Timing job complete!

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Andy Rubalcaba

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I'm still working on it. I have too much going on right now. LOL.

I ran into an issue with the bolts for the replacement oil pump. Although not technically part of the timing job, Ford TechMakuLoco suggest to upgrade to the high volume pump while the front cover is removed. It makes sense to me. However my inch pound ratchet must be defective. I overtightened one of the bolts and it snapped. I had to purchase a set from the dealership. Today I did get back to working on it. I installed the oil pump w/o snapping any bolts. It was a bear trying to get the bolts back in that connect the oil pickup to the pump.

I did remove the camshaft and the roller followers. As I was cleaning and checking the followers and camshafts I noticed some grooves in the camshaft. I watched several videos to find out if this was 'normal wear' or if I should be concerned. Brian (aka FordTechMakuLoco) usually mentions one way or another if an area is of concern or normal. No mention either way if grooving in the camshaft where it meets the towers is normal or something to repair. Any ideas?

Thanks
IIRC, the grooves should indicate replacement if you can feel them with your finger nail.

boy that issue with the bolts makes me nervous, you see when I finally do this which will be at tax time next year, i'm working with only one vehicle so I need it to be done without set backs. i'm going to give myself a week, and have a rental truck in that time, three days out of that week i'll be completely off work so about three full days and three days where i can spend maybe 3-4 hours per day on it. otherwise, i won't be able to really afford to have set backs.

i'm going to be replacing the oil pump, camshafts, roller followers ( all 24 ), full timing kit w/ phasers, and drive belt pully's. so i'm a bit nervous about running into issues lol.
 

07navi

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I rarely use a torque wrench and never had a problem. People think mechanics keep one in their back pocket but it's not true. A few lines on cams never hurt anything either. Andy; don't worry about breaking bolts, it rarely happens.
 

Underdog66

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I rarely use a torque wrench and never had a problem. People think mechanics keep one in their back pocket but it's not true. A few lines on cams never hurt anything either. Andy; don't worry about breaking bolts, it rarely happens.
Well I guess I'm the lucky one. LOL. I'm on the second go round of installing this oil pump and it feels as if the bolts are going to snap AGAIN! I set the torque wrench to HALF the specified torque of 89 inch pounds. I'm even using a different WRENCH! It still feels as if I continue to snug them, they will snap again. I tried the wrench on some other bolts and I get the same results. They feel as if they're going to snap.

I'm not sure how to proceed? At first I thought maybe I had the pump on incorrectly, but I think that would be even more rare than the bolts snapping. LOL. My first thought is to snug them until they 'feel' right. Also the oil pickup bolts are spec'd to the same torque rating, BUT there is no way to get a torque wrench in from above the pan. I just snugged them with a flex head gear wrench until the felt snug. Maybe I should do the same thing on the mounting bolts. Thoughts?

Thanks guys.
 

Underdog66

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how did this repair go?
So today I was able to completely reassemble my 2005 Expy. I left the crank shaft sensor unplugged as directed by FordTechMakuloco Brian. I cranked over the motor and waited 20 seconds for the oil pressure 'gauge' to come up to indicate oil pressure. The gauge didn't move. I understand that its not a true gauge but a switch. Any ideas as to why I couldn't get it to pressure?

Thanks.
 
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rwmorrisonjr

rwmorrisonjr

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So today I was able to completely reassemble my 2005 Expy. I left the crank shaft sensor unplugged as directed by FordTechMakuloco Brian. I cranked over the motor and waited 20 seconds for the oil pressure 'gauge' to come up to indicate oil pressure. The gauge didn't move. I understand that its not a true gauge but a switch. Any ideas as to why I couldn't get it to pressure?

Thanks.
I had to do the same thing. Just keep cranking it for about 20-30 seconds at a time and it’ll come up. It took me about three tries for it to finally come up.
 

Underdog66

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I had to do the same thing. Just keep cranking it for about 20-30 seconds at a time and it’ll come up. It took me about three tries for it to finally come up.
I tried half a dozen times and the gauge never came up. My son found a post elsewhere which indicated on SOME model years the gauge wouldn't operate without CONTINUIOS pressure. It went onto state that since only the 'top end' was worked on, there would be sufficient oil remaining on critical parts in the block such as rods, bearings, etc.. I considered removing the sensor and hooking a pressure gauge to the back side of the filter mount. I decided against it due to the fact it was a major pain to connect and a concern that I would break something in the process.

The other post went on to say that it would most likely be 'okay' to start the engine and verify oil pressure via the gauge. The poster stated that it would indicate sufficient pressure within 10 seconds. If it didn't the engine could be shut down without any damage. I had already 'pre-lubricated' all the timing parts I had repaired and/or replaced. Long story short, I just went for it. I connected the crank sensor and started it up. It runs GREAT.

Thank you for the help and a BIG thank you for the encouragement.
 
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