Calidad
Full Access Members
Drive with two feet? I have family members who can trash any cars brakes in 2 months. I’m pretty sure they are touching the brake more than the go pedal
4th Gen Brakes Q&A
- Thread starter DWs-TTEB
- Start date
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rltrbill
Member
no sir- not a “two footed” driver....
FlyBry
Full Access Members
I cant honestly remember the last time I braked with my right foot. Been left foot braking since my karting & racing days. Just cant give an old habit up I guess, even with a manual trans, unless I need the clutch to shift.
i can’t even try to brake with my left foot whatsoever - all of my vehicles growing up were german sticks (with brutal tension clutches) so if i ever even kiss the brake pedal with my left foot, like on road trips in stop-n-go accident traffic when my right knee is on the steering wheel while trying to eat a cold burrito, it’s basically a nose to the steering wheel & the entire family awakened and mad as hell. (jk - sort of.)
haven’t consistently used a stick in 10yrs, but sometimes in the heat of a stopping moment i actually can’t help but reflex with the left foot to hit the “imaginary” clutch & catch the corner of the brake pedal. suffice to stay the vehicle stops much quicker than i intended, which basically puts the dog in the 2nd row & the coffee on the windshield. (jk again, sort of.)
edit to say i will say that when driving aggressively in said manual trans vehicles, on the backroads of bucks county, when downshifting hard to corner the quattro, i was an avid user of right foot brake using left ball of foot, while simultaneously bumping the gas a little bit with my pinky toe to kick up the rpms a little bit & ease into the downshift for the clutch / trans. that 20 yr old audi clutch / trans is all original to this day, never had surgery @ 240k miles so i guess it could take it lol.
sorry to get off topic it’s a snarky morning for me. i’ll go get my coffee now.
haven’t consistently used a stick in 10yrs, but sometimes in the heat of a stopping moment i actually can’t help but reflex with the left foot to hit the “imaginary” clutch & catch the corner of the brake pedal. suffice to stay the vehicle stops much quicker than i intended, which basically puts the dog in the 2nd row & the coffee on the windshield. (jk again, sort of.)
edit to say i will say that when driving aggressively in said manual trans vehicles, on the backroads of bucks county, when downshifting hard to corner the quattro, i was an avid user of right foot brake using left ball of foot, while simultaneously bumping the gas a little bit with my pinky toe to kick up the rpms a little bit & ease into the downshift for the clutch / trans. that 20 yr old audi clutch / trans is all original to this day, never had surgery @ 240k miles so i guess it could take it lol.
sorry to get off topic it’s a snarky morning for me. i’ll go get my coffee now.
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wakeboarder
Full Access Members
I just changed my rear brake pads at 26k. The inner pads still had a lot of material left. One outer pad had just a few mm left and the other outer pad had about twice the material.
Like somebody previously mentioned, the aftermarket pad material in contact with the rotor is about double that of the factory pads. This would partially explain the low miles for pad life.
Like somebody previously mentioned, the aftermarket pad material in contact with the rotor is about double that of the factory pads. This would partially explain the low miles for pad life.
Jigstick
Member
I’m doing front and rear rotors and pads on Friday on my 2017. Rear pads are toast at 47k. Fronts about 50% but got scoring on the inner rotor walls. I went with Advanced Auto Platinum rotors and ceramic pads.
Jigstick
Member
Finished my install yesterday. The rear caliper brackets don’t need removed to replace the rotors which was nice.
These ceramic pads don’t feel as grippy as the OEM pads. But I haven’t worn them in yet. Time will tell. Overall an easy install. Just remember to put the truck in Brake Maintenance Mode before you push in the rear caliper pistons.
These ceramic pads don’t feel as grippy as the OEM pads. But I haven’t worn them in yet. Time will tell. Overall an easy install. Just remember to put the truck in Brake Maintenance Mode before you push in the rear caliper pistons.
OP
OP
DWs-TTEB
Full Access Members
Ford F150 Electronic Parking Brake and Other Models - Park Brake Maintenance Mode Rear Brake prep
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lefty hack
Well-Known Member
Do I need to remove and replace the hub nut on the rears
OP
OP
DWs-TTEB
Full Access Members
No. Just wack the inside of the rotors a few times with a rubber mallet and they will come right off.
mightyexpy
Member
I recently installed the PowerStop Z36 Truck & Tow front brake rotor and pad kit.
Much better bite then the stock pads and gives off slightly less brake dust. Zero noise and stopping with a trailer is much better. Came with drilled and slotted rotors.
