Hmmm. My 04 and 16 you can turn on the fog lamps while the parking lamps are on via the normal switch..... coming on with only the headlights defeats the purpose of fog lamps.
I flipped the tires over on all my vehicles that have them with the inflation valve down and to the rear for easy pressure checking. As for rusting...WD40 and Fluid Film.
Don't change the viscosity on a VVT engine. Too many hydraulic components run on the engine oil and will cause problems at a cold startup. Best is to keep the oil clean. As another posted, check the PCV valve issue.
I don't even know what to say. You went for the most least likely component, hard to get at too, that would fail in the truck. If you want to play techie, then set up a laptop with Forscan & cables and play with the truck. As others have said start with checking the brake circuit.
The fuse link protects the alternator. Your other loads should be connected directly to battery + and fused there. The negative leads to the vehicle frame never to the neg battery post.
I run the Fumoto valve on my '16...best way to drain the oil and no mess. If that valve ever gets hit by a rock, you have bigger problems. Folks that think this can happen just don't know the location of the drain plug in relation to everything else under the vehicle. And besides the whole area...
The only way to stop the corrosion and to fix the paint problem, is to strip the paint off, sandblast and use an aluminum etching primer found in a marine supply store. Then paint it. A good body shop should know this. My aluminum hull boat was done in 2004 and spends most of it's life in...
I'm not going by any 3K scam perpetuated by anyone. I used to change engine oil and filter at 2,000 miles, I bumped it up about 20 years ago to 3000 after tearing down one engine. Say what you want but VCT engines and turbos need clean oil of the proper type and viscosity. One spec of crap and...
Regardless of what high mileage claims are made. I will always change at a maximum 3000 miles or 100 engine hours. Even the owns manual says to stick with their recommend change intervals when using extended oil drain interval oils. To each their own I rather change oil than internal engine...
Nothing beats OEM for reliability and performance. OEM not "bright enough"? Have them properly aimed. Most of the aftermarket crap blinds on coming drivers.
Watching this as my '16 has mystery water leak too. Sometimes water is filled in the second row seat bolt wells, the last time things got wet was underneath the right second row passenger seat only the carpet. Just a lowly XLT... No sunroof, heated/cooled seats etc. My '04 had a mystery leak...
You sir hit the nail on the head. The key is clean oil and shorter change intervals. I pulled the heads on two engines and at 180,000 the factory cylinder hone was still visible. Zero sluge and deposits in the engine or valve train. Oil and filters are cheep.
I used to own a 2006 Expy and now a 2016. Dump that 3 valve 2006 junk as fast as you can while it still runs and don't look back. The '16 with the Ecoboost is night and day. Keep the oil fresh every 3000 miles regardless of the oil life percent gauge with 5-30 semi synth (turbos like clean oil)...
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