P0435

[Hamfisted]

Do you know what weight oil you're using in the motor ? Some people have had good luck switching to a heavier oil, like a 10w-40 to regain phaser operation or at least minimize the missing or rough running. It's a relatively cheap option to try. So if you try the new cam sensor and have no success you might try the heavier oil.






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[GngrBeardMan]

The last time the oil was changed valvoline put in 5w20

 

[whtbronco]

Seems most of the posts I have seen reported mileage between 150-200k, with some as low as 100k.

So I had issues with a place to do the work in the past as well. I rented a space in a garage from a co-worker once and I had buddies that rented a storage facility. You probably should ensure they would allow that before signing an agreement of course. Anyway, just some ideas if you want to tackle the job yourself.

I wondered if a heavier weight oil could help delay the inevitable and based on Mike's response now we know.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

New update. Got off work and decided to run some more tests. Now I'm getting a p0340 and p0349 in stored codes and p0345 and p0012 and I noticed I can't get her above 2875 RPM

 

[GngrBeardMan]

Okay so may not be related but I feel really stupid about this. I have a habit of not checking my oil unless I drive a vehicle and as I haven't been driving this one very often I haven't checked the oil in a very long time. I checked the oil after taking it for a quick test drive down the road and back and there was no oil on the dipstick after about 15 minutes of waiting but it's sitting around at my house. So I grabbed some oil that I had laying around and added some, about 3 quarts worth after a couple of different Cycles. Starter back up and she's sounding as smooth as butter, so I decided to get her back on the road and see how she does. Had no problem going above 3,000 RPM and when I stuck it down to the floor she got up pretty high before she shifted like she used to do with absolutely no issues, no hesitation or stuttering. Drove like a top for about 20 minutes without any issues and then I decided to come home. Ever since this started she would have issues getting back into the parking lot at my apartment complex and she pulled in with no problem. Is there any chance that the oil being 3 quarts low could mimic a timing issue?

 

[whtbronco]

Yes absolutely, the timing chain tensioners use oil pressure to adjust the chain. Of course the entire valve train is also lubricated by the oil and you were 50% low. At higher rpm their may not have been enough oil for the pump to pick up.

Glad to hear it sounds like a fairly easy fix resolved the issue.

 

[GngrBeardMan]

So adding oil definitely got rid of majority issues. Now the only time she dies or starts acting up seems to be when I have to reverse, doesn't happen all the time like when I'm pulling out of a parking spot and I have to crank the wheel hard over and reverse she ends up struggling and she's dying me a couple times. The check engine light did come back on for the bank to sensor and she started acting like the timing was way off again. I'm thinking that as soon as I can come up with the money to do so I need to just pay somebody to do a full timing job on it. Would try to do it myself but I don't have any place that I am allowed to work on vehicles at that I could do this something like that. The other thing is when she does start acting up usually the only thing I have to do is just restart her and she's fine at that point. Going to keep looking into a few things but I think my next step would be to check for corrosion on the connector for Bank two sensor. Not a huge fan of having to tear off all that wire harness wrap that's all over a majority of her wires but I will do what I have to do LOL

 

[whtbronco]

Here's a far less intrusive way to test wires from one of the really smart members here.

From Yupster Dog:
"Voltage Drop Test is testing the connections without having to take them apart and you can work your way right to the problem.
So you have a volt meter and you put the red on the positive battery post and the black on the negative post you will get how many volts your battery is putting out. (12.v)
now that you know your volt meter is on and working,

The goal is to read 0 volts.(means all good connections) the more volts you read the worse the connection. (Ex 1.5v it's a little dirty all the way to 11.3v means almost no connection.)

(notice I don't say black and red colors here, that is because it doesn't matter what colors where)

Put one wire on negative post then put the other wire on the clamp that is on the negative post. If you read any volts at all those volts are being lost in the connection from the post to the clamp. (Ex if you read 1.5v you need to clean the battery terminal). put back together and move on to the next connection on the wire and one still on the battery post.
This can be done on both positive and negative sides the exact same way.

Look up (Voltage Drop Test) You tube vids get a little techy but my explanation should help a little."