Much better bite then the stock pads and gives off slightly less brake dust. Zero noise and stopping with a trailer is much better. Came with drilled and slotted rotors.
FlyBry
Full Access Members
First thing I did after I got my Expy home
Attachments
Would love to see some stopping and life data for different brake set ups on Expys.
Recently learned that most auto parts store brakes, even their so called premium ones, are not nearly as good as factory brakes. This is especially true for the foot pressure needed to maintain the same stopping distance as OEM. While I have definitely improved braking on some vehicles by upgrading brakes, you will only do so with carefully selected premium replacements.
Recently learned that most auto parts store brakes, even their so called premium ones, are not nearly as good as factory brakes. This is especially true for the foot pressure needed to maintain the same stopping distance as OEM. While I have definitely improved braking on some vehicles by upgrading brakes, you will only do so with carefully selected premium replacements.
twanger
Active Member
Brake pad bite (“foot pressure needed”) has nothing to do with how “good” brake pads are. Merely a matter of your preference. I prefer pads with low bite myself, but to each his own. The important thing is to try to figure that out before buying!
And stopping distance isn’t a relevant criteria either— any available pad will stop you in the same distance. The main criteria are dust, life, high-temp performance, and wear on the rotor. Those are all trade-offs, while bite is a preference.
Joshua Cole
Active Member
For good pedal feel and increase stopping power use ceramic pads and blank rotors.
Not looking to pick a fight with twanger and like he said "to each his own", just sharing my experience. I have found increased foot pressure is a safety issue especially with less experienced drivers and some ladies who don't realize the amount of leg pressure needed to effectively make an emergency stop in the shorted possible distance. They often don't press hard enough for threshold braking let alone hard enough to engage the anti-locks especially on dry pavement. Having taught 4 teenagers to drive and having a petite wife, I have seen this on multiple occasions were they just didn't press down hard enough and suspect this is a consideration when OEMs select the types of pads they do. Because of these experiences and a couple of fender benders that they might have avoided, I am now much more selective of the pads and disks for replacements.
All that being said I don't like grabby brakes either and just try and find the best combination I can for any particular vehicle to at least meet or hopefully exceed OEM braking. Meaning I don't spend crazy huge money on replacement brakes but no longer think buying one or two grades above the cheapest pads or skipping turning/replacing the rotors is acceptable. Tires also contribute much to avoiding accidents. Worn or old tires and so-so brakes are just inviting trouble.
My bottom line is don't skimp or put off replacing brakes and tires, your family and your insurance rates will benefit.
All that being said I don't like grabby brakes either and just try and find the best combination I can for any particular vehicle to at least meet or hopefully exceed OEM braking. Meaning I don't spend crazy huge money on replacement brakes but no longer think buying one or two grades above the cheapest pads or skipping turning/replacing the rotors is acceptable. Tires also contribute much to avoiding accidents. Worn or old tires and so-so brakes are just inviting trouble.
My bottom line is don't skimp or put off replacing brakes and tires, your family and your insurance rates will benefit.
I've found that most of "foot pressure " has a bunch to do with the power assist provided by the booster and the vacuum it gets from the engine. Also the proportioning valve has a bit to say as well. Most OEM pads are crap imo. Although the ones of my current Expy are good.
FlyBry
Full Access Members
To each his own. I hate any brake pad with high initial Bite, they will always fade when hot.
Braking performance is one, easily adjustable area you can gain, or loose performance on almost all vehicles.
The Z23 Power Stop pads I use on the Expy have low initial bite = on a cold morning, warm your brakes, or you might surprise your sphincter.
Example: Exit the highway, apply a little brake pressure, and as the temperature increase, so does the stopping/braking power = you have to let some pressure off the brake pedal, or you will stop way short of your goal.
I do not care about dusting (which I have very little) pad life, or rotor life. I do care about stopping 6000 lbs. in the absolute shortest distance possible, with Zero fade.
Brake pads are manufactured with an optimum operating temperature range. Below, or exceed that range and they will perform poorly, or fade
Low Temp range = high initial bite. High Temp range = low initial bite.
You can mix N match to fit your driving/braking style.
And Yes, Brake Pads can absolutely reduce, or increase your stopping distance. All pads do not stop in the same distance.
On our race cars, we can adjust the braking power needed by changing pad compounds, to match the drivers braking style, the track &/or race distances. You know you have it right when the rotors are glowing bright red, and you still have complete braking performance.
Stock Ford Expedition brake pads are very good, they simply do not provide what I want.
FYI - my kids hate driving my vehicles because of the increased braking performance, and always say, please Dad, factory brake pads only on my car, please.
