It is exactly the same for the 5.4L. So everything I did you can copy over to the 5.4L. The only real hiccup were the trans line fittings. I'm still at a loss as to why they were different. Also why I couldn't find a adapter from one line nut size to the other. The line size from 1997-2003 is...
That's something I have already battled with. I had to back the coolant temp sensor out with the truck running and my friend in the drivers seat, waiting to shut the truck off if it sprayed. It bled some of the air out. But the dash sensor still doesn't work. The switch for the fans does. So to...
Have the catalytic converters been replaced? Just from the description it sounds like a chunk of the material has broken inside the cat. That's the rattling noise you're hearing.
I'm a little late to the party, but I think it looks pretty good. I dont think there was enough done on the doors. But I dont know what else you could wrap!
Here are some more pictures of the install. This one is the switch I used for my fan override and my 6" lights. I paid $5 for 5 of these off Ebay.
This was me sliding the radiator fan assembly in place.
I'll have to retake this picture with some better light to show the clearance I gain from...
Check the two hoses on the drivers side of the throttle body. Mine had disintegrated on the back side. Then check around the EGR tubing for leaks. There are write ups on how to check for vacuum leaks in the Tech section.
I finished the project tonight. I still have a few loose ends.
I tried hooking into the high pressure switch for turning on the high speed fan when the A/C is turned on. But since the controller is activated by ground, every time the connection to that switch was plugged in the fans came on. So...
It'll probably feel a little softer. But unless you're running heavy tires, it may not make that much difference. The good thing is you'll have measurements and can re-set it to what it was if you don't like it.
Torsion bars will help you do that. Make sure to take measurements before you start. This will ensure you make both sides even and you can track the amount you needed to lower it.
Nice work on the shroud! Looks good!
So last night I was very hopeful to finish my install. But I ran into a few problems.
The first problem is the trans. lines. If you have a 1997 and you order the radiator in the link I posted. You will need an adapter to up-size the trans lines. On 1998...
Its pulled through the radiator from the outside air into the engine bay. There are fans on certain cars that are secondary fans that push the air through the radiator. The "pusher" fans are less efficient than "puller" fans. So you have the right idea!
I am not a fan of mechanical fans at all. I dont like the drag they put on the motor. Plus I feel electric fans can do a better job of cooling the radiator. Plus I am going to wire in an override. That way I can run the fans with the engine off. I have done this mod on two other vehicles and...
I'm running 3:55's towing a 3800-4000lb. camper in the mountains and my 4.6L does pretty good. I keep up with traffic and its stable at 65-70 mph. I'm also getting 10 mpg this way.
I personally think the PI swap is a good idea. Also adding a programmer is a good idea as well. Both of those...
Then I painted everything black so it doesn't stick out.
I started disconnecting the radiator in the truck. I've unhooked everything but the lower hose. That will come tomorrow night...
I used the threaded clips they provided for the top holes on the bottom tabs to hold the metal brackets in place. I reused the threaded clips from my original radiator on the top holes. I also made the bracket longer and wrapped it under the bottom of the tab. I had to break the threaded clip...
I was able to get some work done tonight. This will outline mounting the fans to the radiator. It is almost a perfect fit. There are some mild modifications to be made to the fans, but everything is very simple.
To start off the drivers side upper mounting slot needs to be a little longer...
I can not fathom why they would need extra sensors in the fuel tank. I'm a mechanical engineer and my only guess as to why could be to do with the Automatic Braking system they started putting on SUV's. So that in the event you take a corner too fast it applies the brakes to keep you from...
So far here is my break down of cost.
1. Volvo controller - $25.95 shipped
2. Radiator - $115 shipped
3. Fans (local junk yard) - $33.16 after taxes
4. Be cool switch - $30.67 shipped
5. Misc. wires and connectors - $25
So my total is $229.78. But without having to up size my radiator I'm at...
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