Front seat removal

[1955moose]

Theirs 3 motors. One forward /back, one tilt, and one vertical. Are you going to change just the one horizontal one? Their not cheap, $168.00 to $230.00 each. If that's the way your going to go, you need to figure out which one is bad, and re rivet in the new one, or find a complete rack used with all three motors and bolt the used rack to your seat.

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[Mr.Ted]

To 1955 Moose and the others that offered help on my seat removal, especially Moose,the end has come. I finally got the seat pushed foward enough to get to the bolt head to get it out. Well the d*** bolt won. I put the T55 torx in the bolt on an air rachet and it stripped the head and no way to proceed so I put the seat back together for now to revisit this task later after more research. I do want to say thanks very much for all the help.

 

[Trainmaster]

It may be too late for this, but before you gorilla-wrench a stuck bolt it's a good idea to clean it off, spray it with Kroil or some sort of penetrating oil and beat on it little to help the oil get into the threads. If you can get to the back of the bolt, that too should be cleaned of rust and sprayed. I try to take to this for several days before going at the bolt. This may be common sense to some, but slow learners as I learned this with much pain the hard way.

Concerning the offending bolt at hand, soak it with Kroil for a week then try American-made Vice-grips on the head if you can. If you can't grab it but can reach it from below, try twisting that shank with the Vice-grips. If that fails, drill it out with a right angle drill and Easy-outs after the soaking.

I believe the seat bolts are self-tapping, which means they will probably be hard to drill into being they are hardened steel.

Good luck with this one. Odd thing is yesterday I found one of mine completely stripped.

 

[1955moose]

I should have said don't use any air tools on torx bolts. Unless you've got a tight fit, and a top shelf tool like Snap on or Matco, that's what happens. Not to worry though, get a locking pair of vise grips and bust a little at a time, and it will come out. At least now you have access, Moose!

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[Mr.Ted]

well guys I have used Blaster Penetrating oil since last thursday on top and bottom and that sucker must be welded in place. Now as for useing a vise-grips I can't get it to grab and hold to be able to turn it. I purchased 4 nuts to try to back it out from the bottom but for some reason I could not get one nut to go on. I have tried just about everything but the vise-grip on the bottom,I will try that later I have to catch upon my honey do's. THANKS GUYS

 

[1955moose]

Remember a happy wife is a happy life. Find a machine shop that will help you get that sucker off. $100.00 or so is worth keeping the Mrs happy. You've soldiered on about as far as possible, time to let a pro, that does this crud get that bolt out. Once out you can decide what route you'll go. Life's too short to keep aggregating over a bolt!

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[Mr.Ted]

Thanks Moose, I think I am going to rest awhile and get some of my yard work done and than I will get back to it, maybe by then I'll have a better view . Also I live in a small town and will need to search for a shop. Thanks again Moose.

 

[sjwelds]

Weld a nut to the head of the bolt, turn the sucker out. Done it many many times. Favorite is using the TIG welder so you don't have sparks and crap flying around.

 

[Mr.Ted]

hey sjwelds this may be a dumb question but what do I use to keep from setting my truck on fire?

 

[1955moose]

I was thinking the same thing. You can put a piece of sheet metal or if your trick asbestos where you weld. Anything to cover the carpet. Keep a fire extinguisher or 2 handy!

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