Poor acceleration then died.

[juan214]

Hey guys,
New mystery, while driving home yesterday from hospital. Truck acted up with an acceleration problem. It would not even get up to 1 MPH floored it same issue. Pulled over the truck had no power (no lights nothing while at idle it made a click then died. Tried to crank it just clicked. Pulled battery left truck for a tow (1 hour plus wait). Dropped it off at Advanve Auto Parts for a full charge. Had it tested they said it was good. Put battery in last night, tried to start it it just clicked then left it disconnected over night. Today, reconnected the battery same thing just clicked. Check voltage it said 11.72. Saw the engine turned (so not seized). Jumped and charge it with cables, it started right up. It idled a little rough until it caught up. Let it idle for 15 to relearn idle. Drove around the block and ran like it normally does. Truck starts with no issues now but need to figure out the cause.

Prior Issues:

• Had a knock after A?C repairs. Not engine or compressor sounds like tranny. Posted here previously. Seems to may cleared after sitting five months.
• I can feel like it has a misfire but with CEL or codes.
• I'll drive it seems ok except for a my suspect misfire. when it comes to a stop seems like a transmission downshift then idle changes drastically to rough.
• Still drivable

Went to O'Reilly Auto Parts today for on car test both the battery and charging systems are fine. So I'm clueless as to what happen to the battery and why it died. After doing the test the truck idle down and the parts person said that it may be a fuel filter or pump.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance

I did get some of my own info my scanner.... I'm holding the first image suspect

 

[juan214]

Here's what I pulled from my scanner....

 

[juan214]

 

[juan214]

This says STS OK for TOTAL ENGINE MISFIRE

 

[juan214]

From what I see above

• OL - Fault
• Initial tank vacuum - Fail
• Test $53 Data (which I think is Mode 6)- Fail

with no misfires or codes

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

Sure sounds like a defective battery and/or corroded cable connectors (or a defective cable with corrosion inside the sheath).

 

[Yupster Dog]

I agree with @99WhiteC5Coupe start with a voltage drop test on positive and negative battery cables and starter cables.

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/voltage-drop-testing-for-no-start.26144/

 

[juan214]

Thank guys I'll do the tests today. More than likely I'll probably change both cables, they both had then ends change out due to the factory clamps may have stretched out and could not hold onto the post tight enough. Though I was done with battery cable issues.

Dumb question, would this cause the faults and failures?

 

[99WhiteC5Coupe]

A bad battery and/or loose connectors and/or corroded connectors and/or a bad cable (corrosion inside sheath) can cause all types of electrical problems, and set various codes due the the intermittent connection or electrical supply.

 

[juan214]

Sorry guys, didn't get to do voltage drop test. Wifey's vehicle takes priority over mine when it comes to repairs/complaints. I never got around to replacing cables. Was looking for OEM $68.00 for both as a harness, but they're on national backorder. Now I need to figure if after market separately will work.
Anyway just went out with the truck now got about a mile away and turn around blower motor sounded funny. I looked over and the battery like was on. Rush (actually limped) home to test the for charging. Wanted to see if the alternator has a intermittent charging problem. I couldn't find my leads for my meter (fn socks). I pulled the positive cable and it died, so current must be getting through cable, correct? Battery is low/dead and just clicks again. They both tested fine on the truck four days ago.