Power Stop drilled and slotted full kit with calipers

[Adam J]

2,500 mile review of the powerstop kit i grabbed on rock auto for my 2016 expedition ssv.
when purchasing the vehicle with 80k miles, good stopping but slight shimmy that increased as brakes were warmer
rather than fiddle with some parts here and there, looked into a full kit with brand new calipers
found this kit for a great price on rock auto

POWER STOP​

KC557736 (KC5577-36)

Caliper, Rotor & Brake Pad Kit

$ 829.79​

They were running a special for $85 off and i was able to get the SS line kit on amazon for less than $100.
and $140 core back from Rock Auto for the calipers.
all in, a nice weekend project and i have brand new components at all 4 corners with fresh fluid and full stopping confidence.
race red painted calipers too - lol
i don't haul or tow, but figured they'd be the most durable variant - never grabby and always smooth.
no problems cold or hot.

 

[GlennSullivan]

Thanks for posting, something to consider when I need brakes.

 

[71Rcode]

I've used their non slotted rotor kit. Very happy.

 

[callwill]

Does any one worry that slotted and drilled rotors in the northeast will just collect salted crud in the slots and holes during the winter and accelerate the destruction process?

 

[hmt4life]

I’ve had the power stop z36 full kit, calipers, rotors and pads and love them. They have been on my 2007 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer EL for almost 3 years and they are great for towing and normal driving. I live in Northern Michigan where road commission uses lots of salt and have had no issues. Only thing is I believe brake material gets in the slots. Other then that a great set

 

[914rrr]

Any shimmy yet? on my 2011 Navigator I replaced the rotors with OEM's. Started shimmying in less 5k miles, especially after towing a UHaul car transporter with a light car on it.

 

[Moeman]

Does any one worry that slotted and drilled rotors in the northeast will just collect salted crud in the slots and holes during the winter and accelerate the destruction process?

I've always read that slotted/drilled takes away friction surface, creates a point to cracks to emanate from, and is not necessary unless you're really heating up the brakes. I like the idea of sticking with solid.

 

[JKH13]

2,500 mile review of the powerstop kit i grabbed on rock auto for my 2016 expedition ssv.
when purchasing the vehicle with 80k miles, good stopping but slight shimmy that increased as brakes were warmer
rather than fiddle with some parts here and there, looked into a full kit with brand new calipers
found this kit for a great price on rock auto

POWER STOP​

KC557736 (KC5577-36)

Caliper, Rotor & Brake Pad Kit

$ 829.79​

They were running a special for $85 off and i was able to get the SS line kit on amazon for less than $100.
and $140 core back from Rock Auto for the calipers.
all in, a nice weekend project and i have brand new components at all 4 corners with fresh fluid and full stopping confidence.
race red painted calipers too - lol
i don't haul or tow, but figured they'd be the most durable variant - never grabby and always smooth.
no problems cold or hot.View attachment 80002

 

[MpiersD]

I put these on my wife's 2017 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited just after purchasing it second hand with 29k miles on it.
Immediate improvement in braking, have since paired the rotors with EBC pads and am extremely happy with the braking on her brick of an SUV.
I have these on the short list of things to do on my '08 Expedition once I get done with the "repair and maintenance" list.

 

[OrlandoExpyOwner]

2,500 mile review of the powerstop kit i grabbed on rock auto for my 2016 expedition ssv.
when purchasing the vehicle with 80k miles, good stopping but slight shimmy that increased as brakes were warmer
rather than fiddle with some parts here and there, looked into a full kit with brand new calipers
found this kit for a great price on rock auto

POWER STOP​

KC557736 (KC5577-36)

Caliper, Rotor & Brake Pad Kit

$ 829.79​

They were running a special for $85 off and i was able to get the SS line kit on amazon for less than $100.
and $140 core back from Rock Auto for the calipers.
all in, a nice weekend project and i have brand new components at all 4 corners with fresh fluid and full stopping confidence.
race red painted calipers too - lol
i don't haul or tow, but figured they'd be the most durable variant - never grabby and always smooth.
no problems cold or hot.View attachment 80002

Adam, thanks for posting. I have been thinking about installing this exact Power Stop kit on our 2016 Expedition.

