ExpeditionAndy
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I don't know if it's that or if it's because it is boosted and some of the pressure is forcing fuel past the rings until they fully seat.
Oil Change Frequency
- Thread starter NorthGeorgia
- Start date
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Trainmaster
Old School Member
Change my '08 every time the oil change message comes on, about 7,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 from Walmart at $23/gallon and Motorcraft oil filters at $3.
I'd assume the fuel deletion was present due to the low mileage. It takes a while for the rings to seat fully on a new motor:
Notice how the dilution decreased until 13K or so... It takes a good 10K for a factory motor to have the rings seal up nice.
Notice how the dilution decreased until 13K or so... It takes a good 10K for a factory motor to have the rings seal up nice.
mbtech2003
Full Access Members
I do every 5k miles in both my 05 and 10 expeditions. Using motor-craft stuff from where ever is Cheeper. Syn-blend. Never had an issue. 162k on the 05 and 87k on the 10.
I saw a you tube video of a 2011 F150EcoB. The oil life monitor can be reset for 50%,60% or70%. This adjusts for shorter intervals, and severe service. That made wonder, if these oil life "monitors" are nothing more than a guide. I personally, would never push a stock, paper oil filter, past 5000 miles. I own 3 vehicles and a motorcycle. All, never get more than 2000mi a year each. I use full synthetic and premium filters. I change once a year and drained oil still looks clean. I am considering going longer. The place I recycle the used oil, thought I was dumping new/clean oil. I read, oil gets contaminated, turns acidic and has fuel dilution. The end of drain plug has sacrificial metal(magnesium), that gets attacked first(always check them). Consumer Reports did a test on NYC taxi cabs. They found no noticeable wear after 10,000mi, using synthetic. Running longer intervals, requires checking oil level and top off, something people overlook. Ford says a quart between changes is normal.
JExpedition07
That One Member
I just know from seeing and doing oil on multiple vehicles. At 3,500 miles that oil still looks new and clean. At 5,000 it usually looks decent but is getting darker. At 7,500 to 10,000 the oil is jet black dirty as heck. Sure you can run it that long, but why? For $50? My oil still looks new when I drain it at 3,500 and I’d rather keep new oil in it than run old dirty stuff thru my engine.
Just "looking" at oil, does not indicate, it is good or bad. You could have fuel dilution, high acidic or metal particulate. A diesel engine, has oil, that is black from the get go. The black is carbon, getting washed into oil. Once a year or 5000mi, Full Synthetic. is good rule of thumb. Twice a year, 3500mi synthetic blend.
All my vehicles oil is changed every 3,000 miles. All get OEM filters and Castrol. Only the '16 gets Motorcraft Semi Synthetic due to the direct injection and the diesel F350 Mobile Delvac. I have taken heads off a few of them and can attest to the clean internals and lack of wear. Professional mechanics and the machine shop could not belive how they looked. Dropped the oil pan on the '95 F350 and spot less.
Greg S
Member
I change the oil on my 2008 5.4L V8 every 5,000 - 6,000 miles, with Mobil 1 High Mileage Synthetic 5W20, and with a Motorcraft filter. Oil is usually pretty dark at that point, and it only costs me about $40 for the oil and filter at Walmart. It only takes about 30 minutes and I consider it to be cheap insurance to keep my engine going for the long haul.
Just like Greg S above, I get everything from walmart and it's cheap. I don't like the 5w-20 though...makes engine tick more than 5w-30. If it were new I'd be using the 20 weight. I sent sample to Blackstone Labs a few yrs. ago and Mobil 1 Extended Mileage 5w-30 had 8500 miles on it. All parameters looked good and they replied that I could easily go another 2-4k without issues because of the additive pkg in M1. I change it once a yr since I only put 8-9k on it per yr. at most. I do mine myself and use Motorcraft filter. Only has 130k miles on it and runs great. I get 17-18 mpg in city.
This is why I am currently running 5W20 syn blend Motorcraft until I reach around the 10,000 mile mark on the motor I recently replaced in my 05 Exp to get the rings set properly. After I reach the 10,000 mile mark I plan on spending the extra cash for full synthetic Schaeffer oil and will probably go with the 5W30. I am not for sure what my change interval will be but I may send oil samples to Schaeffer's or another place for analysis and go from there, but I doubt if I will push an oil change for more than 7,500 miles. With that said I am spending more money on better quality oil that "should" hold up longer to help save a little money by increasing the change intervals.
