OP
OP
gixer2000
Retrofit or Bust
Hopefully I dont need 8 of those when I get home.... Lol
Good to see it didn't cause any major issues and a new bolt was available
Anyone ever use powerstop slotted rotors/pads
- Thread starter gixer2000
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Good to see it didn't cause any major issues and a new bolt was available
JExpedition07
That One Member
Apparently model years 06-09 have an oddball bolt so we land in that group. For us it’s a dealer trip, it looks like the other years have them available aftermarket.
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I studied up a bit before I drove out to the Rockies in Colorado up to BC because of the mountains. I fully serviced my brakes also. I read that you need to use the engine as a brake on long downhills and I think that works great. Brakes still required obviously but not the sole stopping tool. Most people know that I'm sure but I didn't so I thought I would mention it.
Years ago, riding my bicycle through the Rockies ... the advice was not to ride brakes all the way downhill for long distances. Could heat up rim and blow tire, then you fly off a cliff and .... it isn't advised. So I would always stop periodically and make sure not heating up rim.
In my early 20's, running to Finger Lakes in my BMW 318i I was young and stupid and ran it like it was a race going very fast in the hills around the lakes. On one downhill near end of a "race", the Beamer was just not stopping as I got to the bottom of a hill at a T intersection. Got out and looked and front rotors were glowing RED. I guess when they get that hot ... you don't have full braking power.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
Hehe, well brakes effectively take forward kinetic motion and stop us by using friction on the rotor which transfers the energy into heat. Basically our brakes transfer the energy of our motion into heat to slow us down. When things get hot friction is lost.... the brakes at that point cannot use that friction to dissipate heat energy... because the friction cant be achieved and the rotor cannot dissipate any more energy in heat, it's maxed out. The drilling and slotting helps to dissipate some of that heat id think.
http://dsportmag.com/the-tech/braking-101-the-system-physics-and-science-of-the-motion-management/
.... unless your a driving an electric hybrid, in which case the energy of motion is converted to electric charge and stored in the battery - which means less wear & tear & heat on the braking components. OR ... UPS has trucks that use the braking energy and hydraulic fluid to compress gas in a storage tank. That can be reversed and uses the compressed gas & hydraulics to create motion in the UPS truck. https://auto.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic-hybrid3.htm
don't even get me started on flywheels
JExpedition07
That One Member
we have come a long way.
1955moose
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I remember trying to stop my 56 VW bug in the rain, you prayed your weren't going to plow into the guy in front of you. I tried everything shoes, drums, arcing shoes to drums . 4 skinny drum brakes felt like pushing on a hard wooden board. I'll take my 4 wheel disc abs brakes any day!
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Muddy Bean
Full Access Members
So am I mistaken...I hear a ton of people mention that they warp their rotors when I do believe in actuality most normal drivers are just wearing out the rotors unevenly rather than actually warping them... maybe it’s pedantic but it’s worth mentioning.
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JExpedition07
That One Member
My fronts had warped like crazy a while back and had rust burres that were causing an intense deathly shake. They do indeed warp. I replaced all four all the way around this last week with Motorcraft rotors and powerstop pads. My fronts weren't old but wanted them all to be new and the same age.
Muddy Bean
Full Access Members
I’ve read a lot of tech articles that actually indicate that brake rotors do not warp... http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787
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JExpedition07
That One Member
Makes sense. It seems every time the dealer or shop works on my brakes they always "warp" because they use air guns on the lug nuts.
08T1
Full Access Members
Auto shops are notorious for touching their greasy fingers all over rotors....
Muddy Bean
Full Access Members
So in theory if our rotors are always installed properly to OEM torque specs, we should never experience the brake judders? Unless pad material is building up on them which I know can also cause this. Which is another argument against spending the money on drilled and slotted unless you really feel you need it.
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tommyddsr
Full Access Members
Had the slotted PowerStop brakes on my 2000 Expy. No complaints at all. Good quality at a fair price.
07navi
Full Access Members
I doubt if there is any silver bullet when is come to the pads. I would never spend a bunch on hyped up pads.
762mm
Full Access Members
Yes, ceramic pads. They are quieter, create less friction, never bite into the rotors and last 4x longer than semi-metallic or metallic.
The first time I tried them, I was a convert. They are well worth the extra cost... and FAR beyond! Also, with ceramic pads, you won't need slotted rotors (much less heat).
07navi
Full Access Members
Had both, ceramics have a downside and don't last 4 times, not even twice.
ExplorerTom
Full Access Members
I’ve had ceramic and hated them. Drive on the highway for awhile, exit and hit the brakes while on the off ramp....... and it felt like it took way more pressure to get it to stop. Cold ceramic pads = horrible cold bite. If the pads were warmed up, they did OK. So I guess you’re correct when you say ceramic pads “create less friction”. But friction is what’s needed to stop a vehicle.
But they do keep the wheels cleaner.....
I pulled off the ceramic pads and put on Hawk LTS. Talk about a difference maker! Can actually stop when the brakes are cold. I don’t know about you, but I don’t always have the luxury of bringing my brake pads up to temperature before I need them.
And the Hawk LTS aren’t very dusty either.
