Power Stop drilled and slotted full kit with calipers

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

JasonH

Full Access Members
Joined
Nov 12, 2018
Posts
1,329
Reaction score
709
Location
Houston, TX
Lastly, any other pointers or advice for a brake job newbie?

Thanks again!
Watch a bunch of Youtube videos. Make sure the e-brake is off. I tried to pull a rotor once with it on. Boy did I feel stupid when I realized why it wouldn't come off. It even broke one of my cheap Harbor Freight pullers. Keep some heavy duty zip ties nearby so you can secure the caliper while working. You don't want it to drop and damage the hose. Pay attention to the bumps on the pad's metal backing plate. Some have them, some don't. My recollection is they go on the inside, but you'll want to confirm. There's a square caliper piston tool you'll want to have to push the pistons back into the caliper body. You may want a breaker for the caliper mount bolts. Some people recommend against going stainless because it makes it harder to spot leaks or failing hoses. I'm at 153K on the original hoses, and I've towed thousands of miles without issue. That's all I can recall on this subject from memory. Generally it's a relatively straightforward job.
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2023
Posts
15
Reaction score
4
Location
Orlando, Florida
Watch a bunch of Youtube videos. Make sure the e-brake is off. I tried to pull a rotor once with it on. Boy did I feel stupid when I realized why it wouldn't come off. It even broke one of my cheap Harbor Freight pullers. Keep some heavy duty zip ties nearby so you can secure the caliper while working. You don't want it to drop and damage the hose. Pay attention to the bumps on the pad's metal backing plate. Some have them, some don't. My recollection is they go on the inside, but you'll want to confirm. There's a square caliper piston tool you'll want to have to push the pistons back into the caliper body. You may want a breaker for the caliper mount bolts. Some people recommend against going stainless because it makes it harder to spot leaks or failing hoses. I'm at 153K on the original hoses, and I've towed thousands of miles without issue. That's all I can recall on this subject from memory. Generally it's a relatively straightforward job.
Thanks so much Jason! I’m driving my wife crazy watching different YouTube videos about replacing brakes.
 

callwill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2023
Posts
49
Reaction score
14
Location
WNY
I've always read that slotted/drilled takes away friction surface, creates a point to cracks to emanate from, and is not necessary unless you're really heating up the brakes. I like the idea of sticking with solid.
Yes, slightly decreased stopping power, but in a heated brake situation you would not lose as much braking power to the heat, also less likely to warp...trade offs.
 

tri650

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2017
Posts
21
Reaction score
9
Location
St. Louis, MO
I have been thinking about the same thing. I see you went with the tow version. I was thinking about the sport version as I really don't do any towing. Not sure what the difference is between the two. I'll try and find out
 

Snidley53

Active Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2019
Posts
32
Reaction score
9
Location
Indiana
I put the powerstop ceramic pads and slotted rotors on my 2016 Expy XLT EL soon after I got it as we had a travel trailer to tow. I had no issues with stopping at any time whether towing or not. As I have done pads and rotors on other vehicles I have owned the job was not difficult for me. One thing you do need to be aware of is that they have a specific break-in procedure to follow so that you get the best stopping power. In my opinion, they are a great product at a bit higher price than other brands.
 

Trainmaster

Old School Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2017
Posts
3,402
Reaction score
1,925
Location
Rockaway Beach, NY
That's more than I pay for my OEM Motorcraft rotors, pads, pins and boots. And I get 55,000 miles out of those in city driving. I swear by them after years of cheaping out with aftermarket junk that warps in a month.

To each his own I suppose.

Anyone doing these brakes, in the northeast at least, should be prepared for rotors that don't want to come off. You need at least a big lump hammer. Prepare to do some work. The 2008's and maybe 2007's had an odd hardware and caliper design. Do some research on this site if you are working on them.

I change the caliper pins along with boots and all hardware. I also use anti-seize when I replace the drums. It's all cheap insurance. Also it's quite possible to find your parking brake components rusted to uselessness, so you may have to buy a set of parking brake shoes and hardware at the last minute...

I forget if the Expedition requires a 9mm Allen socket. If it does, shop for one in advance, as you'll be riding around a half dozen parts stores looking for one after taking your wheels off.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
53,584
Posts
502,195
Members
47,161
Latest member
M Bennett
Top