Does anyone know how to properly remove the drivers side quarter panel to access the factory sub? I want to add this so I can install my mono base amp.
https://www.kicker.com/keyloc-smart-line-out-converter
If it's anything like my 2019, it's a bit of a pain and pretty easy to break something. I've had to remove mine several times to do some amp/sub work.
Essentially, you have to remove the D-Pillar trim (and if you have a speaker there be very careful, really easy to pull the wires right off the speaker).
then remove the bottom sill plate, and again, be careful. there's a sensor wire attached to it, disconnect that carefully.
then you'll have to pull everything out of the storage trays in the floor of the trunk, and remove two nuts holding it in. Pull back and up.
Remove the luggage tie downs if you have them from the QP Trim. Be careful with the plastic caps, they break off easy, you just pry the cover up and use a small nut driver.
Pull the C pillar trim off as well.
Should be a couple screws under the D and C pillar trim pieces.
Pull the back passenger door gasket up and remove the sill plate (just use a trim pry tool).
On mine i had to remove the door gasket from the liftgate a little, you may not since it's a different design.
Start prying the trim panel off, lost of panel clips. Be careful though, mine had several switches that needed to be disconnected as you pull so they don't break off.
I will tell you, the wire color codes were not right compared to diagrams I found on the webs. and it actually caused me some issues. The most reliable method of getting a high level signal as to use the wires from the sub enclosure. But be warned, mine was a dual voice coil sub, so you need to make sure you get the right +/- pair out of the four wires. no idea what those would be in yours, you could pull the sub out of the box and check that way. I also originally used a prefabricated connector pair coming off the Amp and that didn't work. Again, it seems there's some variation in the wire layouts. The molex connectors fit together just fine, but the pinouts weren't right, waste of $40.
One thing I find really annoying is that with anything that uses signal detection to turn on the HLC, has an issue with Auto Start/Stop. When the vehicle goes to start, it seems as though the BMC turns off the sub output, and the HLC shuts off. One of the brands I used actually had a delay that could be applied to prevent that behavior but it didn't work well for other things.
I used the Audio Control L2Ci Pro and love it. It has the variable impedance selector to simulate load. When these systems power up, they essentially do a quick speaker test, to search for resistance. if it's not there, it marks that circuit/speaker dead and logs errors, you can actually initiate the test from forscan. I have mine set to 20Ohms. no issues since. The first one that had the timer circuit didn't have variable impedance and I got lots of errors. And i wasn't going get out some old resistors to try and fool it.
