A quick service, into disaster!

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502Expedition

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Well, this has been an adventure! 10 days ago I dropped off my 2018 at the dealership. Simple rear diff leak and transmission shift point reset. The service spiraled out of control from there. Unfortunately, I know that I will miss parts of this story or leave things out because I am emotionally drained, so apologies! My service adviser called to say that on the test drive they noticed a noise from the front end at low speed. Recommending a TSB to disconnect some vacuum lines and should not be a big deal. well on the next test drive they called to say the expedition had a coolant leak on the test drive and had to have the vehicle towed back to the shop. JL1Z-18472-B and JL1Z-18472-C are the part numbers. they refused to accept any responsability and said I needed to pay right at 600.00 for the repair. Ford extended warranty people said that I didn't have enough credit with ford for them to cover it so pack sand...... My question is what the hell happened and how is this okay? 20230517_160938.jpg


Also we have a new weird noise at low speeds and on the highway. sounds like a bike chain hitting a guard or loose heat shield. also have a groan at low speed turns. So she goes back to the dealership tomorrow!
here is a link to the new noise, a little tough to hear.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ZYUs4dJobC3CTfe8

Advice is appreciated!
 

seventieslord

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Is there some kind of tin cover that is slightly bent that your rotors are hitting when they spin? I had that happen on another vehicle.

And how on earth is replacing that little plastic splitter $600??
 

JamaicaJoe

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The prices of those 2 parts together should not be over $100 or so. Did you have a coolant leak when you went in? Sounds like somehow (In their care) those hoses were pushed up some rotating part like a pulley or tire or became pinched somehow. I would be looking to have them cover the cost of breaking your car during a test drive.
 

99WhiteC5Coupe

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Well, this has been an adventure! 10 days ago I dropped off my 2018 at the dealership. Simple rear diff leak and transmission shift point reset. The service spiraled out of control from there. Unfortunately, I know that I will miss parts of this story or leave things out because I am emotionally drained, so apologies! My service adviser called to say that on the test drive they noticed a noise from the front end at low speed. Recommending a TSB to disconnect some vacuum lines and should not be a big deal. well on the next test drive they called to say the expedition had a coolant leak on the test drive and had to have the vehicle towed back to the shop. JL1Z-18472-B and JL1Z-18472-C are the part numbers. they refused to accept any responsability and said I needed to pay right at 600.00 for the repair. Ford extended warranty people said that I didn't have enough credit with ford for them to cover it so pack sand...... My question is what the hell happened and how is this okay? View attachment 77710


Also we have a new weird noise at low speeds and on the highway. sounds like a bike chain hitting a guard or loose heat shield. also have a groan at low speed turns. So she goes back to the dealership tomorrow!
here is a link to the new noise, a little tough to hear.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7ZYUs4dJobC3CTfe8

Advice is appreciated!



That plastic coolant junction was struck by something, which caused the broken section. Think a socket wrench handle end.
 

Deadman

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That noise in the video sounds just like the common "IWE" failure. Its basically the 4x4 trying to engage when it shouldn't..... They'll replace the entire front hub, or just the vacuum line depending if they are clowns or good mechanics. Mine did the entire hub because there is metal shavings in it now.....
 

99WhiteC5Coupe

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So the TSB said to disconnect vacuum hoses and then drive it? what ?lol

I swear dealers hire a bunch of moron techs these days and the service advisors are no better


Crazy isn’t it?

Ford’s TSB instructs the dealer to disconnect the system that permits the drivetrain to operate in RWD (2-wheel) model.

This forces the system to always operate in AWD (or 4-wheel drive) mode.

This decreases fuel mileage and defeats the system for which the vehicle was designed and purchased.
 

Rob6805

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Crazy isn’t it?

Ford’s TSB instructs the dealer to disconnect the system that permits the drivetrain to operate in RWD (2-wheel) model.

This forces the system to always operate in AWD (or 4-wheel drive) mode.

This decreases fuel mileage and defeats the system for which the vehicle was designed and purchased.
Do you have the TSB #?
 

