads that bite hard,

way more money is upgraded bigger brake bits,

http://www.powerbrakeservice.net/98foexhycopo.html

lotsa info out there on booster issues
https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-power-brake-booster

 

[theoldwizard1]

... u can also get stainless steel flex lines, ...

Not worth the cost especially if the OEM ones lasted this long.

,,, cheapest way is pads that bite hard ...

That usually requires a softer pad material. Softer pads wear faster and create a lot of brake dust.

If it is not the hoses, I am betting that one of the calipers is sticking.

 

[and0r]

Booster is fine, pads are fine, lines are fine, truck is immaculate.