Please Help !!!

[Guest]

I went to start my truck this morning, and it started then died. I tried again and it just turned. Yesterday I cranked it and it started but had a slight hesitation.

Mine is a 99 4.6 with 87000 mi on it. Do you think it is the fuel pump. I turned the key on to see if i could hear the pump, and all i heard was like a little whistle sound for a second.

I m really frustrated, I just bought the truck on the first of the month and i keep having problems. How long do you have to return a vehicle to a dealer. I would gladly swap to another car.

Thanks in advance for your quick replies.

 

[Guest]

give it full throttle while spinning it over, and when it starts, give it just enough throttle to keep it running, after a few minutes it will idle on its own, then go get a new idle valve (9F715).

 

[Guest]

oops, that was me ^

 

[Guest]

How much does this run, is it a dealer only item, how hard is it to install? You must have had this problem, so you dont think it is the Fuel Pump?

 

[monsta]

The IAC is a common problem with the modular engines. It is quite easy to install.

I cannot post pics here. Where the picture is (FTE) doesn't support picture hosting...crap...

 

[Guest]

Save the image and post it here... is it the valve-lookin' thing on the top of the engine?

If it is, they have a tendency to hang up and prevent the engine from fireing. Several found if you hit it with a hammer it'll reset and the engine will fire.

 

[PaulC]

I'm almost certain that it's the IAC.

The idle air control valve is a common trouble spot on Triton engines. I paid about $70 for mine last year. Others have paid over $100. Typically, they begin to give trouble after 50,000 miles or when the weather grows cold. You can clean it, or as one poster said, tap on it, but replacement is the most reliable long-term cure. On a 4.6, it is located underneath the plastic "4.6" cover on top of the engine. It looks like a shiny silver tube with a cast "L" shaped fitting connecting it to the air induction system, has a two-wire harness running from it, and is held in place by two bolts, about 7 or 8mm in size.

If you buy one, make sure to also get the mounting gasket. It's available only as a seperate part. It's black, diamond-shaped and has two holes in the center.

R&R Instructions (on a cold engine, for safety reasons)

1. Disconnect negative terminal from battery. Two reasons, safety, and the engine computer has to be provoked into calibrating the new IAC to work with your engine. Disconnecting/reconnecting the battery will accomplish this.

2. Unbolt the three bolts (12mm, I think) that secure the plastic "4.6" cover to the top of the engine.

3. Find the little SOB. It's on the driver's side, looks as described.

4. Unplug the two-wire harness from it.

5. Unbolt the old IAC (two bolts, either 7 or 8mm) and remove the IAC and the old black mounting gasket.

6. Bolt the new IAC in it's place. Don't forget the new gasket!

7. Plug the wiring harness you unplugged in step 4 onto the new IAC.

8. Put 4.6 cover back on.

9. Reconnect negative terminal to battery.

10. Start engine and let idle for fifteen minutes (Don't touch the accelerator!) to allow the engine management system to learn how much voltage the new IAC needs to perform it's job.

You're done. Congratulate yourself for saving the $100+ the dealer would have charged you to do this work.

 

[Guest]

Originally posted by Big Eddie B
How much does this run, is it a dealer only item, how hard is it to install? You must have had this problem, so you dont think it is the Fuel Pump?

I havent "had" the problem, but fixed it hundreds of times in my 9 year career of being a ford master techinician. (I just got out of the field last month) The guys that posted above are correct, except it has nothing to do with anything firing or not. All it does is open and shut really fast (many times a second) to allow the engine to get air without having to crack the throttle plate open.