grinding noise and rough ride only when in 4A

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volkerforster

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Hey guys, I have a grinding noise from the drivetrain together with a juddery ride when I switch in 4A (2020 Platinum). It started just before the last winter. Therefore, never used 4A all winter. Since the problem is present in 4A but it's all smooth in 2A, I don't think it is related to the common IWE problem. The noise doesn't seem to come from the wheel hubs, it's more underneath.

Any ideas? Does that sound like transfer case or something? Should that be under drivetrain warranty? (63000km)

I could just go to Ford, but our dealership (Rose City Ford, Windsor/Ontario) always charges 150-200 bucks only to have a look. 2 years ago they charged me 160 CAD only to tell me that my 3rd brake light needs to be replaced.
 

Going_Going_Gone

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LokiWolf

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Saw that sticky… now what if you’ve got a 2021 with the electronic system?
2021 don't have the Electronic system that I am aware of. 2022 should have been that change, at least that is my impression.
 

mhExped

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I have a 2018 Limited, so perhaps a different beast. However, when I had something that sounds like what you are describing, it turned out to be a trashed front diff.
 
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volkerforster

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Read this
I read this 100+ times. Here and from many other sources. It describes a problem when 4WD is not properly disengaged, which causes a grinding noise when switched into 2WD. My problem, as I thought I would have explained quite clearly, is the exact opposite.

Even if I appreciate that you try to help, reading my post before answering would be even better. Disappointing that the Super Moderator even gives that a like. Please guys, don't be so superficial. That doesn't help someone looking for support.
 
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volkerforster

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I have a 2018 Limited, so perhaps a different beast. However, when I had something that sounds like what you are describing, it turned out to be a trashed front diff.
That's unfortunately what I am almost expecting... Ford will find out tomorrow.
 

Yupster Dog

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I read this 100+ times. Here and from many other sources. It describes a problem when 4WD is not properly disengaged, which causes a grinding noise when switched into 2WD. My problem, as I thought I would have explained quite clearly, is the exact opposite.

Even if I appreciate that you try to help, reading my post before answering would be even better. Disappointing that the Super Moderator even gives that a like. Please guys, don't be so superficial. That doesn't help someone looking for support.
You just got here, How is anyone in this forum suppose to know you? That you know what you are talking about?
We treat all newbies as if they have bare minimum knowledge. We don't know you and you don't know this forum.
Don't be that guy who gets mad when someone tells them to read the owner manual because the answer is in there.
I don't think it is related to the common IWE problem.
Doesn't sound like you are sure either.

Even if I appreciate that you think everyone needs to hang your every word,
you said nothing before about reading the sticky100+ times until post #7 where you were berating @Going_Going_Gone for something you never said. (by the way report refused as he was dead on topic)
Step back take a breath and get to know the forum before trying to run it.


Take some of your own advice and don't be superficial.
No one was trying to make anyone look bad or berate but you.

Lets start again, this might help
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/correct-way-to-start-a-thread.47954/

Welcome to the forum.
 
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volkerforster

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LOL. You assume "by default" that a newbie to the forum did not do any research before and first thing asks a question that has been answered already. And yes, I am the guy who gets mad, because I did my research. If you believe I am an idiot, I leave it up to you. But as you said so wisely: you don't know me. Then, please, don't judge me unjustifiably.

As I found out in the meantime, the grinding noise is caused by the differential due to tires with unequal circumference (regardless of having the same dimensions printed on them). I only replaced the tires on the rear axle because the front tires were still at 80%, but I put a different brand on the rear axle than the ones on the front axle. This didn't only triggered the "limited torque" message on the dashboard, as reported by others here in the forum who had recently their tires replaced, but it also caused a rough and noisy ride, which I can't see reported here in the forum by anyone else before, and which has less than nothing to do with the IWEs.

The reason for me to believe that having different brands on different axles is okay, is that I read it here in the forum that other people did this without issues. But based on my experience, which I gladly add to the forum content, one should have all 4 tires of the exact same model to avoid issues with the differential and related dashboard warnings.
 

Yupster Dog

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If you believe I am an idiot, I leave it up to you.
Not at all,
Just saying if you don't post what you have already done or already know, Someone is going to say it.

When they do, a simple already read/knew that and move on will do.

There is a lot of good info on this forum, glad you are here adding to it.
 

Speed 330

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You just got here, How is anyone in this forum suppose to know you? That you know what you are talking about?
We treat all newbies as if they have bare minimum knowledge. We don't know you and you don't know this forum.
Don't be that guy who gets mad when someone tells them to read the owner manual because the answer is in there.