As far as oil filters go I have recently switched all oil filters on my vehicles to Bladwin's which I have heard from several sources are a better quality filter than the Ford filters. They do cost a little more. I heard from guys that have worked in oil fields and several other places that go through a lot of filters on their equipment that they use strictly Baldwin filters because of less complications and blowouts. I have also talked with oil reps that have personally taken apart several filters over the years and the Baldwins were the best they saw. I was just trying to find something other than Fram for years and in my research it seemed that Fram is bottom of the barrel and all other filters besides Baldwin were comparable with each other. I am not an expert but this is what I have heard so I went with it.
Baldwin are paper media filters. Nothing special, but decent. They are used mostly in commercial/diesel applications. It is important to have a anti-drain back valve and correct pressure by-pass valve. In the event the filter clogs, you want to be sure it will by-pass. This is why many people stay with Motorcraft. Purolator Boss, Fram Ultra synthetic, Mobil 1, K&N and Ford Racing are all premium filters. They have superior filter media, silicone drain back valves, better flow and longer mileage life.
Thanks for the info! I really appreciate, like I said I am not an expert but I am trying to figure out which route I should stick with. I have also heard good about the NAPA Gold filters.
The Baldwin specs indicate that it has the following: Anti-Drainback Valve and 20 PSID By-Pass Valve. It doesn't mention whether the drain back valve is silicone or not. As far as the media being better I don't really have a comment on that one. Would be nice to see some kind of comparison.
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I admit I also run Baldwin or Wix filters in our construction equipment only as they are easier to procure. But you can't beat OEM whether filters or parts. The factory doesn't do builds with inferior parts, I learned that lesson years ago and apply that to everything. A friend of mine has a Cadillac...buys all the parts for it at Napa...is it still a Caddy or is it now a Napalac with all the non OEM parts? Something to think about.
A 20 PSI may be too high. I thought, 15-18psi was closer to OEM filter. If bypass is too low, you have no filtering. This was an issue with after market, Harley Davidson oil filters. Owners balked at paying $15.95 for a chrome HD filter. The "knock offs" fit, but were sketchy and did not meet OEM spec. My whole point is, if you are running, more or less a stock paper filter, why not use Motorcraft? $4 at any Walmart. However Motorcraft "farm" out there filters. They are made by Champ. Napa Platinum(wix) make one the best filters(synthetic media). Napa has been in business for years. They supply, many local shops. The guy that thinks, there parts are substandard, may have there parts on his car.
jeff kushner
Full Access Members
Motorcraft FL500 & the equiv Purolator is the exact same filter....but at least the discussion finally moved to where the real issue is...the small capacity filter...go ahead, let that stay in there for 7500 miles...and lets' compare engines at 100,000 miles.
I've just turned 28K miles and my next change is due in 1100 miles yet my oil life is still at 69%....wanna know why? Cause my filter is always clean! The sensors measure pressure loss.....JMHO....
jeff
I've just turned 28K miles and my next change is due in 1100 miles yet my oil life is still at 69%....wanna know why? Cause my filter is always clean! The sensors measure pressure loss.....JMHO....
jeff
Jeff, the IOLM(intelligent oil life monitor)measures temp, time, engine revs and starts. In one year will read 0%, even if not driven. However, disconnecting battery in storage will delay it. A clogged filter will by-pass and not affect pressure(it is a safety feature). The Motorcraft is not the exact same filter as Purolator. The Motorcraft has a silicone drain back valve. They are made by different companies. The Motorcraft(Ford Spec) is manufactured by Champion labs. I have read, Purolator may of made of made them or just the factory OEM, gray filters. In any case, "made by" does not mean the same. I doubt a Motorcraft Fl500S(silicone) is a PureOne, there is no SDBV, with a regular/classic Purolator22500. The Motorcraft is still the best, El-cheapo filter.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
I use the FL-820S Ford filter which the manual calls for, what’s the difference between it and a FL-500s, if there is any?
Ford Racing fl-820, apparently will work on a 2011 5.0l Mustang that uses the fl500s, it requires extra oil. I would personally stick, to what it calls for.
1955moose
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When it comes to oil change intervals, you'll get as much argument as talking religion or politics. As the other members stated, oils are so far ahead of years back that anything from 7500 to 15,000 is possible. Depends on if your using semi synthetic, or full synthetic. Remember that even though the oils protecting, it's still dirty. It never hurts to change fluids ahead of recommendation, but later is always bad.
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