Tips drivers side valve cover?

[BrandonB]

I haven't got a service manual/dvd yet and am starting to tear into my 99 expedition to figure out my tick. I'm going to lift the engine a few inches and drop the pan on it next weekend but I also wanted to take a look under the valve cover to see if I have a blockage.

Does anyone have tear down instructions they could share for the drivers side valve cover? It looks like I just have to take the bracket for the power steering reservoir to get clear access to get all of the bolts out. But i'm sure it's going to be a bigger pain in the ass then that, always is!

Thanks!

 

[bedrck46]

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[BrandonB]

I'll get it, I just don't have it yet. I've been putting off ordering it. I really bought this thing at the wrong time. Got it in the drive way just in time for tags/taxes/insurance on my other vehicles and the largest electric bill of the year. :/

 

[bedrck46]

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[BrandonB]

Things are tough all over EVEN THE SUBWAY IS IN A HOLE
Sounds like you want others to help you but you don't want to help yourself

Isn't that what a forum is for, help? I can do the work myself even without instructions, I come here for guidance on how to do it quicker. You know, to learn from others mistakes and triumphs.

If I didn't want to help myself, i'd pay someone else to do it and wouldn't even be on this forum. I grew up in the auto parts industry and in a machine shop. I don't need someone else to hold my hand, but i'm not above seeking out tips and offering up my own on topics I am familiar with.

If the guy served up instant download PDF format instead of a DVD i'd buy the thing right now, it would be convenient to have. A DVD is far from convenient, if I buy it i'd likely never use the thing. I'll end up buying it anyways but fairly low on the priority list. I come here for guidance, if I don't get it i'll tear into the thing myself and find out for myself. It's not the end of the world. I just figured i'd ask here first.

 

[bedrck46]

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[BrandonB]

Also I might point out the manual gives step by step how ford says it should be done, it doesn't give insight that other mechanics have on the subject. For example not everyone has a 303-639 engine lift bracket laying around, nor do they appear to be able to be sourced local. People on forums can give alternatives brackets or lift points that they have used with success in the past. The manual doesn't do that.

I tend to care less about what the book says, and more about what real people have to say on the matter. People who don't have access to all of the Ford recommended tools and procedures. Mechanics are a crafty bunch.

If this forum isn't for asking for advice, tips, guidance, what is it for?

 

[bedrck46]

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[BrandonB]

Fun fact, the book ( both the ford service and an online tool shops use ) stated all that is needed to drop the pan is a heavy duty engine support and engine lift bracket. They both state raise the engine with the engine support after removing the motor mounts of course, and then take the pan off - slide it to the side and remove the pickup tube from the oil pump, then proceed to take the pan off.

Neither mention disconnecting the exhaust, fuel, etc. Meaning a few inches is about all you can raise it. So unless ford is wrong...

In my previous post I was looking for guidance to see if people were able to pull it WITHOUT lifting the engine, since I had no immediate access to a lift. The answer was no, so I took that answer and came up with the tools I need to lift it. Once again I was looking for guidance from people who have worked on these things before, which I have not. Why else would I have came here?

You seem to be more interested in pitching that manual then anything. Curious how much your cut is on it... I won't be buying it now. I'll get my material elsewhere.

Also in my previous post at first I was guessing where the sound was coming from. I didn't have a stethoscope at the time to listen. In fact my first post on this forum was before I even owned the vehicle or had direct access to it. I posted here figuring a forum devoted to the vehicle with an engine I had no experience with would be a good place to gather information. What I didn't expect, though I probably should have, was to be immediately turned off from the forum by a regular.

So i'm here to have other people do my homework? Ever think maybe i've already done my homework and am just here to check my answers? Or maybe i'm here to find alternate ways to solve the equation? Many questions can be answered multiple ways, not everything is a true false answer.

Simple solution if you don't want to give guidance/advice, whatever you want to call it. Don't reply. It wouldn't hurt my feelings. But congratulations. Way to sour someones opinion of a website in such a short time!

