Cricket sound when accelerating

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ExplorerTom

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What if you hit the brakes fast or stop on an incline? What if you turn the HVAC fan off?

I have a cricket-like noise and believe it’s the HVAC fan.
 

07navi

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It sounds like a bad bearing somewhere. I heard of ticking manifolds but not chirping ones. How often does it chirp?
 
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Michael McC

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The noise appeared one day, and has been consistent since then. Always occurs on cold startup and when accelerating under load. Does not occur if you just rev it in park. The pitch changes somewhat with RPM. I was thinking a bearing in the turbo. If you accelerate softly, it does not occur, so it seems like it is when the turbo kicks in, but that would not explain why it happens on start-up.
A leaking exhaust manifold would have the same profile. Only leaks when compression is high, and the RPM of the engine could affect the pitch. What I have read in other forums makes me lean towards exhaust.
 

Muddy Bean

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Mine does this too. I thought it was either the wastegate valve fluttering or maybe a boost leak.


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Michael McC

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Take a quick check of your belt pulleys and tensioner. They sometimes make noises like that.
Good thought...but it doesn't happen when revving. Only when under load. So I think it's compression related, thus turbo or exhaust, which are kind of the same system!
Thanks all for replies.
 

07navi

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Good thought...but it doesn't happen when revving. Only when under load. So I think it's compression related, thus turbo or exhaust, which are kind of the same system!
Thanks all for replies.
It could be acceleration load related also, which brings it back to my bad bearing theory.
 

Brubro

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My 2016 with 80K miles just developed a chirping noise like a cricket when accelerating. It happens on startup and when accelerating. I was afraid it was a turbo bearing, but then found the thread below. I think it's the exhaust manifold. Anyone have experience with this?

https://www.f150ecoboost.net/threads/resolution-to-squealing-noise.8028/#post-162750

My experience with this sort of noise is that it is most likely a bad bearing in one of the pulley components. Check idler & tensioner first, then work your way from there to the other parasitic draw engine components.

Good luck, due diligence will pay off. Sometimes you have to wait for it to get bad enough where it will happen in park. Tensioner and idler (and others, of course) when spun, will feel off, there will be some excessive play, etc.
 

legendary70

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Similar sound on mine. Mech told me it is the manifold (headers) area. Air is escaping (leak).
 
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Michael McC

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Similar sound on mine. Mech told me it is the manifold (headers) area. Air is escaping (leak).
I'm convinced that is what it is. I am getting some air leak noise at idle as well now. Did your mechanic give you a quote for the repair? Not sure I want to/am capable of digging in to fix mine. (See first post for what it takes.)
 
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Michael McC

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Just to follow up on this thread, confirmed by mechanic--broken stud on exhaust manifold, causing leak. I have a pair of CR Performance manifolds on order. When stock have a reputation for warping/breaking bolts, it's worth it to me to replace with aftermarket. The CR Performance have a good rep on the F150ecoboost forum. Now, whether to replace turbos at the same time...maybe upgrade. Might as well have some fun if we're tearing into that area!

By the way, the mechanic sees a lot of exhaust manifold problems with these engines, but far more on Chevy's.
 
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Michael McC

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Update on my exhaust leak. I got the exhaust manifolds in last week. I also ordered a pair of upgraded Melett CHRA turbo cores from CR Performance, thinking that the labor to get to them is done...I have 80,000 pretty hard miles...why not spend another $900 and prevent a turbo problem while adding a little performance?

Car is apart now at the mechanic. They called me and sent pictures. Both turbo housings and downpipes are cracked. Having to order those as well.

Total job is going to be north of $3,500 on a less-than-5 year old vehicle.

I'm guessing that towing horse trailers in Texas heat did this. I know towing is hard on a vehicle, but maybe the people who say the V6 is not built for that kind of load are right. It sure pulls well though.
 

JasonH

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Bump...I'm having a similar issue on my 2017 with 128K. Trying to figure out (1) which manifold to replace with (OEM or aftermarket) and (2) whether to tackle it myself. I got a quote of $800 from the Ford dealer for 4.5 hours of labor + parts. I just need another year or two out of this thing until my wife is done with school. In reading online forums, it's appears the CRP manifolds still fail. BD Diesel has one that supposedly uses more studs, but I haven't seen a diagram of the cylinder head to see how it actually attaches. It doesn't make any sense that the head would have holes for studs that are unused, but that's what BD is saying. It's not clear if you tap the holes for the additional studs, or if the holes are already in place.

 

OGBobbyJohnson

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Holes are already in place. I’m having trouble finding the replacements in stock. 2-3 weeks for the CRP and over a month for the BD diesel with the 11 holes. I have mine torn apart because of both rear studs broken that was noticed when upgrading the turbos. Guess i had better look closer at the down pipes on my 17. Had the same cricket sound but also left turbo was leaking coolant.
 

JasonH

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Holes are already in place. I’m having trouble finding the replacements in stock. 2-3 weeks for the CRP and over a month for the BD diesel with the 11 holes. I have mine torn apart because of both rear studs broken that was noticed when upgrading the turbos. Guess i had better look closer at the down pipes on my 17. Had the same cricket sound but also left turbo was leaking coolant.
Are you doing the work yourself? If so, what does the time commitment look like? I have a few towing trips planned this summer and would like to get the manifold(s) replaced before hitting the road. I'm wary of getting starting and not being able to tap out a broken stud or something. Right now the problem isn't severe...the manifold expands and seems to seal when hot. But I expect that it will get progressively worse.
 

OGBobbyJohnson

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Are you doing the work yourself? If so, what does the time commitment look like? I have a few towing trips planned this summer and would like to get the manifold(s) replaced before hitting the road. I'm wary of getting starting and not being able to tap out a broken stud or something. Right now the problem isn't severe...the manifold expands and seems to seal when hot. But I expect that it will get progressively worse.
About 2.5hrs each side down to the manifold but got lucky with studs having plenty left to get vise grips on. Studs actually came out without issues. YouTube has some good videos with tips and exact tools to help.
 
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