Feel free to laugh... whats the socket size for the center nut to take wheel off?

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JimS

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Lol yeah ....i did try searching for like 15 mins btw


Or is that just for hub removal? Do i need ot to do shocks or not?
LOL! I'm laughing because the first time I tried to take a tire off my used 11 Expy it wouldn't budge and I found myself thinking the same thing. I was like, "What the????"

It took me a bit to figure out the rim was just rusted on there real good.

Just loosen the lug nuts a tiny bit, drive it around the block slowly swerving a bit, and then it will come right off.
 
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Adieu

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Oh no, I'm not struggling (yet)...was just planning ahead

Turns out I misunderstood anyway, the two atypical humongous sockets needed for a shock install are for the SHOCK bolt and nut (30mm and 27mm deep-ish and preferably impact sockets).... which is probably why the DIY guides never mention the rear axle nut size lol.


Anyway, I already own a 36mm
 

rjdelp7

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Ford includes wheel change instructions, located with the jack and owners manual.
 

theoldwizard1

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First, I don't think Ford has used a non-Metric fastener in over 20 years. Period.

Second, if the wheel is "frozen" to the rotor/drum there are a couple of different methods to get it off. Reinstall a couple of the lug nuts but leave them lose. Loser than even finger tight.
  • Put the car back on the ground and drive forward and hit the brakes HARD. Repeat going backward. 2 or 3 times. If that doesn't work, dry around the block trying to hit some potholes. Hard stops.
  • With the car well supported on jack stands, start pounding on the tire, being careful NOT to hit the rim. Likely a full sized sledge will be required.
Before replacing the wheel, clean the corrosion off the center hole and on the obvious places on the back of the wheel. Anti-seize is best, but any greas on those contact points will help.
 

rjdelp7

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First, I don't think Ford has used a non-Metric fastener in over 20 years. Period.

Second, if the wheel is "frozen" to the rotor/drum there are a couple of different methods to get it off. Reinstall a couple of the lug nuts but leave them lose. Loser than even finger tight.
  • Put the car back on the ground and drive forward and hit the brakes HARD. Repeat going backward. 2 or 3 times. If that doesn't work, dry around the block trying to hit some potholes. Hard stops.
  • With the car well supported on jack stands, start pounding on the tire, being careful NOT to hit the rim. Likely a full sized sledge will be required.
Before replacing the wheel, clean the corrosion off the center hole and on the obvious places on the back of the wheel. Anti-seize is best, but any greas on those contact points will help.
When a wheel sticks to hub, I take both hands and give top of tire(sidewall) a sharp hit/push. 99% of time, the wheel pops free. I do agree on cleaning rim, hub mounting surface(something no shop bothers to do). Alloy wheels get a crusty build up and may prevent wheel from seating(lug nuts, coming loose and vibration). Anti seize is good because, dissimilar metals, have corrosion issues.
 

Big Brian

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When a wheel sticks to hub, I take both hands and give top of tire(sidewall) a sharp hit/push. 99% of time, the wheel pops free. I do agree on cleaning rim, hub mounting surface(something no shop bothers to do). Alloy wheels get a crusty build up and may prevent wheel from seating(lug nuts, coming loose and vibration). Anti seize is good because, dissimilar metals, have corrosion issues.


lol you would still be yanking on mine

It took a few real good whacks with the 8 lb sledge to get them loose the first time I took them off
 

NASCAR Mike

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PB blaster and a rubber mallet so you dont damage the rotor. If you are putting on a new rotor then use a 5 lb hammer.

I always use anti-seize on the axle carrier where the rotor sits. This prevents it from rusting together.
 
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