 

[bedrck46]

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[BrandonB]

Haha you edited out all your snarky replies....


Sent from my RM-877_nam_att_205 using Tapatalk

 

[FordandPolaris]

We're all here to share knowledge. If you don't want to share the knowledge you have, then why waste time typing out a response instead? The point of the forum is to make things as easy as humanly possible for anyone that asks a question. We're here to save money and time, not berate one another...

Anyways, no I do not know of anyone who has been able to remove the pan without lifting the motor. I am sure you have narrowed down the location of the tick, but these motors are known for having ticks at the top of the motor if you are not sure where it is coming from. Mine has had bad valve knock for 60,000 miles and still runs fine. Now if it is definitely more like rod knock, then you have to tear it apart...

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

can conform the top end rattle/knock. 5k miles so far and I've not been easy on her all the time. and I would agree about not wasting your time unless you can confirm it is indeed low end knock from a rod.

 

[BrandonB]

I think i've got the knock pretty well located but won't know for sure until I take her apart. The guess is that I have an oil blockage on the DS head quite possibly caused by sludge.

I also lose oil pressure at highway speed and it immediately comes back after shutting down the vehicle and starting it back up again. So the theory is there is sludge in the pan impeding the flow of oil, and a blockage in the head.

While I have her apart i'm probably going to change the timing chains, guides, possibly the oil pump. Going to check the valve springs, seals, lash adjusters, etc while I have her apart too.

I bought it hoping it would be a quick fix or something I could ignore. But unless someone snuck a diesel engine in there when I wasn't looking I don't think I should ignore it

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

well, It is all up to you. as you asked for, we are all just giving tips/advice on the whole thing. you should take pictures of any finds and document your steps of removal and any difficulties in doing so. you may thank yourself later and we can see the sludge if there is any

 

[BrandonB]

I'll try to remember to snap some pictures. I'm planning on labeling everything as I take it off. I normally don't but this thing seems to have more hoses and sensors then the latest vehicle i've torn apart - my monte carlo.

I hate working on vehicles in my driveway, wish I had a garage and a two post lift - would make things much smoother. I might even shoot some video of me screaming profanity at the thing too. I've always enjoyed working on cars, until it was time to actually do it.

It's always my luck i'm contorted into a position the human body isn't intended to accomplish trying to get a bolt out and the damn thing breaks off. Just glad on this one I don't have to go near the exhaust manifolds!

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

to be honest, my expy is the easiest vehicle I have ever worked on. most fixes are simple or cheap. coming from a 2004 volvo there is much less to work on. hell. I even learned about vacuum systems. first vehicle I've owned that used it at all. (well, my buick used it for the fuel pressure regulator) I mainly want to see pics so I can take a weekend to clear the same passages should there be a common problem for build up causing rattle

 

[BrandonB]

I'll get some pictures taken then and post. I plan on tearing into it over spring break when it will hopefully be warmer. Got down to -12 wind chill here last night...

This thing doesn't look like its terrible to work on, I just know looks can be deceiving. It looks nice and spacious compared to my sideways facing monte carlo engine. That thing is a real BLAST to work on.

The hardest part it appears to taking the DS valve cover off is just getting everything out of the way ( fuel injector cables, etc ) without just removing it all. Getting it off probably wouldn't be that bad with all that crap in the way - but back on would be a real chore.

Also the recommended ford troubleshooting on the valve train requires running the engine with the valve cover off. Seems that would be tedious if all of that stuff is removed to make a clean work area. So my guess is bungee cords and tape are in my future!

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

i would get the tool to disconnect the fuel lines from the rail and get it out of the way. I did my intake gaskets with it attached and it made it a chore to get things in there with it in the way. the more things you can get out of your way the better. like when I did my tune up i was also doing the intake gaskets. it's almost impossible to get the last four plugs out with the intake on.

 

[BrandonB]

Thanks I will probably do that then. Guess i'll probably change the plugs while i'm at it too. If I had a timecert kit i'd just go ahead and put all new thread inserts in while I have it apart!