2 strange issues today

[MBK2019]

Here's another update. Yesterday I took the truck to a local shop I always use for things I dont want to or cant undertake myself. Had them test all electrical and voltage components, battery, alternator etc...all tested strong and where they should be. There was an extreme amount of corrosion on the positive cable and post. Did a deep clean and got those all nice and shiny. They kept it for a few hours and couldn't get the issue to come up. The only thing they could tell from their machine is that there was a memory of the computer losing communication at some point but it didn't tell why or what may have been the cause. I went and picked it back up, drove it home with no issues.

Today it acts up again, same as before dash goes crazy and transmission stops pulling, got it going but did it again within 5 minutes. After stopping and letting it sit for a while we get back in and drive about 10 miles, this time we are cruising at about 60 mph, the truck jerks really hard, rear tires lock up and goes into a skid, trucks goes into limp mode. Limped it to a parking lot and went and got my truck and trailer and hauled it home. The only thing I know to do now is take it back to the shop and let them keep it until they can get it to mess up.

 

[MBK2019]

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[TobyU]

Is this a 6r80 trans? There is a recall on it with forced 1st gear downshift and locking rear tires and it is an OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR issue. You said you had a speed sensor code.

https://www.cars.com/articles/recal...tion-mustang-lincoln-navigator-1420684490318/

 

[MBK2019]

Yes, as far as I know it is a 6r80 trans, not sure how to tell for sure, but from what I've read that's what was used in all the 2012 v8 expeditions. But like I noted in an earlier post the recall only covers a specific build date range and mine is not in that date range.

 

[1955moose]

You might mention that code to the shop that's going to be working on it. If it's that simple, the part is in the trans pan, and real easy to change. Due to the corrosion on that cable, you may want to replace it, and the one going down to the starter. Probably not causing the issue, but a lot of others here have had weird things acting up with corroded positive cables. Let us know what fixes your problem.

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[TobyU]

Yes, as far as I know it is a 6r80 trans, not sure how to tell for sure, but from what I've read that's what was used in all the 2012 v8 expeditions. But like I noted in an earlier post the recall only covers a specific build date range and mine is not in that date range.

Ah, I missed that earlier. Still if you had an output sensor code I would try a new sensor as they are easy to change.
I wouldn't give ford the benefit of being completely accurate on their dates or serial numbers.

I worked in a truck plant and oddities do occur.

 

[jimz]

Seems after I take car to dealership I will always have a couple return trips for extra "problems". I can count on it that return trips will come soon. Makes me distrust going to dealerships. Probably just my cars it happens to.

 

[MBK2019]

So I just got off the phone with the shop. They did get it to lock up on them while driving but it did not set off any DTCs for them. They pulled the transmission pan and it seemed to them that the wrong filter was in it, they took it along with the VIN to Ford and it was the wrong filter so they got the right filter from Ford, also replaced the output speed sensor at my request and put it back on and filled it with new fluid. They checked the rear differential, brake system and rechecked all the power distribution to be sure there were no problems in any of those areas. All those things checked out... guess my question now is that would the wrong filter cause it to do this?? The shop couldn't guarantee that that is what was causing the specific problem but that it could cause issues. They drove it about 50-75 miles since they changed the filter with no issues. Guess I'm gonna go pick it up and see what happens.

 

[1955moose]

It could be. I reread your original post, and if a filter isn't right as far as fit, or sealing, more important, then yeah, your trans can't build pressure. My brother did a trans service on his 97 Thunderbird years back. He said it wouldn't shift or pull right, after a drain and fill. He pulled the pan, and found out he didn't pop the filter in right. After he did, all was good. I'm thinking that was probably your issue.

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[bobmbx]

Here's another update. Yesterday I took the truck to a local shop I always use for things I dont want to or cant undertake myself. Had them test all electrical and voltage components, battery, alternator etc...all tested strong and where they should be. There was an extreme amount of corrosion on the positive cable and post. Did a deep clean and got those all nice and shiny. They kept it for a few hours and couldn't get the issue to come up. The only thing they could tell from their machine is that there was a memory of the computer losing communication at some point but it didn't tell why or what may have been the cause. I went and picked it back up, drove it home with no issues.

