Hvac issues!!

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Jingram1083

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So first, the front fan, which is dual climate control stopped working. Wiggles the blower motor resistor harness and it worked for a short period. So I then changed the harness. Still wouldn’t work, and if it did, only on high. So I changed the blower motor resistor. Now it works on low, and on high, but on speeds in between it fluctuates intermittently up and down with speed.

second, I have heat and a/c up front, but no heat in the back. Checked the lines that run under the truck to the back. There are 4. 3 big, 1 small. The 2 outside big lines are hot, and the other 2 are cold after running vehicle. Kinda lost at this point. Just want heat in the rear, and my damn fan to work on the setting I choose lol.
 

JExpedition07

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I presume you replaced the plug harness and BCM (Blower Control Module). Dual Zone Climate doesn’t utilize a resistor that is only for manual systems. I had the fan working intermittently/fluctuating and replaced those two parts as well with no relief. Ended up being the blower motor itself that needed replacing then all was well. Next time the fan goes out tap the fan motor itself and see if it turns back on. Blower cage is up under glovebox right front all the way forward. This is how I figured out mine was wonky.....it would die then I could tap the fan housing and it would restart.

Heat will only come out the floor vents on the rear system on these trucks, no heat out of the overhead vents. Heat comes out floor and A/C comes out overhead in rear.
 
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aagitch

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What years does heat only come out of floor for rear? On my 17 I can get heat to come out of the overhead vents if using the rear controls.
 

Dustin Gebhardt

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What years does heat only come out of floor for rear? On my 17 I can get heat to come out of the overhead vents if using the rear controls.
My '07 is heat only on the bottom and cool only out of the top. I found this out this weekend while doing multiple projects: I replaced the ABS pump, replaced the heater hose (the one for the front heater core from the front/top of the engine), replaced the rear blower fan, and replaced 8 spark plugs. 8 hours later, when everything was mostly buttoned back up, I turned the Expy on and turned the heat all the way up, front and back, and fans set to full blast, to test for leaks from the new heater hose and to test the the rear blower. I could hear the new blower running, but I couldn't feel any air coming from the top vents. It took a few seconds for my weary brain to make the logical connection between the temperature setting and which vents were used. I moved the rear temperature from max-heat to max-cool and the top vents began to push air.
 

JExpedition07

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My '07 is heat only on the bottom and cool only out of the top. I found this out this weekend while doing multiple projects: I replaced the ABS pump, replaced the heater hose (the one for the front heater core from the front/top of the engine), replaced the rear blower fan, and replaced 8 spark plugs. 8 hours later, when everything was mostly buttoned back up, I turned the Expy on and turned the heat all the way up, front and back, and fans set to full blast, to test for leaks from the new heater hose and to test the the rear blower. I could hear the new blower running, but I couldn't feel any air coming from the top vents. It took a few seconds for my weary brain to make the logical connection between the temperature setting and which vents were used. I moved the rear temperature from max-heat to max-cool and the top vents began to push air.

They set this up because it’s much more efficient to heat from the floor, and cool from the headliner. Heat rises and cool air falls. Same reason when your truck switches to heat in fall it starts coming out the floor and defrost vents instead of the mains like it does during summer months. If heating from the headliner much of it is lost by conduction through the non-insulated roof and the floor goes cold. Ford just set it up so people don’t have to think about it lol.
 

Mmart

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I too just realized recently that the rear heat zone only comes from the floor (thanks to this forum). But besides that when the truck sits in the cold nine out of ten times I need to tap under the glove box to get the fan running. I just want to be sure is that the fan motor itself? Or is it the wiring harness under there that normally causes this. I haven’t dug into this issue yet. And for the record I have a 2010 EB
Thanks
 

jcmeyer5

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2015 Expedition here... same, no blower function. Climate control with dual zones. Havent tried tapping the motor yet. Anything else I can check?
 

Muddy Bean

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2015 EL limited. I can confirm that we can choose to put heat out of ceiling vents and it’s nice.


Second, yes if you blower is turning off and on, give the housing under the dash a good whack. If it comes back on, replace the blower fan.


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07navi

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I too just realized recently that the rear heat zone only comes from the floor (thanks to this forum). But besides that when the truck sits in the cold nine out of ten times I need to tap under the glove box to get the fan running. I just want to be sure is that the fan motor itself? Or is it the wiring harness under there that normally causes this. I haven’t dug into this issue yet. And for the record I have a 2010 EB
Thanks
dig into it
 

Muddy Bean

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Not yet. Haven’t had time but it’s on my list and will be done in the next couple of weeks.