Doesn't sound like you are sure either.

Even if I appreciate that you think everyone needs to hang your every word,
you said nothing before about reading the sticky100+ times until post #7 where you were berating @Going_Going_Gone for something you never said. (by the way report refused as he was dead on topic)
Step back take a breath and get to know the forum before trying to run it.


Take some of your own advice and don't be superficial.
No one was trying to make anyone look bad or berate but you.

Lets start again, this might help
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/correct-way-to-start-a-thread.47954/

Welcome to the forum.
Half the time half of you guys really don't know what you're talking about certified ASC master trust me when I tell you half of you don't know what you're talking about that's exactly what I mean
 

Rob6805

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LOL. You assume "by default" that a newbie to the forum did not do any research before and first thing asks a question that has been answered already. And yes, I am the guy who gets mad, because I did my research. If you believe I am an idiot, I leave it up to you. But as you said so wisely: you don't know me. Then, please, don't judge me unjustifiably.

As I found out in the meantime, the grinding noise is caused by the differential due to tires with unequal circumference (regardless of having the same dimensions printed on them). I only replaced the tires on the rear axle because the front tires were still at 80%, but I put a different brand on the rear axle than the ones on the front axle. This didn't only triggered the "limited torque" message on the dashboard, as reported by others here in the forum who had recently their tires replaced, but it also caused a rough and noisy ride, which I can't see reported here in the forum by anyone else before, and which has less than nothing to do with the IWEs.

The reason for me to believe that having different brands on different axles is okay, is that I read it here in the forum that other people did this without issues. But based on my experience, which I gladly add to the forum content, one should have all 4 tires of the exact same model to avoid issues with the differential and related dashboard warnings.
Always replace all four tires and never mix brands. That's a move folks do when they drive a junker.
 

Fastcar

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Hey guys, I have a grinding noise from the drivetrain together with a juddery ride when I switch in 4A (2020 Platinum). It started just before the last winter. Therefore, never used 4A all winter. Since the problem is present in 4A but it's all smooth in 2A, I don't think it is related to the common IWE problem. The noise doesn't seem to come from the wheel hubs, it's more underneath.

Any ideas? Does that sound like transfer case or something? Should that be under drivetrain warranty? (63000km)

I could just go to Ford, but our dealership (Rose City Ford, Windsor/Ontario) always charges 150-200 bucks only to have a look. 2 years ago they charged me 160 CAD only to tell me that my 3rd brake light needs to be replaced.
Seems like it is not fully engaging. Your dealer charges you to look at a warranty issue?
 

Fastcar

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Always replace all four tires and never mix brands. That's a move folks do when they drive a junker.
Not to be argumentative but.... I was always of the belief that a tire as long as it was of the same circumference regardless of brand had no effect on the differential.
 
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volkerforster

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Not to be argumentative but.... I was always of the belief that a tire as long as it was of the same circumference regardless of brand had no effect on the differential.
And there is the catch. Having tires of the nominal same size doesn't mean the circumference is identical. The difference between the Pirelli's I put on the rear and the Hankooks I had on the front axle is obviously enough to put unusual strain on the drivetrain. Now I am going to throw out the Hankooks (still 70%) to hopefully get rid of the issue.
 

sjwhiteley

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And there is the catch. Having tires of the nominal same size doesn't mean the circumference is identical. The difference between the Pirelli's I put on the rear and the Hankooks I had on the front axle is obviously enough to put unusual strain on the drivetrain. Now I am going to throw out the Hankooks (still 70%) to hopefully get rid of the issue.
Indeed. Manufacturers often indicate the actual diameter of their tires along with the spec.
 

Yupster Dog

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Half the time half of you guys really don't know what you're talking about certified ASC master trust me when I tell you half of you don't know what you're talking about that's exactly what I mean
Thank you for sharing your expertise, and that is exactly what I mean.

But even with all that expertise, it still didn't help the OP with his problem either.
 

Fastcar

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And there is the catch. Having tires of the nominal same size doesn't mean the circumference is identical. The difference between the Pirelli's I put on the rear and the Hankooks I had on the front axle is obviously enough to put unusual strain on the drivetrain. Now I am going to throw out the Hankooks (still 70%) to hopefully get rid of the issue.
Again, I said as I said the same circumference not brand. Put a tape on the damn things so you know what you have. It is an open differential I believe not a posi or locker. If you were to park your truck in the sun for a few hours the tires exposed to the sun will "grow" in height but not enough to effect the dif.
 
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