I have never replaced pads, rotors, calipers myself. I’m currently accumulating all the tools needed. I’m confident I can do it. But the part that concerns me is bleeding the brakes after everything is installed. Considering the importance of that step, how difficult is it? Or more importantly, how easy is it to screw it up?

Is it necessary or recommended to replace the brake lines with stainless steel lines? We’ve got about 105k miles on the Expedition. Will replacing the lines make bleeding the brakes more difficult?

Lastly, any other pointers or advice for a brake job newbie?

Thanks again!

 

[JasonH]

Lastly, any other pointers or advice for a brake job newbie?

Thanks again!

Watch a bunch of Youtube videos. Make sure the e-brake is off. I tried to pull a rotor once with it on. Boy did I feel stupid when I realized why it wouldn't come off. It even broke one of my cheap Harbor Freight pullers. Keep some heavy duty zip ties nearby so you can secure the caliper while working. You don't want it to drop and damage the hose. Pay attention to the bumps on the pad's metal backing plate. Some have them, some don't. My recollection is they go on the inside, but you'll want to confirm. There's a square caliper piston tool you'll want to have to push the pistons back into the caliper body. You may want a breaker for the caliper mount bolts. Some people recommend against going stainless because it makes it harder to spot leaks or failing hoses. I'm at 153K on the original hoses, and I've towed thousands of miles without issue. That's all I can recall on this subject from memory. Generally it's a relatively straightforward job.

 

[OrlandoExpyOwner]

Watch a bunch of Youtube videos. Make sure the e-brake is off. I tried to pull a rotor once with it on. Boy did I feel stupid when I realized why it wouldn't come off. It even broke one of my cheap Harbor Freight pullers. Keep some heavy duty zip ties nearby so you can secure the caliper while working. You don't want it to drop and damage the hose. Pay attention to the bumps on the pad's metal backing plate. Some have them, some don't. My recollection is they go on the inside, but you'll want to confirm. There's a square caliper piston tool you'll want to have to push the pistons back into the caliper body. You may want a breaker for the caliper mount bolts. Some people recommend against going stainless because it makes it harder to spot leaks or failing hoses. I'm at 153K on the original hoses, and I've towed thousands of miles without issue. That's all I can recall on this subject from memory. Generally it's a relatively straightforward job.

Thanks so much Jason! I’m driving my wife crazy watching different YouTube videos about replacing brakes.

 

[callwill]

I've always read that slotted/drilled takes away friction surface, creates a point to cracks to emanate from, and is not necessary unless you're really heating up the brakes. I like the idea of sticking with solid.

Yes, slightly decreased stopping power, but in a heated brake situation you would not lose as much braking power to the heat, also less likely to warp...trade offs.

 

[tri650]

I have been thinking about the same thing. I see you went with the tow version. I was thinking about the sport version as I really don't do any towing. Not sure what the difference is between the two. I'll try and find out

 

[Snidley53]

I put the powerstop ceramic pads and slotted rotors on my 2016 Expy XLT EL soon after I got it as we had a travel trailer to tow. I had no issues with stopping at any time whether towing or not. As I have done pads and rotors on other vehicles I have owned the job was not difficult for me. One thing you do need to be aware of is that they have a specific break-in procedure to follow so that you get the best stopping power. In my opinion, they are a great product at a bit higher price than other brands.

 

[Trainmaster]

That's more than I pay for my OEM Motorcraft rotors, pads, pins and boots. And I get 55,000 miles out of those in city driving. I swear by them after years of cheaping out with aftermarket junk that warps in a month.

To each his own I suppose.

Anyone doing these brakes, in the northeast at least, should be prepared for rotors that don't want to come off. You need at least a big lump hammer. Prepare to do some work. The 2008's and maybe 2007's had an odd hardware and caliper design. Do some research on this site if you are working on them.

I change the caliper pins along with boots and all hardware. I also use anti-seize when I replace the drums. It's all cheap insurance. Also it's quite possible to find your parking brake components rusted to uselessness, so you may have to buy a set of parking brake shoes and hardware at the last minute...

I forget if the Expedition requires a 9mm Allen socket. If it does, shop for one in advance, as you'll be riding around a half dozen parts stores looking for one after taking your wheels off.