TexEx
Well-Known Member
So how is it running after all that vital work? I heard that new oil pump really makes a huge difference..redesigned cast iron, increased flow etc...
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Noise on start up
- Thread starter Shantheman73
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
TexEx
Well-Known Member
Plastic chain guides perhaps in addition to loose chain...
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
07navi
Full Access Members
The flow is controlled by the clearances in the engine which is why a super duper pump rarely helps. I will probably won't bother to ever buy one for mine.
OP
OP
Shantheman73
Full Access Members
Yeah I’m curious how it’s running since having the work done?
2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
07navi
Full Access Members
It better run good after 3 grand...….lol. Yours would run good with 1 new tensioner but they are just hard to get to. Consider doing it yourself. I put 2 new ones in mine and nothing else and it ran great.
JExpedition07
That One Member
Most people *could* get away with just tensioners and guides to fix early stages I’d guess. Thing is when you are in that far you might as well replace the timing parts. I don’t want to go back in again.
TexEx
Well-Known Member
Gotcha, i was asking t_bois if he noticed a difference, he mentioned he recently purchased one in addition to his other improvements..
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
07navi
Full Access Members
I guess if it needs it and it depends on how long you are going to keep it, how many miles are on it, how easy it is for you to fix it, etc. I could do it in a day if I rush and everything is there but I understand not everyone can or wants to do that. Like I said earlier my guides looked so good at 200+k miles and rattling every morning for two winters for 5 minutes every startup that I didn't even bother to put the new ones in I bought for it. Not to mention the tight chain.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Shantheman73
Full Access Members
Well...I recently bought this thing and knew it would be a labor of love.
I’ve done a few coil packs, spark plugs, starter, ac compressor, transmission fluid flush, new tires, and brakes/rotors at all 4 corners. At this point, if the engine work gets another 100k or more miles out of it...I’ll be happy.
2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
tennford
Member
Not an easy job at all if you’ve never done one but if you’ve ever done overhead cam timing belts or chains it’s not that difficult. Amazon has all the parts cheap from 90.00 on up depending on brand. Personally I’d use motor craft parts. On amazon they aren’t that high and you do not want to do this twice. If it was a 5 minute job go cheap but this is not.
IIRC, Honda cars from the late 80's (possibly longer) used engine oil for their transmissions.
To OP, not mentioned and read the entire thread. Possibly too late, but is a crate motor possibly in the equation? Or too much?
I have spent a few grand for repairs/improvements after I bought my '03 5.4 EB 2WD. A fair 144k miles. I'd seriously consider for my truck a reman engine. Engine cost, plus labor (I have an insanely inexpensive indy shop, but great on work) very close to $3K+'ish, not adding core or taxes if applicable. Everything else on the '03 is running great.
Of course there could be other weak links down the road, but that's the way it works with cars/trucks with mileage.
OP
OP
Shantheman73
Full Access Members
I checked with ford for a engine swap. They wanted $9k for what I assume was a new one. Looked at junkyard engines that were in $2k range, and of course that’s not counting pulling old and installing it.
From what it sounds like...the 5.4’s are stout engines other than the freaking tensioners and cam phasers. If I can get both done for $2500...it seems most everything else should be sorted out on my rig. (Knock on wood). The last thing I want to do is get the fluids swapped for transfer case and diffs...but that’s not mission critical at this moment.
2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Understood. Like you, I have on the 'radar' other fluid flush.
Just for S & G's, I was looking at these folks - https://www.powertrainproducts.net/Ford-5-4-Engine-s/803.htm
Can't recommend them as have not used them. Seems like a decent option if my 5.4 needs a costly repair. I wouldn't tackle at my place since they would not allow repairs at my complex - and don't have access to a garage either for repairs. Sucks.
And I too have heard these engines can be good if well maintained. I'm also glad gas in my area is sub $2.00 range. Just topped off at $1.83/gal.
t_bois
Member
t_bois
Member
WOW! This post just move right along. So I had a local shop do the work. I had them use all Ford parts and I order a milling oil pump. I still have a bit of a knock when the motors cold but I'll live with that for now. I really wanted to get another 50K out of this thing so I can buy a newer one with the 10 speed tranny.
t_bois
Member
Here is the quote from my original post
"So what oil are you using? 5w10 or 10w 30? Is this when it's cold or hot or does it sound like that all the time?
I just spent 3K on new timing chains, cam phasers, and the rest of all the associated parts plus a new oil hi pressure pump."
I'm now fixing other misc. issues like Blend Door actuators.
"So what oil are you using? 5w10 or 10w 30? Is this when it's cold or hot or does it sound like that all the time?
I just spent 3K on new timing chains, cam phasers, and the rest of all the associated parts plus a new oil hi pressure pump."
I'm now fixing other misc. issues like Blend Door actuators.
OP
OP
Shantheman73
Full Access Members
Is the knock while running or at start up only?
2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
t_bois
Member
It's on start up when it's cold and it's been sitting. when it's warm it sounds normal.
OP
OP
Shantheman73
Full Access Members
Wow that’s interesting...Esp since you had all that replaced. Thank you for responding!
2007 Ford Expedition Limited
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
07navi
Full Access Members
That's because when it sits the oil drains out of the leaking tensioner and is refilled when you start it. When it's cold it all takes a bit longer which gives the timing chain time to slap against the guides since the guide that is pushed by the leaking tensioner hasn't put any tension on the chain yet. 2 of the 4 guides are moved by the 2 tensioners and the other 2 are just acting as guides and don't move. The worse the tensioner leak is the longer the chain will slap because it takes more of an effort to fill the leaking tensioner. The plastic on the guides will eventually break up with all the pounding but it could take some time. Again; the guides on my Ford v-10 were like new after 200,000+ miles and 2 winters of slapping due to a blown out o-ring in one tensioner. It's always just one that blows out and it's like getting 2 flats at the same time; it just doesn't happen.
Similar threads
