Big 3

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panda24619

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ive been wanted to do this just because. i know what to do just confused on how to do it. i was looking and it seems the alt to battery has a fuse on it. assuming so extra amperage will just blow the fuse instead of the battery. and i cant seem to find the engine block ground. i think im just looking wrong. so i also get rid of all the old wires or just add new 0 gauge cables and keep the old stuff on there too?
 

Chrismdean09

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Alright for power just run it straight to the power terminal the battery cannot be blown so it can take the amps. Then I never grounded the engine block because A. I didnt find a descent point yet and I dont have a jack at college so I cant look at the underside. Lastly leave all the stock equipment there leave the stock ground and power wire it just keeps it easy.
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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o okay. thx. thats what i was gonna do just didnt know if i could or not.
 

Nokturnal

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my engine block go ground was right on top, on the intake manifold. i have a 4.6 though.

and the reason you fuse the alt to battery is so just in case the wire comes loose from the alternator and grounds out it doesn't fry everything it just blows the fuse.
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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yeah. im not doing this any time soon though. in the future once i get enough money saved to buy a spool of 0 gauge. ill do it. but i think ill fuse it just because the other one is fused too. and ill find that engine ground. ill go to my old high school and use the lift and see if i can find it underneath.
 

Nokturnal

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if you're just getting the cable for the big 3 you need nowhere close to a spool

knukonceptz.com yo

good stuff for good prices. wait let me rephrase that, awesome stuff for awesome prices.

for my big 3 is took around a foot and a half for block to ground, a foot and a half for battery to ground, and 2 feet for alternator to battery. around 5 feet total.

going off knukonceptz prices for 1 awg, less than 20 for kolossus flex, less than 10 for kca

if you use 4 awg it's even cheaper; which, is really all that's needed. At such short cable lengths 1 awg is literally overkill for almost any electrical system. If you have a 300+ amp electrical system then you could maybe benefit from 1 awg for the big three, but honestly, just go with 4 awg. both the cable and the connectors are cheaper and it's easier to work with.
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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hmm... thats something to think about thx. and i was gonna get a spool b/c i need to upgrade my power wire and im gonna get a 4 channel too so i need the power for that. you know how long these trucks are to reach the back. but i might get 4 awg for the big 3 then 0 gauge to a distribution block then 4 awg to my amps.
 

Chrismdean09

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imho you should use 1/o cause its rated for 250 amps at least knukon is so 4awg def wont cut it especially if you have a h/o alternator/ plan on getting one
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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well i dont think ill need a high output alt. maybe. but i think im gonna get 0 gauge. dont know what has the best price and what not. i know i dont want cheap Chinese crap though. i want a loud system but mainly i want to be able to power a lot of lights and not have to run 2 alts. i could but dont wanna. plus my dad wants me to get rid of her cause shes a money pit but hell she still runs great and nvr lets me down... knock on wood. going to glamis in a week. dont need this right now. haha
 

Nokturnal

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imho you should use 1/o cause its rated for 250 amps at least knukon is so 4awg def wont cut it especially if you have a h/o alternator/ plan on getting one

at those lengths 4awg can pass 250 amps, plus I'm assuming he's keeping the stock wiring in also, so with 4awg on top of stock it should handle over 300 amps easy for the big 3.
 

Nokturnal

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hmm... thats something to think about thx. and i was gonna get a spool b/c i need to upgrade my power wire and im gonna get a 4 channel too so i need the power for that. you know how long these trucks are to reach the back. but i might get 4 awg for the big 3 then 0 gauge to a distribution block then 4 awg to my amps.

if you're talking about that crunch amp, what size power wire are you running right now? cause if you already have 4awg for that crunch amp, which I'm assuming is 1000max, 400ish rms, you could add a 4 channel amp to the wire you already have and be fine. Real 4awg power wire can transfer 1000wrms up to around 20 feet fine, even more at a lower footage. I think it only took around 15 to wire to the back of mine, and i even have slack. if you do end up just absolutely having to have 1/0, i'd go with that site I gave you up there. they have really good stuff for the price. I've used many different types of power wire before and they are my favorite so far. they have cool battery terminals and stuff too.

really it comes down to if you're planning to expand later or not. if you plan to ever add a second cvr, get the 1/0, if not, just stick with the 4 and save yourself the money, unless you just feel like taking the hit and dropping it, lol, wouldn't hurt anything but your wallet. I've wired in dual 1/0 to my vehicles before and ended up running less than 2000rms total.

now that's overkill, lol.
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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right now i only have a little 10 gauge power wire. yeah i know. its maybe putting out 400 watts. still hits though. and yeah im going to upgrade. either 2 12s or 2 15s power acustik mofos. and idk what amp yet. so im thinking 4000 watts. plus a 4 channel. so i need to up grade to 0 gauge. thats why i figured i might as well now b4 i get my new amp and subs. ill just dial down my amp when i do. plus when i get rid of my system im going to give it to my gf... she did buy my sub and box. and i think i will keep my stock wiring. why both removing it. plus if i have to sell my truck then im taking everything i put in out. lights amp sub deck and wiring. ill keep the speakers in though.
 

Chrismdean09

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if your think 4000 watts you will want a h/o alternator and 4000 watts of kinetic or other manufacture batteries and 1/0 wiring forsure thats what i have 3000 watts to two 15s 2 khc2000 h/o alternator and my lights still dim even with a big three
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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damn still. well i dont believe in caps. waste of money. even a couple audio shops around here agree with me. so maybe i dont need 4000 watts. haha but i know the subs can handle that. so maybe 2000-3000. i have to keep my truck fairly light. desert sand dosent like heavy trucks.
 

Chrismdean09

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the lightest and best alternative is a alternator im not trying to break your bank but i had a 94 yota with a h/o alternator and stock everything else and big unning 1200 watts and extra lights and never had a problem
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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i was thinking a high out put alt. how many amps dose it put out? and how much do they run?
 
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panda24619

panda24619

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holy cow! okay. ill think about that. would it be cheaper do runn duals? i might be able to get another alt for fairly cheap.
 

Chrismdean09

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yeah he can probably make you a bracket to run 15 alternators well thats excessive but yeah he does have duels set up call him up and he will hook it up but dont buy the 1/0 from him it costs way more to buy it from him. two would work too i just have never ran them. but the yota i had a stock out put alternator that was fried within a week of running 1200 rms. and since i was plannin on using that car for comps i went ahead and got a h/o on even though i had no idea what size system i was putting in. but since i decided to take a nap and roll my yota down the highway for 300 yards and break my neck i couldnt really use the yota anymore. thats why i have my expedition now :)
 
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