Today it acts up again, same as before dash goes crazy and transmission stops pulling, got it going but did it again within 5 minutes. After stopping and letting it sit for a while we get back in and drive about 10 miles, this time we are cruising at about 60 mph, the truck jerks really hard, rear tires lock up and goes into a skid, trucks goes into limp mode. Limped it to a parking lot and went and got my truck and trailer and hauled it home. The only thing I know to do now is take it back to the shop and let them keep it until they can get it to mess up.

Sounds like your ECM is failing. Here is a report of my Mounty that experienced a forced engine shutdown at about 40-50mph on a 2-lane curvy road. None of the failures are related to each other, except by "loss of comms". BTW, the forced shutdown means no power brakes, no power steering...nothing. All of these occurred at the same time. And they were all false (truck started right back up and ran for months without issue).

Trouble Code Report

ECU Code Type Status Description
Antilock braking system C1280 Chassis Confirmed Yaw Rate Sensor Signal Fault
Instrument Cluster B1318 Body Confirmed Right Front Door Ajar Switch
Instrument Cluster B2097 Body Confirmed Compass Module Failure
Instrument Cluster U0208 Network Confirmed Lost Communication With Seat Control Module A
Instrument Cluster U2013 Network Confirmed Switch Pack
Instrument Cluster U1900 Network Confirmed (CAN) Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error
Instrument Cluster B1601 Body Confirmed At some time since last clear a (PATS) key used was not programmed for the module.
Powertrain Control Module P0600 PowerTrain Confirmed Serial Communication Link
Powertrain Control Module P2105 PowerTrain Confirmed Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Engine Shutdown
Restraint Control Module B1318 Body Confirmed Right Front Door Ajar Switch

 

[MBK2019]

It could be. I reread your original post, and if a filter isn't right as far as fit, or sealing, more important, then yeah, your trans can't build pressure. My brother did a trans service on his 97 Thunderbird years back. He said it wouldn't shift or pull right, after a drain and fill. He pulled the pan, and found out he didn't pop the filter in right. After he did, all was good. I'm thinking that was probably your issue.

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I'm hoping so. I am going to go ahead and do a good tune up on it, change plugs and such. Does everyone suggest sticking with the motorcraft plugs or somebody had better luck with any others?

 

[MBK2019]

Sounds like your ECM is failing. Here is a report of my Mounty that experienced a forced engine shutdown at about 40-50mph on a 2-lane curvy road. None of the failures are related to each other, except by "loss of comms". BTW, the forced shutdown means no power brakes, no power steering...nothing. All of these occurred at the same time. And they were all false (truck started right back up and ran for months without issue).

Trouble Code Report

ECU Code Type Status Description
Antilock braking system C1280 Chassis Confirmed Yaw Rate Sensor Signal Fault
Instrument Cluster B1318 Body Confirmed Right Front Door Ajar Switch
Instrument Cluster B2097 Body Confirmed Compass Module Failure
Instrument Cluster U0208 Network Confirmed Lost Communication With Seat Control Module A
Instrument Cluster U2013 Network Confirmed Switch Pack
Instrument Cluster U1900 Network Confirmed (CAN) Communication Bus Fault - Receive Error
Instrument Cluster B1601 Body Confirmed At some time since last clear a (PATS) key used was not programmed for the module.
Powertrain Control Module P0600 PowerTrain Confirmed Serial Communication Link
Powertrain Control Module P2105 PowerTrain Confirmed Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Engine Shutdown
Restraint Control Module B1318 Body Confirmed Right Front Door Ajar Switch

Thanks for the info bobmbx. I'm hoping it's not the ECM. And the shop didnt pull any codes except one I already knew about for a tire pressure sensor fault.

 

[TobyU]

I highly doubt the wrong filter could do it.

I have seen filters give little to no pressure of fluid and not or hardly move, seen them clog up and shift really late and higher speed after surging , but never lock up the trans or wheels.

If anything, the speed sensor replacement would be more likely to be the fix, if it ends up being fixed.

