Warning low oil pressure!

[Blackscreen67]

My recommendation to you 5150 is start making sure your service records are air tight. All it takes is a split second of pressure loss to cause valve, bearing, or cylinder/ ring issues.

This pressure issue isn't new to Ford, and if major repair/ replace is required they do fight.

 

[5150 pops]

Coolant is fine.

Reading up on a few other places I came across this thread I'll post at the end. It sounds exactly like my circumstance, except I wasn't hot dogging it on the way to work. It was raining.

I'm thinking it was brought on by oil degradation, once the engine was up to temp, the viscosity went away.
First and only oil change I used the motorcraft blend, with the intention of using Mobile 1 at 4000 miles.
I'm going to do the change at work, once I'm done with the day, fingers crossed.

Also ran across a thread about Puralator oil filters making Motorcraft filters and the Puralator version having had a bad batch that may have extended to the Motorcraft branded version, element separating blocking oil gallies, etc.

So in with the Mobil1 or Bosch oil filter too.
Will also send sample of old oil to Blackstone, for analysis.
https://www.fordraptorforum.com/threads/low-engin-oil-pressure.56762/page-2

 

[JohnT]

Where was the oil on the dipstick? Reading that thread you posted, seemed to indicate that the oil stick isn't accurate, you should be at least to the full line and maybe slightly over.

Oil pressure light coming on when changing into gear smacks of low pressure when revs drop which can happen if intake pipe assemble is just at the oil level and is starting to suck air as well. Think noisy straw at the end of drinking a glass of pop.

 

[Mike Wolfe]

Please explain what you define as major?

MY experience has been that these engines are very durable so I doubt it is anything major
Possible just the connector to the oil pressure control solenoid
Of the six 3.5L ECOBOOST engines I have owned, always changed the oil at 5000 mile intervals
Always used full synthetic oil & OEM filters (have all my oil changes done at the dealer because free oil changes for life is part of the purchase deal)
None of them used enough oil to see a difference on the dipstick between changes
Always right at the full mark
Never had any mechanical issues with any of them
All of them tuned with 93 octane tunes within a few hundred miles of purchase
Always used 91-93 octane premium fuel in them when I could not get & mix E85 with premium

 

[5150 pops]

Sat all day, on level ground, I had a bit of a pitch where I normally park, so to be sure I moved it after I thought about it.

This is the stick.

 

[JohnT]

Assuming this is your oil level



Then we've ruled that out

Looks pretty clean as well

 

[Mike Wolfe]

Thought all of you might this interesting
Here is a pic of a Ford ECOBOOST piston


Note that they use a forged piston with a steel ring land for the top compression ring just like those used in Diesels
The also use deep skirt blocks with cross bolted mains, forged crankshafts & forged connecting rods
Makes them pretty bullet proof

 

[1955moose]

That's pretty stout stuff Mike. If it happens again be sure you snap plenty of pics from your phone, showing the dash low oil pressure, along with pics of dipstick level. When it comes to dealers you've got to prove your case. You might want to do an oil pressure test yourself, or maybe pay a shop. Just again for ammo, in case you have problems down the road. As far as oil filter, you might want to try a top filter besides Ford, if in fact their having breakdown of paper in filter. Ford racing filters, along with Mobil 1, and Royal purple are the 3 top ones out there. Not cheap, but do work well.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[5150 pops]

Thought all of you might this interesting
Here is a pic of a Ford ECOBOOST piston


Note that they use a forged piston with a steel ring land for the top compression ring just like those used in Diesels
The also use deep skirt blocks with cross bolted mains, forged crankshafts & forged connecting rods
Makes them pretty bullet proof

Might should add "almost" to that last statement.

Still no word from the almighty.
I'd say the oil level is actually a bit right of the center of arrow.

Sloshed Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter in it, made zero difference. Cycled ignition numerous times, on the way to dealer, before I realized "dummy clear the code on your phone".
That is the weird...clear code as soon as it triggers, immediately would show regular pressure in dash, then it would lose pressure on gauge, repeat.

Surprised it still ran, to be honest.

 

[Mike Wolfe]

Might should add "almost" to that last statement.

Still no word from the almighty.
I'd say the oil level is actually a bit right of the center of arrow.

Sloshed Mobil 1 oil and Mobil 1 filter in it, made zero difference. Cycled ignition numerous times, on the way to dealer, before I realized "dummy clear the code on your phone".
That is the weird...clear code as soon as it triggers, immediately would show regular pressure in dash, then it would lose pressure on gauge, repeat.

Surprised it still ran, to be honest.

Well Pops
Did you get trouble code P0521, 522, 523 or 524?
If it runs with no knocks then it has to electrical issue
Has to have oil pressure or engine would have seized by now
BTW if engine actually has no oil pressure I am pretty sure PCM would shut down engine
have you looked to if see you might have accidentally loosened the connector for the oil pressure solenoid when you installed the CAC?
It is to the right of the harmonic balancer (passenger side)
How about the EOP sensor connector directly above the oil filter?