If you are talking about the windows in the rear doors, then yes they should go down. If you are talking about the windows where my slednecks stickers are (see below) then what 6K said, they only open a little and if it was installed as an option on the truck. Mine do not open at all.
http://www.expeditionforum.com/f42/what-look-when-buying-gen-1-expy-10741/ <-- CLICK ME
That would be worth taking a half hour and reading through. My truck has 235k on the original motor and trans. At that mileage, expect front suspension such as ball joints and tie rod ends to need to be...
If there were holes, then I would strongly look into bondo-ing the area before painting it. Look up some youtube videos if you are not familiar with the process but it will help to protect the holes from getting bigger and allowing rain to enter the cabin. After that I would just spray paint...
I think the GEM tracks the ABS sensors, so it is possible. Not sure why a higher rated fuse would make a difference but as long as the light went off who cares. Glad it went away, let us know if it comes back.
Oh yeah sorry I didn't see you are to the East. Its still light in MN haha. So by the fact you filled it with cream, do I assume it was rusted through? What do you mean by cream
Well like I said, it really depends on how bad it is. If it is just surface rust, sand it off and primer/spray paint it, that would suffice and no one would see it since it is on the roof. If it rusted to the point that it has holes it could get really intensive. If you can take a picture of...
Can you post a picture of the rust? If it is just a little bit, you can sand it off and bondo it or bedliner it. If it is bad enough that you have holes going through it then it could be a tougher repair. I have minor scratches that are rusting really slowly, but no salt gets that high which...
You could check out rancho. Their shocks are a bit squishy on road but they run pretty good off road. I like them in my truck. Why are you trying to replace just the coils? Normally if you buy the strut assembly it all comes together for you.
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I'm really surprised they wouldn't make it anymore being the vehicle is only 9 years old. Try calling another ford dealership just to confirm you didn't have a dud mechanic.
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They have to have 5x135 bolt patterns. Not sure what other types of vehicles run that pattern but at least it gives you the dimensions.
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Changing amp ratings means they may not blow out properly should there be a surge. This could lead to damage of the components.
Have you checked the speed sensors in the front wheel hubs physically? If the fuses are good, then you will need to test for power coming out of the sensor plugs on...
I doubt it. Lots of people crank their t-bars and I have never seen them mention replacing the sway bar links due to this. You might increase the chance of them breaking due to increased stress though. Any grade 8 bolt that is long enough will do the job just fine so replacing them isn't too...
Just based on his description it sounds like he had wires pinching in the steering column. Does yours do the same thing by only working when moving the steering column?
Also Have you checked fuses? I feel like the left and right turn signals were on separate fuses but I could have that wrong...
I like the way this guy thinks!! My idea was using a wrench but it equates to the same thing. All about evenly distributing the force.
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Is the gear shifter really loose? There are two torx screws under the dash that like to back themselves out over time causing this kind of issue. This video is where I would start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFa5maYbW8I
If no luck then I would check the linkages on the transmission.
My fraud background waves all sorts of red flags when I see stuff like that. Just because they list it as Dorman's part with a picture commonly found on the Internet, doesn't mean it isn't just a pipe painted black that they fabricated in their garage. You won't know until it shows up at your...
Are you removing the cats? From the 10 minutes of research I did, it looks like those flanges usually come as part of an aftermarket cat. I would call flowmaster, magnaflow, or a local exhaust shop (make sure all they do is exhaust) and see if they sell just the piece you are looking for. I...
I don't have experience with the ones from 1a auto, but the economy ones from o'reilly lasted about a year for me. I go cheap on lots of parts, but wheel hubs and suspension parts I usually do a higher quality option.
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I remember that too. It was bright white if I remember right. Kind of a customer pre-runner look. Can't remember his name either though. If I run across it I will post a link to his page.
Honestly just based on what you have told me you can throw parts at it all day and it is not going to go away until we find where the water is coming from and where the break in the connection is. Keep in mind, they could be two totally unrelated issues. I would test the voltages of the...
Have you tested voltage at the starter when it would not start to see if it was getting power? If not I would do that. If you get 0v when the key is engaged that tells me something along the way has lost connection. If you get 12v but the starter is not engaging, then I would say the starter...
Did you buy the car used? If the cables were taped then there might be other connection issues somewhere. I would follow the ground and power cables for redneck fixes and address them properly as well. If there is a taped wire that is breaking its connection, it could explain why the starter...
Haha no problem, good luck with the fix. I think the VSS is fairly cheap and easy to replace so let us know how it goes.
Also I typed in the wrong word earlier, it is called a vehicle speed sensor, not variable. I was thinking about variable valve timing this morning and had it on the brain haha.
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