 

[MBK2019]

Alright so for the late update but heres what's been going on. Got the truck back from the shop last Thursday. Everything was great until yesterday. Drove to the store, went in for about 20-30 mins, came out crunk up, put it in drive, let off the brake and felt a big jerk. Truck went into limp mode. Turn it off, crunk it up, no change, still in limp mode. No power could tell it was trying to go but it wouldn't. Turned it off again crunk it up and it was fine. Drove about 3 miles, stopped at a restaurant to eat, went in for about 30 mins, came out, went to pull on the road and same thing again. Had to restart it a couple times before it straightened out. No DTCs during this time. After I got it going, didn't have any problems the drive home, about 30 mins. Drove to work this morning, no issues. Driving home this afternoon, about 15 mins in to a 30 min drive all the gauges on the dash shut down, cruise cuts off and goes in to limp mode again. Pulled over and had to restart 3 times before it came out of limp mode. One time I crunk it and the speedometer jumped up to like 40 mph and wouldn't come back down. Also something I did find...I changed the spark plugs the other day, one of the springs on cylinder 7 was not attached to the metal inside the coil, I reattached it..not sure if that had anything to do with anything just thought it was strange. I'm guess I'm back to the drawing board and thinking this is something electronic somewhere. Any other help on trying to narrow it down is appreciated.

 

[TobyU]

Well I would start back with some basics. Take off the battery cables clean them really well with a wire brush make sure they're clean and tight. Pull all the Maxi fuses out and reseat them in the fuse block and also the relays. Specifically look in the owner's manual for the brainbox computer relays. Either call ECU or ecm or whatever they want to call them now. Check ones for ignition and for computer and pull them up and reseat them. Find your main ground cable and make sure it is not loose.

 

[MBK2019]

Thanks. I'll try all that today. I did drive it again this morning. Seems like things are finally coming to head and getting more frequent. Again about 15 mins in I lost power and speedometer went to 0, digital display showed dashes with no info. I was at a red light turned it off and back on, no change. Started to take off from red light, no power while accelerating but about about 10 secs it regained power, RPM gauge was working but still no speedometer.

 

[1955moose]

I'm going out on a limb here, but with the heavy corrosion in your positive cable, I would eliminate it completely from battery, all the way to starter with new ones. We've had a few here that had strange issues kinda like yours, but different in some ways. On these vehicles, the corrosion gets into the strands of cable itself. The other thing I'd probably do first, even before cables, is replace your ignition switch, the electrical part. A tell tale sign of a failing switch is the dash lights going on/off, like your experiencing.

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[MBK2019]

I'm going out on a limb here, but with the heavy corrosion in your positive cable, I would eliminate it completely from battery, all the way to starter with new ones. We've had a few here that had strange issues kinda like yours, but different in some ways. On these vehicles, the corrosion gets into the strands of cable itself. The other thing I'd probably do first, even before cables, is replace your ignition switch, the electrical part. A tell tale sign of a failing switch is the dash lights going on/off, like your experiencing.

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I'm guessing when u say the electrical part that's just what the ignition plugs in to? Not the part where I would need to replace the keys and all?

 

[1955moose]

The part right behind the key tumbler assembly. They don't blow out often, and theirs a bunch of tests, one of our regulars with a nice computer can post it for you. But their relatively cheap to purchase, and easy to change. You may have other issues, but from the symptoms your describing, that's where I'd go next if I was working on this vehicle.


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[MBK2019]

Well...not what I really wanted to do but I took it over to the dealership yesterday afternoon. I'm so busy with work I don't have any time to be throwing parts at it so hopefully they will be able to narrow it down. With all the crazy stuff going on I'm of course expecting the worse which may be like a few on here have said and it being the ECM. I'm sure thru the dealership that's going to be a couple grand. I've researched and have found some OEM ones online that say they will program them by sending them my VIN. Question is if this does end up being the issue has anyone ever bought any online? What's the best place to go? Plug and go or will there be other things that need to be done? How hard is it to install? Or should I just bite the bullet and let the dealership do it.

I may be getting ahead of myself I just want to get some info before I get that call. And of course they are running about 3 days behind so it could be Friday before they can even look at it.