Ordering brake pads and rotors

[ELVATO]

Yea, it's pretty straight forward, but always helps if you have someone supervising. Once you've done it, though, it's cake.

 

[Captain Morgan]

Get a manual for your truck - read the brake section.
Only do one wheel at a time. If you screw something up you have the other wheel to look at.
<b>Sometimes the rotors will get stuck/rusted on. PB Blaster is your friend.</b>
Some rotors are held in place with countersunk Philips head screws - may need an impact driver to remove them
If they don't have the screw you can use one lug nut to hold the new rotor in place while you put the caliper assy. back on.
Don't let the caliper hang by the hose. Inspect the brake hose for cracks while your there.
Wipe the rotor face with brake cleaner to remove the coating before installing.
Don't get cheap with the pads, buy a good set.

I can't re emphasize this enough. If you don't have the right tools and willing to do these steps, it's not cake at all. Start soaking those damned bolts a week in advance, or even NOW.


.

 

[VTfireftr]

Anybody know any tricks for reinstalling the metal "clip" on the outside of the caliper?

I know where the piece goes, but it doesn't want to "seat" itself?

Marc

 

[JoshuaGrooms83]

wow guys, its not "THAT" hard. stop trying to scare him. brakes are brakes with some vaiances inbetween. its not like the old stupid honda rotors that have to have the hub removed inorder to replace the rotors which consaquently requires new bears as well...

i just did mine with a caliper and brake line too boot (sticking/draggin simptoms) its realitivly cake so as long as you get qulity parts and take your time.

heres some simple guidance on changing just the pads and rotors...
take you time (most important)
your gonna need some tools, one of which are really important or you cant take em off are a set of torx bits/sockets. the calipers are hung on the caliper braket. the rest of it is simple sockets, ratchet, large flattip screwdriver (or pry bar), wrenches, and a torque wrench, not nessary but recommended, that or take it to a local walmart or shop to do a quick torq check to make sure they are with in spec range. 100+ is usually good but i dont remember off the top of my head if its 110 or 120 for these large trucks. they usually wont charge you for something like that.
Also some brake cleaner and PB blast to help loosen it up and some anti seize and silglide for the caliper pins (sil glide or light grease)) and the studs and other bolts (anti-sieze).
unless you want to man handle or break them off next go around, i highly recommend anti sieze on anything you touch.

1 place jacks and stands near where your gonna work and remove the cap from your brake resovior. place a rag on top of it so that it doenst leak too much.

2 break loose the lugnuts on the tire your gonna take off. Just LOOSE, NOT OFF... yet ( aflat tip takes that cover off by the way lol)

3 jack up the vehicle safely with proper rated jack and stands. Dont expect a car jack stand/jack to hold up your 7300lbs truck

4 remove the lugs and set them in the cover (keeps them together and not scattered)
and remove the wheel

5 take the outside tension bar off ( screw driver will do it) and remove the caliper (2 torx bolts hidden by a dust cover usually) and set it on top of the old rotor so that it doesnt pull on the hose. take the old brake pads out. the out side pad is easy , the inside pad is inside the pistons. theres a spring that places tention on it. take that out without breaking it or mis-shapening it if you didnt get a new one.

6 remove the caliper bracket (2 normal hex bolts) pretty simple. make sure the shiims on it are still there. if you didnt get new ones, clean these up and set it aside for now.

7 remove the old rotor... this may require some "coaxing"... like a hammer lol lightly tap it on the inside without hitting the studs to loosen it up. If you have a screw on there, take it out. this may also require coaxing. an impact driver may be needed. (its a screw driver that gets hit by a hammer lol not litterally though, its a specific tool)
if not then your good and just need some tapping on the rotor to get it off. some forceful blows from the back side should have it off soon. rotate the rotor a few times and tap it until it comes off. dont **** it to one side too much as it could damage the studs.

8 after removing the rotor clean it up with a wire brush. also clean the caliper braket and caliper so that its free of debee and brake dust. some brake cleaner after words will make it look nice and clean. (nows a good time to paint them if you like lol)

9 place a light coat of anti-sieze on hub and place the rotor on. spray the rotor with brake cleaner. gets the oil off it.

10 re install the caliper braket and place anti size on the contact points. replace the shims on the braket. the bolts dont require a crazy amount of torque but make sure its tight.
I recommend a stubby ratchet since you cant place an insane amount of torque by hand unless your arnold lol if it makes you feel better, get a 3/8 torque wrench and find the specs.

11 now this may require a caliper pressing tool to push the pistons back into the caliper. you may be able to do it by hand, but its tough. clean the caliper pins and put some fresh sil glide on the. dont be shy with it lol lube em good. place some anti-sieze on the contact points on the brake pads and load them into their respective spots. make sure to put that spring back in the inside brake pad on the caliper. put the other pad on the outside braket and then gently put the caliper back on and bolt it down...
- dont go ape shit on the torx bolts or your will either break your tool, OR strip out the bolts. either isnt good. most of these dont need more then 15-30ftlbs torque one most vehicles
-if you really want to you can put some anti-squeal spay on the backs of the pads if you really want to but its not neccessary. i do it for customers cars but ive never used it on my own... go figure lol

12 everything else is cake. check your work and make sure you dont have petroleium products on the rotor or pads (friction) and make sure anything that moves has been greased in some way.

13 put the wheel back on and bolt it down as best you can

14 if your on a lift then you have acces air tool and and can continue to the next wheel, if on the ground your gonna need to put the vehilce back on the ground and torque that wheel. 100ftlbs is a good start. 6 bolts torque to 100ftlbs will keep that wheel on there lol its not coming off.

15 repeat until complete. The rears willl be simular but not exact. rears have a parking brake to it but not too complicated.


and thats about that. take you time and if you need reference, you have another one on the opposite side to look at

whats nice about this is that you didnt open the brake system up so guess what..... NO BLEEDING required. However, if you really want to then go ahead and do it. just make sure to start from the furthest caliper and work your way tot he front. Also i noticed that its better to do it with the truck on with these things. im assuming its somthing to do with the ABS system on these trucks.

good luck and if you need help... ASK!!

 

[FordandPolaris]

Anybody know any tricks for reinstalling the metal "clip" on the outside of the caliper?

I know where the piece goes, but it doesn't want to "seat" itself?

Marc

Use a flat head screwdriver, by putting one end of the clip in the right spot, and the screwdriver on the right spot on the other end. It is spring loaded so you have to pry on it a bit. You won't break it, and if you use the screwdriver as a kind of guide, it will slide right down into its correct spot. Had the same problem doing brakes on my dad's 04.