Just did a front brake pad and rotor replacement...sort of a pain.

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duneslider

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I have about 78k miles on the 2020 max and after a visiual inspection I decided it was time to replace the pads. As I was looking at pads I decided maybe getting pads and rotors is a good idea. We tow a lot and I figured going with something a little "heavier duty" would be a good idea and it wasn't that costly to do. I went with powerstop rotors and powerstop carbon ceramic pads, it was about $300 for everything.

I have done a lot of brakes and figured this would be no big deal. Started on the passenger side and the rotor was stuck. This isn't something I have much experience with in my area, rotors usually aren't too stuck, maybe a tap with the dead blow and they pop off. I beat on the rotor pretty good and it didn't budge. I put some PB blaster on it and beat some more, nothing. I got the torch out and heated up the areas I thought would have rust holding it on and then beat it some more, nothing. I heated it again, more thoroughly this time and beat it again and it pop off. I am sure this is common for some parts of the country but I was pretty surprised as I have never had this much trouble in the past.

I wire brushed all the rusty areas and cleaned them up really good and put a thin coat of antisieze on the contact points but the powerstop rotors do have two threaded holes for bolts to help remove stuck rotors.

Driver side went faster, I knew where the sticking points were from the passanger side so I was able to heat the sticking points more direct and impact it in the right locations so it went much quicker but was still equally stuck.

Everything else on the job was easy peeze and no big deal. If I wasn't doing rotors, or if the rotors weren't stuck, it would have been a very quick job.

I took it out and did the bedding procedure and now the brakes grab great, are very quiet, and look fancy. I would say for anyone doing this, make sure you are prepared for stuck rotors.
 

Fastcar

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I have about 78k miles on the 2020 max and after a visiual inspection I decided it was time to replace the pads. As I was looking at pads I decided maybe getting pads and rotors is a good idea. We tow a lot and I figured going with something a little "heavier duty" would be a good idea and it wasn't that costly to do. I went with powerstop rotors and powerstop carbon ceramic pads, it was about $300 for everything.

I have done a lot of brakes and figured this would be no big deal. Started on the passenger side and the rotor was stuck. This isn't something I have much experience with in my area, rotors usually aren't too stuck, maybe a tap with the dead blow and they pop off. I beat on the rotor pretty good and it didn't budge. I put some PB blaster on it and beat some more, nothing. I got the torch out and heated up the areas I thought would have rust holding it on and then beat it some more, nothing. I heated it again, more thoroughly this time and beat it again and it pop off. I am sure this is common for some parts of the country but I was pretty surprised as I have never had this much trouble in the past.

I wire brushed all the rusty areas and cleaned them up really good and put a thin coat of antisieze on the contact points but the powerstop rotors do have two threaded holes for bolts to help remove stuck rotors.

Driver side went faster, I knew where the sticking points were from the passanger side so I was able to heat the sticking points more direct and impact it in the right locations so it went much quicker but was still equally stuck.

Everything else on the job was easy peeze and no big deal. If I wasn't doing rotors, or if the rotors weren't stuck, it would have been a very quick job.

I took it out and did the bedding procedure and now the brakes grab great, are very quiet, and look fancy. I would say for anyone doing this, make sure you are prepared for stuck rotors.
You managed to get 78K out of a set of rotors and pads?
 
OP
OP
D

duneslider

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You managed to get 78K out of a set of rotors and pads?
Yes, and honestly I probably could have gone a hair longer. The pads were worn down just to where the gap in the middle was, which I kind of feel like is the most I like to go.

Mind you, the back pads were done long ago.
 

tdisalvo

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I did my rotors and pads about two years ago. 75k ish miles on a '19. Front rotors were rusted on, and I beat the hell out of them to get them loose, including repeated applications of PB blaster (should have used Kroil + ATF) & smashing them top / bottom / left right with a 2-lb sledge until they finally popped off. Took more work than it should have. Did the same with antisieze compound to prevent things from freezing together in the future. Then someone T-boned me and now the car is gone, haha.
 

ROBERT BONNER

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After the same struggles with my neighbor's 2019 (in NC), I preemptively removed the moderately stuck rotors on my 2020 at 25K and anti-seized them. Note that I performed the same preemptive work on my 2022 F150; which was probably unnecessary as they weren't the least bit stuck. Something unique about the metallurgy and surface finishes on the Expedition causing this.
 

texsn95

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The pistons just squish in with a clamp and a block of wood, correct?
 

TheAngryOgre

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In the spring, replaced rear pads and rotors at 65K, Two weeks ago, just turned the front rotors (pulsing when applying brakes at speed) as the pads have good life left at 78K. Will inspect again at 90K and replace both.
 

BigOleFordFan

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You managed to get 78K out of a set of rotors and pads ?
Well, I'm at ~50k on my front ones, and when I had it in for a state inspection 2 weeks ago, they said the pads & rotors were at ~85-90% remaining life, so I think they will still be good in another 20-30k, but I always have them checked at every rotation/balance/oil chg (every 6-8k)....

Note that most of that 50k has been just in last 2 years, mostly highway driving for work though :D
 

Contender54

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What brands of pads and rotors are you guys installing as replacements?

Usually, I'm hesitant to put "off-brands' on a daily driver, so I just stick with Motorcraft, but I wouldn't mind
hearing other people's experiences.
 

jar0023

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The pistons just squish in with a clamp and a block of wood, correct?
Front yes. Rear no. For the rear you have to put the electric parking break into service mode.

As far as AM and heavy duty I’ve been really pleased with the Power Stop Z36 set up. Pads and rotors. Silent. Low dust. Stop significantly better when they heat up.

Rear on my 18 FX4 were toast by 25k miles. Dealer replaced pads and turned rotors. Rotors could be felt pulsing within 10k. Around 40k I replaced all four corners with the Z36 rotors and pads. Changed the pads around 140k. Rotors still look great at 162k.

Check Amazon. Power Stop puts out some deep discounts around BF.
 

mx10166

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I just did my brakes and rotors at 65K and I chose the NAPA Adaptive One SUV ceramic brake pads....they were like $82 a pair. I cannot express enough how superior these are to the original brakes pads. It brakes like a sports car now and no dust, my wife even noticed how much better they were. I highly recommend these.
 

3rd Expyowner123

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Took my 2018 Expedition to Quicklane for oil change and they said front brakes and rotors should be replaced. Checked my service records, first time to do the fronts @ 107k miles. Wow!
 

SyndicateZ

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Took my 2018 Expedition to Quicklane for oil change and they said front brakes and rotors should be replaced. Checked my service records, first time to do the fronts @ 107k miles. Wow!
The vehicle must be driven on the highway alot mainly or open roads with not much "city" traffic id assume for brakes to last that long
 

Michael D Morris

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The pistons just squish in with a clamp and a block of wood, correct?
Not on the rear. The rear has an electronic parking brake. You have to put the rear calipers in maintenance mode using the programming button on the steering wheel. It was actually pretty easy. Just google the instructions when youre redy to do it.
 

Fastcar

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It's got to be a different driving style to get beyond 50K on brakes imo.
 
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