Towing Advice Needed

[chuck s]

Looks like a nice trailer.

Towing at maximum ratings is possible but seldom provides "happy towing". For those buying a truck or SUV ALWAYS get the HD Tow package, it's cheap as a option and although you can add it piece by piece that will be more expensive.

There are dozen of towing "Rules." My personal rule (I made it up!) and the one I recommend for happy towing is the One Ton Rule. This accounts for weights in the truck -- remember every pound in the truck lowers the max towing capacity pound-for-pound -- high summer temperatures (and stuck in traffic), long grades, and higher altitudes. This rule mandates the truck have 2,000 pounds towing capacity than the GVWR of the trailer. In the case of this Jayco that would be 7,500 pounds and you max out at 6,300.

Running the rule the other way don't buy a trailer with a GVWR of more than 4,300 pounds a Ton less than your max towing capacity.

Can you get away with 1,000 pounds? Probably but you may be flogging the poor beast in some conditions. Fit a larger transmission cooler, larger radiator, and add a trailer brake controller. If you can get the Ford controller to work it's wonderful. You'll need a WDH -- recommend the Equalizer (brand). You won't need upgraded brakes or suspension parts -- nor will they increase towing capacity. The trailer brakes will handle the trailer that's why they're there.

What often turns out to be critical is the combined weight of passengers and cargo. Using the 1504 pounds in the pictured sticker and the critical tongue weights of conventional trailers which must be in the 10% - 15% of the trailer's weight so there's a minimum of 560 pounds but more likely the 630 that maxes out the truck and reduces the CCC to about 900 pounds for passengers, dogs, and the like.

Please, everyone, stop mentioning "dry weights." These are pure fiction and trailers often leave dealer's lots several hundred pounds heavier once batteries and propane cylinders -- and other "stuff" are added.

I'm currently towing a 6,000 pound travel trailer behind my 9,300 pound rated 2017 Expedition. Not once have I wished I had less towing capacity.

-- Chuck

 

[theblackpearl]

Thanks everyone. I gave up on the big trailer and just bought a popup, with a ~3200GVWR. Easy to tow, along with a sway bar.

And I put in a brake controller, and gonna add Z36 powerstop brakes. And call it a day for now. Next vehicle I buy with most likely be a F150 or larger wtih the towing package and trailer backup assist lol.

 

[JasonH]

Thanks everyone. I gave up on the big trailer and just bought a popup, with a ~3200GVWR. Easy to tow, along with a sway bar.

And I put in a brake controller, and gonna add Z36 powerstop brakes. And call it a day for now. Next vehicle I buy with most likely be a F150 or larger wtih the towing package and trailer backup assist lol.

If you have any thoughts of getting a 5th wheel, just go straight for a Super Duty. Otherwise, the Expedition is great for up to 7,000 to 7,500 loaded trailers. The F150 can go a bit higher.

 

[Olpap]

Hi guys, I read your thoughts and opinions on this topic and decided to share what I did on my 2004 Expedition. I bought mine used about 5 years ago and it looked great VGC 4WD pretty nice SUV. But it had a problem with occasional overheating so I was told by the seller. I liked the car so I bought it at a pretty good discount around 3500. He was slightly desperate but somewhat honest and said it was diagnosed with a faulty temp sensor. I looked at the car for over an hour and decided to get it. Here is what I did to alleviate the problems with over heating. I found the intake manifold had deteriorated where the o ring groove is against the head. I filled it in with epoxy, smoothed it flush and applied good quality grey silicone and installed it. This stopped the leak and I didn’t have to buy the cheesy aftermarket manifold. Any way I rebuilt the engine ,and replaced the radiator. I also removed the transmission lines from the bottom of the radiator and installed an extra large sized radiator cooler up front. This was to remove the heat caused by the transmission.I then disconnected the small hose from the upper radiator tank and hooked it up to another large sized radiator cooler up front and ran the other return hose back to the radiator pressurized filler tank. This really lowered the engine temperature from 230 degrees to below 200 degrees give or take. If you want to take some steps to lower overall temperatures this is what I did. We drove over 4500 miles up to Maine and never had a heating issue. The suv has 185,000 miles and so far it’s been fine.

 

[sjwhiteley]

Thanks. So yours does not have the tow package too ? Outside of the sumo springs did you make any other updates ?

I do not have the tow package, no.

The only other ‘mods’ are the shocks, and the OEM brake controller: bilsteins simple because the original ones were leaking, and the brake controller because it fits nicely and works well.

 

[theblackpearl]

I do not have the tow package, no.

The only other ‘mods’ are the shocks, and the OEM brake controller: bilsteins simple because the original ones were leaking, and the brake controller because it fits nicely and works well.

OEM brake controller question - did you enable it yourself? If so I have a question (gonna make another post on it, but thought I might ask).

I bought an "OEM brake controller" from ebay. And plugged it in. Used Forscan to enable a brake controller module. It did not have the Brake Controller Gain module in Forscan.

With this, the lights on the trailer work after I setup a trailer. But everytime I set the gain, or use the slide-brakes, it says "No Trailer". So I am not sure if my trailer brakes are applying.

Any thoughts?

 

[Ellison Brown III]

I believe you will be fine. Mine weighs 4400lbs (dry). WDH, sumo ‘springs’ (the rubber donuts). While I have not done much towing lately, when I did, it was stable and ran smooth.

That’s good to know… I also installed Sumo Springs on my truck. Didn’t do this until after my first pull from the dealer. Back of the truck was squatted a bit much for me even with the “wdh”. Did some research and found Sumo Springs.

Because my rv was purchased as a living space at my remote work location it sits where I set it up since purchasing. So, I’ve not yet put a load on the truck to see how it sits, or how it tows.

I have a 2023 Coachmen Apex 194BHS; 3634lbs dry weight. I’ve got a 2016 EL. Outfitted the Full Race power package, and a few other toys, for more pulling muscle. Installed carbon ceramic pads and rotors for better stopping performance. Figured I’d give the suspension a bit of help with the spring helpers. Was worried it would sit weird, or ride hard when there was no load. Haven’t noticed either of those conditions.

They are super easy to install. While truck was up on the lift the suspension sags perfectly for easy installation. After my oil change I wiped down the springs, and popped them right in.

 

[sjwhiteley]

OEM brake controller question - did you enable it yourself? If so I have a question (gonna make another post on it, but thought I might ask).

I bought an "OEM brake controller" from ebay. And plugged it in. Used Forscan to enable a brake controller module. It did not have the Brake Controller Gain module in Forscan.

With this, the lights on the trailer work after I setup a trailer. But everytime I set the gain, or use the slide-brakes, it says "No Trailer". So I am not sure if my trailer brakes are applying.

Any thoughts?

Don't know. Maybe get help on this in the Forscan sub-forum? I had the dealership install and set it up.