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5x10

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My rear ac isn’t blowing cold
Front ac is fine

also the blower?
 

Don Pitchers

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Good Morning all. I have a 2015 Expedition and the front blower motor has stopped. Replaced the resistor (See Picture) as it had a scorched pin. Still no blower. Went on to replace the relay and 40A fuse and still nothing. I have event tried to suggestions of wiggling the resistor harness and nothing. Any other suggestions. I am scheduled to take it to the dealership tomorrow to have them look at it.

20200719_114658[1].jpg
 

Michael McC

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Having similar issues. 2016 KR with dual zone climate. Front fans went out, then rear. I have tried a new relay, resistor, and checked fuses. Thinking of replacing the climate control module (Motorcraft CCM73). Anyone have any other advice? Doubt it’s blower motor. That would not explain rear going out. Also, outside temp is not working. Shows dashes where numbers should be.
 
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Michael McC

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Follow-up. Bought the CCM. Replaced it. Had to remove the middle dash panel and the CD player and APIC (nav/radio/etc.). The CCM is mounted under the dash behind the APIC. Then, since the CCM is delivered "asleep" (according to the technicians) I had to pay someone to program it. A/C now works again. Posting for reference in case anyone looks up what to do when their A/C quits blowing.
 

Trainmaster

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Then, since the CCM is delivered "asleep" (according to the technicians) I had to pay someone to program it.
Thank again EPA overeach. Trucks made for the US market have "limited" interior cooling programming, to "suggest and advance lower home cooling and energy use". Regardless of how low you set the temperature setting, you get a "modulated" response. Meanwhile, trucks exported to Dubai put ice on the windows.

You might want to consider this on Election Day, unless, of course you believe paying $70,000 to sweat in traffic is your patriotic duty; saving whales and stuff.
 
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mossback

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Follow-up. Bought the CCM. Replaced it. Had to remove the middle dash panel and the CD player and APIC (nav/radio/etc.). The CCM is mounted under the dash behind the APIC. Then, since the CCM is delivered "asleep" (according to the technicians) I had to pay someone to program it. A/C now works again. Posting for reference in case anyone looks up what to do when their A/C quits blowing.

Any thoughts or ideas why the CCM died?
 

adamsdaddy

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Follow-up. Bought the CCM. Replaced it. Had to remove the middle dash panel and the CD player and APIC (nav/radio/etc.). The CCM is mounted under the dash behind the APIC. Then, since the CCM is delivered "asleep" (according to the technicians) I had to pay someone to program it. A/C now works again. Posting for reference in case anyone looks up what to do when their A/C quits blowing.
@Michael McC What made you decide to replace the CCM instead of throwing other parts at it? Just curious cause I wouldn't have suspected a module - not that I know anything about cars. In addition, did you figure out on your own how to take apart the dash or did you find a YouTube video or how to somewhere?
 

sterlinga

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I saw many ended up replacing this Control Board unit.
Is the fre-programming is done after the installation is buttoned up or while the dash is open?

For me. 6 months ago FORD replaced my blower motor (ONLY) per the recall, it still only worked intermittently so they diagnosed a need to replace, at my expense,
(Motorcraft) YH-1829 A/C Blower Motor Switch / Resistor AND the pigtail connector since the connection had fused from overheating.
THOSE were NOT covered by the recall notwithstanding 100's or more complaints to FORD and NHTSA.

However, it then ONLY worked on high.
ALWAYS on high. If the key was on, the HVAC ON/OFF was useless (It's LED would go off and on but not the blower.) Likewise speed + and - did nothing. EVERY OTHER FUNCTION/Button worked fine. Temperature could be regulated and Rear A/C could be activated just fine,

Yesterday, $595 later, FORD has diagnosed the Control Board (FL1Z-19980-K) in the dash. Didn't replace it because FL1Z-19980-K is on a nationwide backorder with no ETA.
Oh, and when/if it does become available, FORD wants $758 to install (part, tax and labor).

BTW, I have a irrepressible suspicion that the Control Board Relay overheating failure is linked to the overheating/fused resistor connection, all stemming from the Blower Motor overheating failure that FORD did agree to recall
 
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