need info installing my 300amp alt?

hello. I am putting a system in my rig and I can find a little info on the big 3/4 but not much on doing so with a high output alt. So what I need to know is the fusible link on the stock pos cable. If i am just adding the big 3 with out removing the stock wiring what about the fuse? I don't want to remove the stock wiring for in case I ever sell or if anything happened. I don't really have a real answer to why I'm leaving it but I figured it would be hard to open up every loom and track the wire down and remove it because I can barley get my hands in there to even touch the wires below the batt.

Before everyone says h/o alts are a wast of $ I do need one. I have offroad lights and the system Im putting in is 3000+ watts and I also have a 12000 lb winch to install. I already have the mechman alt installed just need help with the wiring.

I know that i have to fuse the wire coming from the alt to the pos terminal and it will be a 300 amp fuse but if I am leaving the stock fusible link wont it blow the fuse?

any pics or links would be great. thanks guys.

So I thought about it and electricity takes the path of least resistance and because I didn't tie my 1/0 gauge to the starter solenoid I think the built in fuse will be fine. I mean I hope so because when I finish soldering the cables I made yesterday I will be starting the truck. If I am wrong PLEASE let me know.

Path of least resistance is not entirely correct. Most of the electricity will follow the least resistance the rest will follow a higher resistance branch circuit until the lower resistance circuit "opens".

Water follows the path of least resistance, electricity is not water. The only thing you need wired straight to your battery is your winch and your amp circuits, which, one of would be fuse protected. Your alternator is for filling the electrical tank that is your battery. Sudden high amp loads should not be carried by your alternator. Capacitors in the 1 to whatever Farad should take care of your quake sized bass hits and a good AGM battery will work your winch. LED lights have all but done away with the big alternators need as their draw is. 10th what was needed with incandescents and [emoji33] halogen. High output alts are best for high energetic constant load applications like a big effing inverter on an ambulance which is running lights sirens three or four radios GPS onboard wifi fluorescent interior lights defib chargers ventilators ballon pumps aux ac/heat suction charger and constant vacuum pump........ I can go on. It's nice to point at and I won't tell you not to do it as it sounds like you already did. At least you soldered which is vast steps in the right direction. Keep an extinguisher handy and let us know how it goes. Pictures are always helpful for others who wish to help.

I will get pics. Also before the whole interior is reinstalled I do have an inverter that my father is giving me. It is either a 1500 watt or 2000. I don't remember when I looked at it.

Think on the order of 5-6k. Anything you can plug into a 12v socket will generally be fine.

wire pics


stock wire and 1/0 to the pos terminal of the mechman alt


pos from alt to the 300 amp fuse block.


stock pos wire with fusible link still attached to batt


stock ground and 1/0 connected to stock location on engine


stock ground location

1/0 ground from back of alt to frame


stock ground and 1/0 above batt connected to bat


stock grounds on pass side frame rail with 2 1/0 grounds one straight to batt and one to the back of the alt.


all the batt connections with batt blocks. didn't think of it but they don't really leave a good way to jump the rig.

Stamp11127 I uploaded pics here so both of you can see them but i will continue the trouble shooting on the other post to keep things straight.

http://www.expeditionforum.com/f42/no-start-after-heater-core-change-27133/

big 3 upgrade is a must...ho alt is good but the grounding of the amp isn't necessary at this moment for 1k-2k system...that would've been good with big 3...no additional grounds...from batter straight to amp...ground amp...done



you need to do the big three which consist of running wire to alt in addition to factory...



do you plan on upgrading or installing a bigger system down the road? I have 2 PSI Audio platform 3 performance upgrade 18s...8k rms...that I will be installing next year...2 4500.1 skar audio amps and I was going to run massive audio in the doors...3 sets in each door but that might change

6k-watts. I went a little further in with the big three. alt to batt pos, batt to frame, batt to engine block, engine block to frame, engine block to body, body to frame, body to batt, and starter to frame and a 1/0 power wire to alt pos. I have 2 zv4 15s, pushing them with a crescendo BC2000 for now. When I feel I need a little more and have done more comp install for the doors I will add a second bc2000. For the front doors I have hybrid audio imagine 6.5s pushing them with the crescendo symphony 800/4. I know its a lot for the speakers but I wanted head room. I went for the large alt because I don't want to have a batt bank. If I need a batt I only want to upgrade the one I have and if I must I will add a second but that is it. Also I have a 12000lb winch and my current offroad lights are not led and I also plan on more lights and my buddy wants to build a pc that will run off the raspberry pie.
I told him that if he can get all the programming to work and set it up that I will buy the parts and use my car as a guinea pig. When this is retired to my offroad rig I have more plans for it so it seemed like a small expence to upgrade the alt now when i had the money to do so.

Dont know if i can post a link to my audio build log but ill try.
99 ford expedition complete new build. - CarAudioForum.com
http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=369001

Its a little behind but you get an idea of what I have planned as for now and what I have.

Makes sense now...i was like WHOA....overkill...lol

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