Rob6805

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Disconnecting and capping the IWE vacuum lines will keep the hubs locked and engaged constantly. It does not mean that the vehicle is always in 4wd/AWD all the time. The transfer case can still be in 2wd mode and thus not send pwr to the front axle. Keeping the hubs engaged all the time would, as you mentioned, possibly reduce fuel economy.

I am surprised this is Ford's "fix" for this. They must know that the system is inherently faulty or they would just replace the IWE itself.
 

mreed112

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I believe that the "fix" has been implemented in production.

As far as I can tell, my 2022 KR 4wd with HD trailer tow with 3.73 axles and ELSD has no IWE!

While fuel economy may be affected, I am happy with my 19mpg overall for 9k miles on reg fuel and 100% 2wd.
 

5280tunage

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I'm reading this a bit differently, to me this tsb describes nothing more than a diagnostic procedure. I don't believe it's saying to leave the vacuum line disconnected permanently. especially the section under "labor times". To me this is a test procedure, to get the components to manually make the noises regardless of conditions, to determine if there is a IWE issue, then if the noise appears, to then proceed with the IWE replacement procedure or vacuum fixes. Maybe I'm way off though.
 

Rob6805

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I'm reading this a bit differently, to me this tsb describes nothing more than a diagnostic procedure. I don't believe it's saying to leave the vacuum line disconnected permanently. especially the section under "labor times". To me this is a test procedure, to get the components to manually make the noises regardless of conditions, to determine if there is a IWE issue, then if the noise appears, to then proceed with the IWE replacement procedure or vacuum fixes. Maybe I'm way off though.

Yes!! 100%. The clue is the section that the vacuum line disconnecting and capping is titled " Preform the vacuum system check procedure"

Good catch.
 

pickles1107

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Yes!! 100%. The clue is the section that the vacuum line disconnecting and capping is titled " Preform the vacuum system check procedure"

Good catch.
I’m not sure about that.
For our vehicles which do have a 4A option, the TSB instructs to skip to step 4.
I had the IWE failure and my service paperwork states that they removed the vacuum lines and capped, referencing this TSB. I questioned it at the time as my paperwork said something to the effect of “customer should be aware that vehicle will operate in 4A all the time now”.
I understand that is not 100% accurate, just that the hubs are engaged 100% of the time due to the absence of the vac system.

Here is a link to my original thread.
 

18MaxLimited

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That plastic coolant junction was struck by something, which caused the broken section. Think a socket wrench handle end.
This. That plastic junction is no way the weakest point in the system to fail like that. A connection will likely fail or uncouple before that part would burst in that manner. VERY SUSPECT. Most warranties don't cover coolant hoses because right hoses dry out and leak over time but I'd argue this is NOT wear and tear and not a "hose."

That new bike chain rattling sound. Check this, just skip to 1:15
 

NSRacer

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Those hoses failed on my Wife's 18 about a month ago. BUT, they failed at the crimp from rubber to plastic - not at that joint. That definitely looks like it was struck by something. I paid less than $100 for both hoses and replaced them myself. Process sucked a bit since it's tight, but since it's a part that's not covered by the extended warranty, I had to bite the bullet. I'd probably try to at least get the cost of the part waived...
 

nonsense

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Similar heater hose broke on my wife's '11 and. I cut out the Y, replaced it with one from the parts store. The part and clamps cost under $10
 

3rd Expyowner123

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One of those hoses on our 2018 had a slow leak at a connector around 75k miles. Dealer replaced both, think the cost was about $450 if I recall properly.
Repair not covered my ESP.
 

Rob6805

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I’m not sure about that.
For our vehicles which do have a 4A option, the TSB instructs to skip to step 4.
I had the IWE failure and my service paperwork states that they removed the vacuum lines and capped, referencing this TSB. I questioned it at the time as my paperwork said something to the effect of “customer should be aware that vehicle will operate in 4A all the time now”.
I understand that is not 100% accurate, just that the hubs are engaged 100% of the time due to the absence of the vac system.

Here is a link to my original thread.
I read the TSB again and it does seem very vague and possibly interpreted different ways depending on the tech. I wouldn't worry too much about the vacuum lines being capped and the IWE's engaged all the time. The difference in fuel economy would be negligible.
 
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