Oil Change Impossible?

[JAMADOR]

Attempted to change the oil on the MiniBus today, I've done my own on all the cars I've owned, this one defeated me, for now.

Got the underbody panel removed, seems like a tiny amount of room to get to the oil pan drain plug [assuming i was on the right bolt, passenger side, at the rear of the pan?] between the crossmember & sway bar?

Must've been last changed by the Hulk, was worried about rounding it off, so I stopped. I don't have a 6pt wrench, and the 12pt wasn't grabbing right.

My floor jack [1.5t Pittsburgh Low-pro that was for my Lotus 7 replica] also might not be up to the task of lifting the truck either, need to look into an upgrade or QuickJack

Any tips on making this easier? Planning on adding a Fumoto, and maybe run a drain hose to bypass needing to pull the underbody, but getting the drain plug out has me flummoxed.

 

[TheDoug]

Shoot a pic of the area you are working on...

Oil plug should be facing passenger side and near the front sway bar.

 

[JAMADOR]

Yep, that's what I was trying to remove. Was about to round it off, so I stopped. Will tackle it another day.
Going to order a Fumoto, hopefully have it before I attempt again.

 

[TheDoug]

Yep, that's what I was trying to remove. Was about to round it off, so I stopped. Will tackle it another day.
Going to order a Fumoto, hopefully have it before I attempt again.

Good luck sir

 

[NyackRob79]

It's a yellow plastic fastener. Only requires about half a turn to completely loosen. I replace mine with every oil change. Relatively easy job, just be careful as the oil will shoot out with quite a bit of pressure when you remove it. I alleviate that by opening the oil filler dipstick on the engine itself.

 

[sjwhiteley]

Use a 6-point. Always. Not sure why 12-point sockets are as common as they are. Should be used for special situations.

 

[JAMADOR]

Our Exped definitely doesn't have the plastic drain plug, unless it's really well hidden.
15mm drain bolt, passenger side, rear of the oil pan, just ahead of the transmission.

 

[GixxerJasen]

At some point the plastic plugs were swapped back to standard plugs in production.

 

[rd618]

Attempted to change the oil on the MiniBus today, I've done my own on all the cars I've owned, this one defeated me, for now.

Got the underbody panel removed, seems like a tiny amount of room to get to the oil pan drain plug [assuming i was on the right bolt, passenger side, at the rear of the pan?] between the crossmember & sway bar?

Must've been last changed by the Hulk, was worried about rounding it off, so I stopped. I don't have a 6pt wrench, and the 12pt wasn't grabbing right.

My floor jack [1.5t Pittsburgh Low-pro that was for my Lotus 7 replica] also might not be up to the task of lifting the truck either, need to look into an upgrade or QuickJack

Any tips on making this easier? Planning on adding a Fumoto, and maybe run a drain hose to bypass needing to pull the underbody, but getting the drain plug out has me flummoxed.

my 2 cents:
ramps are easier than a jack, but remember jack stands too.
I use a hex variable speed impact driver (low speed) to get the covers off. you're already saving time by using the tool, so don't rush bolts off or on, that will cause problems.
Short/standard 6 pt sockets will give you more leverage (3/8" wrench).
Get a long funnel, pouring oil into the engine bay is a pain, it's 1.5" opening in the middle of an already tall vehicle.
For me the filter oil drains out the back of the drip catch, first time I didn't realize that so i set the basin up too far forward.
Microfiber towels are great at absorbing oil or cleaning up after you're done.

 

[JAMADOR]

Yeah, I'd figured almost all of that by the time I was done, it was just the dang drain plug that stopped me in my tracks.
Reattaching the undertray is a bit of a pain, it's a bit too flexible & makes getting the bolts started a pain.
Going to pick up a 6pt wrench, (is it 3/8 or 15mm?) and get a Fumoto ordered.

 

[TheDoug]

I use 15mm

 

[Fastcar]

Attempted to change the oil on the MiniBus today, I've done my own on all the cars I've owned, this one defeated me, for now.

Got the underbody panel removed, seems like a tiny amount of room to get to the oil pan drain plug [assuming i was on the right bolt, passenger side, at the rear of the pan?] between the crossmember & sway bar?

Must've been last changed by the Hulk, was worried about rounding it off, so I stopped. I don't have a 6pt wrench, and the 12pt wasn't grabbing right.

My floor jack [1.5t Pittsburgh Low-pro that was for my Lotus 7 replica] also might not be up to the task of lifting the truck either, need to look into an upgrade or QuickJack

Any tips on making this easier? Planning on adding a Fumoto, and maybe run a drain hose to bypass needing to pull the underbody, but getting the drain plug out has me flummoxed.

Seems like this is your first oil change on this. I'd take it back to the dealer you bought it from or whoever did the last oil change. You don't want to own the mess if things round off or the threads strip.

 

[rd618]

Yeah, I'd figured almost all of that by the time I was done, it was just the dang drain plug that stopped me in my tracks.
Reattaching the undertray is a bit of a pain, it's a bit too flexible & makes getting the bolts started a pain.
Going to pick up a 6pt wrench, (is it 3/8 or 15mm?) and get a Fumoto ordered.

the socket is a 15mm, the ratchet type is 3/8" drive.

 

[JAMADOR]

10-4 thanks all.
Tempted to take it to the dealer. They changed the oil when they did the cam phasers, but don't want to end up with another roided Hulk tight drain plug.
Probably just get the Fumoto & a 6pt wrench & get it done. I already have the oil/filter.

 

[GixxerJasen]

If they did that to your drain plug, just wait till you try to remove your filter. I was literally hanging in the air hanging onto my filter wrench because the dealer put mine on so tight.

Speaking of funnels, I bought one of these, required a little modification with a file to make it work, but it's really nice to use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY839T8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[ROBERT BONNER]

Pro tip... I rotate the tires at my oil changes. To do all at once, I use (4) air jacks positioned at the (4) jack points designated by arrows on the frame. Set (4) jack stands adjacent to the air jacks on the frame. I remove the felt cover, I have an FX4, so I remove the front two steel skid plates, makes for a much easier and cleaner oil filter replacement. This minimizes the sway bar oil splash and keeps filter oil from dribbling on the top side of the skid plates...plus I take the opportunity to rinse the mud off of the skid plates... sounds like a pain; but, once you get used to it with a power drivers, it only takes an extra few minutes.

Drain plug torque is 20 ft-lb. "Mechanics" that use impact wrenches on drain plugs deserve far worse punishment than our current system of justice allows... Just saying.

 

[JAMADOR]

Fumoto ordered, should be here tomorrow.
Will try my 6pt socket instead of the 12pt box-end wrench.
Going to need to get a heavier duty jack, or drive her truck to work where we have one, to rotate the tires. I, too, rotate every oil change.

 

[wakeboarder]

I used this tool from Lowe’s on my last oil change. It reduced my desire for the Fumoto valve. It allows you to finish unscrewing the plug without getting oil on your hands.

 

[rd618]

It allows you to finish unscrewing the plug without getting oil on your hands.

fun fact a mechanic friend taught me, loosen it with the socket, then use your fingers to press it into the pan as you unscrew, then slide the bolt horizontally. works for these and other trucks, not for my wife's car where the bolt is inset.

 

[JAMADOR]

That's all well & good. My main issue is the impossibility of removing the drain plug.
Got the Fumoto yesterday, hopefully have time to get to it before the weekend's up.